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So i have a 2001 warrior that has a few issues. First of all it lost spark a few days ago. It will spark once every time you turn the key off and on. I read that it could be the cdi or stator. I put a cheap stator in it today and it still sparks once. I have an earlier model cdi from a parts bike that im going to splice in tomorrow since it has the different harness. Does anyone have any other ideas?

Second problem is that no lights or anything has worked on this bike since i got it. It had spark then and I rigged up the starter button to work and rode it like that. I decided to tackle the wiring when it had no spark so i took the entire harness out and cleaned up the connectors along with getting new relays put in today. I have checked the grounds and ignition switch. When i turn the key a relay clicks now and that is about it. Ive checked the neutral and reverse switches and theyre good. This has me stumped and would the cdi have anything to do with the lights? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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dont bother with the cdi i wont work with the flywheel you have and you will further destroy your harness.
if you jump across the big posts on the solenoid will it start.
you are going to need a manual with a wiring diagram to sort this out. you best bet is to order the paper clymer manual off of ebay for 25 bucks.
there is no short cut to chasing down a no spark issue you have to systematically rule out each component
on a warrior the spark circuit and the crank circuit are totally separate. i would start with chasing down the crank first. when you say the relay clicks are you talking about one of the 2 black boxes on the frame or do you mean the starter solenoid.
that one quick spark that you talk about is pretty common with the cheap ebay cdis but it is not always the case. before you spend any more money test the stator, pickup coils, primary coil, and make sure the orange wire that runs to the primary coil is in good shape. i suspect you old cdi was fine, they do fail but not commonly. 95% of the time no spark on a warrior is the stator or the pick up coil. again dont by one of the cheap ones and again dont buy anything except a manual to do you testing. if you do need a stator use a ricks motorsports or ricky stator. if you rule out everything there is a guy on her, tom bauer. not sure on the spelling and he might even pipe in but he build cdis for these old yamahas
i cant stress enough use the diagram and follow the manual to rule out electrical components. i guarantee even though it feels slow it will be faster and cheaper in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
dont bother with the cdi i wont work with the flywheel you have and you will further destroy your harness.
if you jump across the big posts on the solenoid will it start.
you are going to need a manual with a wiring diagram to sort this out. you best bet is to order the paper clymer manual off of ebay for 25 bucks.
there is no short cut to chasing down a no spark issue you have to systematically rule out each component
on a warrior the spark circuit and the crank circuit are totally separate. i would start with chasing down the crank first. when you say the relay clicks are you talking about one of the 2 black boxes on the frame or do you mean the starter solenoid.
that one quick spark that you talk about is pretty common with the cheap ebay cdis but it is not always the case. before you spend any more money test the stator, pickup coils, primary coil, and make sure the orange wire that runs to the primary coil is in good shape. i suspect you old cdi was fine, they do fail but not commonly. 95% of the time no spark on a warrior is the stator or the pick up coil. again dont by one of the cheap ones and again dont buy anything except a manual to do you testing. if you do need a stator use a ricks motorsports or ricky stator. if you rule out everything there is a guy on her, tom bauer. not sure on the spelling and he might even pipe in but he build cdis for these old yamahas
i cant stress enough use the diagram and follow the manual to rule out electrical components. i guarantee even though it feels slow it will be faster and cheaper in the end.
I checked the cdi boxes i had and they were completely different so i decided against splicing one in. I checked and only one of the relays jump with the key. There is one with a white connecter that jumps but the green one doesnt. Are they the same or are they different. Im pretty confident that the cdi is bad because nothing changed with a different stator and a different coil. When i was turning it over i would use a jumper box directly on the starter because none of the wiring works. The only thing that happens witht the wiring is the one relay jumping. Do you have any clue on where to start. Thanks
 

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one thing i forgot to mention earlier check the key switch wiring to the diagram in the manual i had one that had the quick i spark deal and it turned out the new ebay key switch i installed was wired incorrectly.
one is the start circuit relay and the other is for the neutral switch relay. the relays are exactly the same so you can swap them and see if it makes a difference. there is a procedure in the manual for testing them as well.
swapping stators is not a way of testing anything. unless you are taking it off a machine that is running and has the same generation of electronics you are just wasting time.
i am not trying to be a jerk but i told you exactly where to start and what to do. the componants are the same but each generation of electronics is unique and the specs are different, thats why a proper manual is critical. i guarantee you will save far more than the 25 bucks you spend on the manual order the clymer manual. follow the electrical system trouble shooting algorithm and use the wiring diagram to double check your harness and connections. if the stator, pickup coil, primary coil, both relays and the wiring harness check out within spec then its the cdi. like i said it is rare for it to be the cdi unless you installed a cheap one or one of the aftermarket hop up cdis. there are no published specs for the cdi. the only way to determine it is bad is to rule out everything else. even if it is the cdi something caused it to go bad. I.E. a bad electrical component or short in the wiring or an improper bypass or owner wiring. if you dont test the other things you may ruin your new cdi. i have been repairing small gas engines for 35 years and done more than my share of warriors. if it was in my shop that is exactly what i would do. your other option is just keep buying random parts, emptying your wallet and driving your self nuts.
here is a link to the correct one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clymer-M487-5-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual-Yamaha-Warrior-1987-2004/223530689147?hash=item340b77a27b:g:y6MAAOSwALFc6uxJ
 

