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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey I just want to make sure I am not missing any grounds:

1. Next to the foward/reverse leaver right side
2. Next to CDI Box
3. On engine directly under Air Box (behind break fluid container)


Any more I don't see?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i don't have the one next to the cdi, but there is the harness ground that attaches to the battery.
Its incorperated with the neg (black) wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Don`t forget the one on the ignition coil in the front.

Ahhh good point. OK I cleaned and sanded all grounds. But I am still poping fuses. The second I turn on the key "POP" goes the fuse. I visually inspected everything, I just cant find this short!!!!!!
 

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So you've got a short somewhere else. Look for a bad hot wire somewhere. There's got to be a broken wire touching the frame, engine, or something else somewhere.
 

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this is a theory i have for finding shorts: the further away you are from the short, the more resistance; the closer, the less resistance. if it is an intermitent short, it could take awhile to find. when you have a short, i find it best to just remove the loom and inspect every wire. make sure you have at least two rolls of electrical tape at hand to put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I started looking for the short but can't find it. Its very fustrating.

I really do not want to take it to Yamaha and pay $180 for them to just look at it.

I can get a new wire harness for $180. Not sure which is the better choose.

There are only three items I have not replaced on the electrical:

Wire Harness 3GD-82590-30-00
Battery Cables 1YW-82115-00-00 / 3GD-82116-00-00
Key Main Switch 4GB-82510-00-00

Well Head lights too but I do not have them plugged in so thats not the short.
 

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did you check you start button and the on/off and lights switch? look inside the cover could be grounding on the handlebars. And you light wires could be grounding out even though the lights aren't plugged in
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I made my kids sit super close to the warrior and watch the area fuse area; while I turned the key on and pressed start. Both kids pointed to the 3GD-81950-01-00 (Starter Relay) saying there was a pop/fizzle sound. I removed the 3GD-81950-01-00 (Starter Relay) and put in a new fuse. Then they said the 29U-81950-93-00 (STARTER CIRCUIT RELAY) popfizzled. So I ordered a wire harness. I just replaced both relays, so I doubt it was them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am pretty sure it it, I will have to check though. Would that make the fuse pop?
 

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shouldn't. is the fuse blowing your only issue? have you removed the covering yet from the harness? if you have, and you found no indications of burned/melted of broken wires, it must be in some appliance. or you have something wired backward. on your connectors make sure the wire on one end, goes to the same colored wire on the other. the underseat relays should click when you turn the key on. popping and sizzling could be from bad contact points in them. have you had someone turn the key on with you listening? it could be a bare wire grounding at the frame right there or in the vicinity.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I guess I should fully explain:

When I purchased this warrior the previous owner told me "There was a small fire back here" as he points to the relay area. One of the relays tips was missing along with about 3 inches of wire.

Also after further investigation I found:
- Previous owner hard wired the fuse (Wrapped tin foil around it) which is what probably caused the fire
- The CDI box was bad (probably from the fuse wrapping as well)
- The Stator was bad (probably from the fuse wrapping as well)

So I purchased a new CDI, STATOR, Voltage regulator, Solenoid, Iginition Coil, fure wire, fuse and both starter relays. And installed all.

I used the diagram in the repair manual that I downloaded from bluetraxx.com to determine the proper placement of the loose wires (there the connector burnt off according to previous owner) and reattached them.

But I still am getting popped fuses. I removed all grounds and sanded them to ensure good connection. I removed most of the wire harness coverning but found little to know issues.


As I am sure you all know the Start relay tip (plastic connector part of the wire harness) is one solid piece of plastic.

My only thought is because one of the start relays tip (connector) is gone i had to use wire connector such as this one on all four wires that go into the relay:




the electricity is arcing between the four connectors I plugged in to Start relay.
 

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do you have an old harness laying around that you won't use? you could relieve a 4 wire connector from it for your warrior, or you could buy the female spades that have the insulation on them.
 

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david mine had done the same thing some time ago, caught on fire in the same spot.
mine was a worn through positive cable! check both positive and negative cables and make sure the insulation isnt damaged somewhere!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I should get my wire harness today.

The only stock electrical items will be Battery Cables, Key Main Switch and start button assembly.

I really hope the shorts (when the fuses popped) did not fry any of my new electrical items. Of course thats the whole point of a fuse, so I should be ok.



I can't wait for this thing to actually run, I've spend a ton of time and $ so far!
 

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i am having this same problem.every time i plug in the rectifier the fuse immedaitly blows.did you ever find out what was the problem.any help will be appriciated
 

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I should get my wire harness today.

The only stock electrical items will be Battery Cables, Key Main Switch and start button assembly.

I really hope the shorts (when the fuses popped) did not fry any of my new electrical items. Of course thats the whole point of a fuse, so I should be ok.



I can't wait for this thing to actually run, I've spend a ton of time and $ so far!

so did u ever find out what was wrong
 
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