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you have to get an inch pound 1/4 drive to do it exact, multiply 8.7 x 12. I put a 4 inch extension on my 1/4 inch dive ratchet and hold it so the head of the ratchet is in the center of my palm and snug it that way. it limits the torque you can apply and gives you a good feel. I usually find the factory specs on those small bolts uncomfortably tight. I use blue Loctite, tighten them just past snug and make sure they all have even pressure. use a criss cross pattern like lug nuts and do it in stages. I usually do 3 times around. I have had much better luck being leak free with this method than just using factory speck. just be careful and take your time, don't use more energy that it took to loosen them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
i toom the old starter out and the brushes had some wear on them and the bearing was shot. There was also some water on the inside of the starter. Hooked up jumper cables to it and it spun sometimes but not all the time. When you spin the starter by hand you could feel the inside of the starter vibrating. Got a new starter today and it is a little harder to turn by hand than the last one. Going to install it today and see if it fixes the problem.
 

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The EXACT same thing happened to me. I would ride it for a while and it would just die. It would slowly turn over but it wouldn't fire. It was perfect for the like 10 minutes I was riding the thing and then it would just die. Now when I go to see if it will turn over the solenoid just clicks. I've been too busy to tinker around with it.
 

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check all of the grounds and if that does not help pull the plug and see if it makes a difference. one of my yfz just did that and it inded up being the rod bearing
 
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