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Ok im gonna start to go through the wires and check them. I forgot to mention that when it was running the shut off switch wouldnt completely kill the engine. It would kill it at idle but if you revved the engine up it wouldnt do anything. That would happen if you turned the key off too. I dont know what that would be other than a ground or something. Money is really tight at the moment so im trying to work with what i have and can only really afford the cheap parts. I found a good pdf file of the same manual that you sent the link for. Im gonna use it and start to check all the wires for continuity. Like most warriors the wiring is a bit spliced together so it could be the problem. Thanks for the help
 

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no problem. if you have to buy cheap parts use cal-trec and install them the day you get them they only have a 2 week warranty but are really good about sending out a new on if you get a bad part as long as you are in the 2 week window
 

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Yeah im only getting parts with warranties so i can return them. Im probably going to work on it tonight to see what i can do. What switches should i check and how l. Just to make sure.
 

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What color wires should i check for the key switch and shut off switch. I just got a wiring diagram and checked every wire marking them off as i went through them. Just about everything checked out good but the headlights need new connectors and there was a brown wire that wasnt making the best connection. I fixed it all and i plan to put it back in the bike to check tomorrow. Could a bad cdi mess with the rest of the wiring causing it to not work? Thanks for all the help!
 

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you should have brown red black and black/white on the key switch and black/white and black on the shut off but you should have that on your diagram. it is called the main switch on the diagram. the colors are not as important as making sure each wire is hooked up to the correct poll
did you test all of the other components with a meter
as far as the cdi goes anything is possible, if the cdi was melted and causing a short or something. i have never seen it happen. the cdi controls power when there is no battery or when the machine is running but it is redundant to the battery if there is a battery in it your light should work. i dont remember exactly how those are set up but at the very least they should flicker when you are cranking it. for example yfz headlights only work off of the stator but they flicker when you crank the motor
 

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The key switch checks out because the black and black/white have continuity when off and dont when the key is on. The red and brown do the same but with the key the other way around. The shut off switch has continuity when the switch is off so it is working as well. I am going to check where the small hot wire comes off the main lead and where the ground comes off of its main lead just to rule that one out. Then ill pit the harness back in to see what happens.
 

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I just put the harness back in and i finally got something to work. The tail light works but that is about it. No neutral light. No reverse light. No button start or anything else. Just the tail light. I checked the reverse switch and it has continuity when it is in reverse so i think it is good. It still only sparks once when i jump the solinoid which i am pretty confident is the cdi from what ive read. I have one coming along with a new regulator rectifier. At this point im confused rhat no orher lights work. Im thinking it is rhe clutch switch and the brake switch because the brake switch was borken out of it and is just two wiees and the clutch switch doesnt change continuity when the clutch is in or out. How can i bypass these because im getting annoyed by getting nowhere with the work i put in this thing recently and im trying to rule anything i can out. The small wires rhat come off the leads are making good contact and the neutral and reverse switches change continuity so i dont know what to check next other than wait for my cdi and recifier and see if they cbange anything. Thanks for coming along for this wiring journey lol!
 

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UPDATE. I got the lights to work the neutral and reverse lighs need bulbs but are putting out 12v along with the head lights on low and high beam like they should. I need a new switch cluster though because the starter button is not working and is constantly sending power the solinoid but it wont jump. It is getting 12v to the solinoid so it is a ground issue. The blue/ white wire for ground goes to a relay and i think to the cdi so i think that is the culprit but i got to wait for it to ship. Im cofident the solinoid is good because it work fine before all of this and it could only go bad if it did while i was working on it. Im happy to make progress and ill update you when i get the cdi on to see if it will have spark. Thanks for all of the help so far!
 

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Warriors will not crank without the proper CDI installed and clutch and neutral switch working. (and it must be in forward)
Ground the yellow/black at CDI to bypass this protection circuit and start switch should close starting circuit cut off relay which should engage the starter solenoid.

If that works then the black/yellow or the white/black being grounded should do the same thing through the CDI.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally i have succeeded in my wiring jouney. I got a cdi and it fixed the issue and the quda runs and drives as well as it did before. Now i just need bulbs for the neutral and reverse lights. I found them on ebay for 10 bucks but thats a bit much for some little bulbs. Any ideas for other places to find them?
 
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