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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just replaced the clutch and clutch cable on my warrior and it was fine for about 30 minutes or so and now feels like its slipping again. The clutch did need replaced because the plates were worn down to almost nothing, but I can't figure out why it's doing the same thing before I replaced it. It did t start until after about 30 minutes of riding when it got warmed up. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I replaced the fibers, sleeps and springs. First I had put in regular 10w40 auto oil because I didnt know, which was why I had to replace it to begin with but I drained all that when I replaced the clutch and put in wet clutch oil. As far as I know it was adjusted properly, any insight on that would be great. It was working great for about 30-45 minutes then stated the same thing, could it being out of adjustment burn it up that fast?

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also I was riding it last night trying to adjust the cable and stuff to try and see if that would help and it didn't oh, well I was writing probably 5th or 6th and then all the sudden I lost the year completely and I had to downshift and it did it again same thing downshifted, and I was heading back home I'm like 3rd and I did it again. So I'm thinking I need to replace the clutch again...
 

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my guess is it is out of adjustment. if i remember right there is 2 dots, one on the arm and one on the shaft that goes into the motor. did you line those up? is there free play in the cable? now way should a clutch go out on a stock motor in 30 min. did you presoak the clutch fibers? every thing assembled in the correct order
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I assembled everything as I took it apart so I'm not somebody was in there before me and had done something wrong then you ask everything is together correctly, and yes I did soak the play it's overnight before I even started on it. I guess the only thing I can think of that would be in question is the adjust ment but I've tried and tried and it's still the same, actually I think it's worse now

You dont think it could be something internal? With the basket or something
 

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that assembly is all geared or splined, grinding and skipping is possible but not slipping. go to rocky mtn atv and look at the oem exploded picture of that clutch and make sure its all there and assembled correctly. are the dots lined up and the clutch cable backed off all the way?
here are a couple of you tubes that might help. if everything looks right you will need to pop the cover and inspect the insides. fyi if you tilt the machine up on 2 wheel pretty high you wont have to change your oil again. just curios what oil did you use and what brand of clutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Actually I bought the tusk kit from rocky mountain and watched their video while I was doing it. There's 2 lines on the side of the case, is that what you're talking about? I didnt adjust the arm after I was done, just the cable
 

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i am not sure its been a few years since i did a warrior clutch and i might be thinking of a yfz with the dots. normally there is an index mark of some sort that clocks the arm to the shaft that goes into the motor or some to adjust the free play. so try this take the cable off of the arm and the arm off of the shaft. turn the shaft by hand back and forth. when the shaft moves in the same direction the arm would pull it you should feel the shaft bump up against the pilot bearing and pressure plate. dont let it move. put the arm on now at an angle that looks correct and then attach the cable. you should be able to attach it with out moving the arm or at least have the arm return after the cable is installed. if the arm has to move your cable is too short or possibly routed incorrectly. that is adjusting for free play. i know that is kind of confusing and if it does not make sense i can try to explain it better. you should be able to pull the clutch lever just a little before engaging the pilot bearing to the pressure plate
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I think I have it adjusted correctly as to what you said and it still isn't right, it feels better but still not there. Also I believe the cable is maybe longer than the original, would that have anything to do with it?

I really appreciate all the help, thank you
 

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longer would make it not release and be hard to get into gear, so probably not. one last try before you tear it back apart. are you comfortable shifting with out the clutch? if so disconnect the cable from the arm and depending on how easy your machine starts you can sometimes point it down hill, put it in gear and hit the starter. feather the throttle until it get going and shift up through the gears. if it fixes it you know its an adjustment if not you know its the clutch. if it wont start that way you will have to push it with something else. dont try to pull it you might run them or the rope over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay I will have to try that tomorrow and let you know how it turns out

On another note tho, do you know how to adjust the carbs? It was sputtering a lot and wanting to die out at the higher rpms in the higher gears so I moved the needle 1 notch I think to the richer side and now it idles really high. Also before I did anything it would idle kinda high after it warmed up but not to big of a deal but now it's way worse. So if you could give me any insight to that it would be great. I have a yfz exhaust that the previous owner put on and I took out the air box completely and put a filter straight on the carb
 

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moving the needle should not really effect the idle unless you move it really for or dont get it back in correctly. in a nut shell the pilot jet and air mix screw control idle to 1/4 throttle and the needle and main cover the rest. you need to look at the plug to really tell what going on. if the carb has factory jets i would guess you need to go up a couple on the main and one on the pilot. air mix should start at 2.5 turns out. less than 2 or more than three you need to change the pilot. my guess from you brief description is your carb boot is cracked or the o ring is bad or missing. spray some starter fluid around the carb and boot, move the carb around while you are doing it and see if it revs up. high idle can be caused by lots of things. most often is a vacuum leak, you may need to adjust the idle screw after adjusting the air mix screw, incorrect free play adjustment of the throttle cable can do it to. high speed stutter can be tough, it could be rich or lean or even electrical. figure out what jets you have and if the clip is above or below center on the needle and we can go from there. if you decide it is jetting a good way to go is with a sigma jet kit. they have a calculator, you enter bike, mods and elevation and they send you a kit designed just for you machine. mine came with a pilot above and below there guess for fine tuning. it is not perfect but if you are unfamiliar with jetting it will help you learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The needle is below center because I just moved it and it was in the center when I had pulled it apart, I did notice a rip in the boot but I wasn't sure if that would be a big deal or not I honestly think it might have happened when I was trying to do the carb work, my guess is there was a small rip to begin with and it got larger when I was messing with the carb. The main jet is a 1.45? Or 1.25? I can't remember, it's the biggest jet that cam with the carb and there were 2 smaller ones as well, also the idle screw is all the way out so I'm thinking its gotta be jetting. To me it seems kinda lean because if you stab the throttle it will like cut out and then come back but if you get on the fast normally it's fine
 

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if that carb boot is bad that is for sure your problem or at least a problem. you cant begin to address any other carb issues until that is fixed. 145 is the stock main on that and likely too lean with your mods but again you have to replace the boot first. dont be tempted by the aftermarket ones they dont last. oem only on the boot. also dont run it too much until you get the boot replaced, lean condition build more heat and you can melt your motor. a little testing here and there is fine but dont go for a ride. 42.5 is the stock pilot fyi
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay cool thanks, do you think I should just get a jet kit for it? Or get a boot to start and go from there. Yeah I've been itching to really go for a ride since it's been done for 2 weeks lol. But it still needs fine tuning, with the clutch and carb
 

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The warrior clutch pack is thin, if the pressure plate worn, it will slip even with a new clutch. Put an extra steel plate anywhere in the middle of the clutch pack. The extra steel will take up more room and keep the clutch from slipping and allow you to get more useful life from your clutch fibers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay so do I go 2 steel plates in a row? And could I use one of the plates? Or do I have to buy another pack
 
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