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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking I had valves out of adjustment with the noise I was hearing, but they are in spec. I have heard that warrior always make a noise, but I do not recall hearing this before. I think I hear it worse when I hit full throttle, what else could it be? I think the guy before me said he rebuilt the top end.
 

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is it coming from the top end or bottom?

top end it could be cam chain or piston slap or valves outta spec

or it could be crank bearings like mine that finally blew.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will have to look through haynes manual, but how bad is it to check out the cam chain or crank bearings? I already checked valves, that is what I imagine the valves sound like though. I just put bigger main jet in because it needed it and the noise is much louder once it reaches full throttle right now.
 

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Well if its the cam bearings it would prolly make a high pitch kinda noise.

take out the tensioner and see how much life is left in the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was reading that in the book yesterday, but I do not understand this...I can just take the tensioner out and put it back in easily? I will do that after reading the process later. I believe the noise to be the valves, but last time I adjusted them, I tried to go to the higher limits of the adjustment because I have read this creates more power and more noise. And I do think that it is more noisy, but I do not think I like the noise that I hear when it has a second to reach full throttle. The tapity sound turns into a scream. I am looking for the problem because I still have a slight lack of power, I think. I changed my sprockets -1/+2, but still can hardly do a wheelie? thanks for anyhelp
 

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hi not sure what year but i have a 350 warrior a friend brought me to get running did a lots work ta carb but it runs now but it makes a slaping sound cant tell if its in top or bottom end u have taken it apart and checked it over every thing looks good put it back together and still same sound any ideas what it could be
 

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i dont know if it helps, but mine has a valve ticking noise, but after adjusting the valves, i installed the rappy clutch lever, and noticed where my head pipe goes to the back pipe i am missing the exhaust gasket and the head pipe is moving around in the back pipe and making the noise.
 

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Yamaha warrior 350 engine ticking

Hi I just bought my first warrior I've owned a few yamaha I've had an 89 XT 350 dual overhead cam but I'm new to these specific motors. I got it a couple weeks ago and it needed a little bit of work to get running now that I have when I first start it it sounds alright but when I get it up to operating temp it has a loud ticking coming from the side of the engine the timing chain is on I've checked the valves and the timing chain and all seems good. When I changed the oil there was metal in the filter. I could really use some input could my cam lobes be worn the cam bearing seems fine idk. And also when it warms up and u shut it off and start it back up its even louder but then gets a little quieter once the oil gets up there I'm guessing please I could use some help
 

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if i had metal in the oil and a ticking noise that got worse at high speed and worse yet when warm i would check the crank bearing. it sounds like you are on the verge of catastrophe. do you still have the filter? if so check to see if it is aluminum or steel. that may help you decide. you said the timing chain was on is the tensioner working correctly, the chain could be slapping the case.
 

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Hey guys I have a 2000 Yamaha warrior 350 i got the bike in pieces I just got the bike to get spark today butthe bike Will not start. When I turn the motor over gas is shooting out of theback of the carburetor. The carb is brand new as well as the intake. The only thing I could think of is a valve or timing problem but I usually don't work on atvs so I'm no pro.
 

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I will check the filter I never thought to check if it's aluminum or steel thanks. And I checked the tensioner and it seems good it's about 3/4 of the way out maybe and I checked the valves and intake seemed to be in spec and exhaust valve was was a little off but it does sound like it could be intake valve but I can't get a straight answer to what they should be set at
 

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those carbs can be a little tricky, they don't use best material when they build them. I have one that came on my 96 and it has been fine since I changed the jets. I am pretty sure your timing is 180 degrees out. if you don't have a manual download one from the sticky above and recheck your timing. if your timing is correct and you still have the issue do a compression test, if it is low your intake valve may be out of adjustment or bad. could you start a new thread on this, just copy the prior posts to the new thread we hijacked warriors thread and this is a totally different issue.
 

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U guys are all set it's pretty easy to check the timing just take off the plate from the left side of the head two Allen bolts then open the little plug off the stator cover and turn the motor over with a ratchet until you see the top dead center mark and line it up with the hash mark and the marks on the timing chain sprocket marks should line up with the hash marks if it all does your timing should be on I believe all you need to do it is a flat head screw driver a ratchet and 15mm socket and a 5 mm Allen wrench if u have any questions just ask
 

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If it is crank bearings, you obviously need to split the case(and have a flywheel puller, as well as a clutch basket holding tool).
The old bearings will need pressed out of the case halves, and one may stay on the crank itself, that takes a special puller to get off.
The new bearings also must be pressed in. The cases should be lightly heated, hot to the touch only, not enough to damage the aluminum, so not glowing hot.
Put the new bearings in the freezer for 15 minutes or so.
With case half warm and bearing cold, quickly line it up and begin to press it in.
It will go much easier with the temporarily larger opening and smaller bearing.
You can gain .004 to .010" roughly +/- from the heat and cold.

If you do this, there are also a few clips and cheap parts in the clutch and trans that are aviseable to replace on a bottom end rebuild.
 

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Folks,

I have a 95 that I bought from someone, I did a cold compression test only 95, when I try and start it back fires like a SOB. I loosened the values a little bit and made it a little easier to start.
I also have the same concern, I have had many Honda's in my life and only one Yahmaha, and it was a zinger and I was just a child then. Anyways I have like a thud sound coming from either the mid or bottom end, so I was like ok, Ill just buy an entire rebuild kit. Tonight I took the top end off and the crank has no slop at all, but the timing chain guide is all chewed to crap, and the cylenders walls and pistons and all scratched to hell. Could it just be a bad top end ?????
 
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