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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm new to the forums but I own a 2001 Yamaha warrior 350. Bought it for a good price last year, gave me a bunch of problems since I've owned it. I replaced the one way bearing, stator, cdi, battery and the list goes on. So the last time I rode it, it broke down. I checked the timing and sure enough it jumped timing. I took the head off , the exhaust valve came down and hit the piston. The question is can I replace the timing chain get the head reworked and out it back together? does anyone think that I could have damaged the crank or twisted a rod? the piston looks good other then the dent from where the valve hit. Thanks I'm advance 馃嵒
 

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see if there is any slop in the bearing is about all you can do with out a tear down. crank damage is always possible but doesn't sound like you hit to hard and are probably ok. the only way to know for sure is tear it down
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I totally want to avoid the teardown and rebuild. I figured I bent a valve at least. I'm going to bring the head to the stealer to make sure that's ok since it's already apart.then order a new chain, will I need to replace the guides? Also to change the chain do I just have to remove head, magneto, and flywheel then I should be able to fish it out and down or is it more complicated than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So here's an update to my issue, I Got the head back from the dealership they replaced the valves, guides, springs and cleaned it up well for me. The head was already off so I proceeded to take the the stator/flywheel timing chain off. I noticed the woodruff key was broken in two pieces. Im not a mechanic but I know that's not right, I managed to take the pieces out and cleaned it up well. Everything else looks ok, I bought a new one on eBay right away. Does anyone know why that would have broke? Is there any way I can fix this and make sure it doesn't happen again? I will do some research on the forum but if anyone could help me with issue it would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did a little researching on the keway breaking, I found a video on YouTube for fixing the rough burrs around the crank. The guy used valve grinding compound and smoothed it onto the crank, spun the flywheel on the crank without the keyway for about a minute or so. Has anyone used this method before? I'm planning on doing this if it is worth it, the guy in the video said this should repair it for good and will not have to worry about that damn keyway. What do you guys think ?

This is the link I was talking about
 

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Start with a fine file and use a motion that moves the file around the crank as it cuts. You don't want any flat spots but it must be smooth and round with the same taper. Use fine sandpaper to remove any rough spots in flywheel. When you put the flywheel on without the key you want it to 'stick' to the crank and feel like it grabs it. You can use some valve lapping compound to mate the two together. Make sure you have a real Yamaha key, NOT one from ebay, many of them are not steel. They are just cheap cast material and will just break. Loose flywheel bolt and bad starter clutch is why they break. Torque the bolt down properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the warrior all back together, changed the oil and it started right up! Just it didn't work with the start button, I had to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. I had a brand new solenoid in the garage, installed it and still not working. Another thing, it seems like I lost a bolt somehow. The bolt sits in between the two allen head bolts in the head. Bolt goes down through the head all the way into the left side crank case. When the bike started there was oil coming out of that hole obviously. I looked on a diagram to match up the bolt but I could not find the bolt in any diagram. Does anyone know the size and pitch of that bolt, and anything about the start button. 馃嵒
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I ended up using the file and sandpaper to take the burrs out of the crank, got an oem woodruff key and just made sure it was on all the way. Gave it a couple of taps with the hammer and socket for reinsurance and the flywheel was on tight with no play in any direction. I also used a little red locktite on both the crank bolt and can bolt torqued them both to 45 ft/pound.
 

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Older bikes have to be in neutral or clutch pulled in and maybe in forward for starter to work. This used to have the electronics in the CDI. And kill switch had to be in run position. Look at your year wiring diagram and this may make sense to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know that, the bike was in neutral and the killswitch was on run. Like I said it started right up when I jumped the solenoid. I did notice that one of the relays behind the solenoid has a big crack in it and was loaded up with dirt. I was looking online and I'm pretty sure one is for the start solenoid and the other is like a neutral safety or something .. idk exactly, anyways I ordered both of them off eBay for about 15 bucks just because they look like 馃挬. I'm thinking it's either that relay or maybe a broken wire in between the start button and the solenoid. My main concern right now is that bolt going through the head to the crankcase. I'd like to match it up at the hardware store today after work. Would you know the size and pitch of that by any chance?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
She ran great for about 20 minutes lol! I found the bolt I was looking for, had her idling for a few minutes then shuts off. No spark at all. I checked the stator resistance, the red and white wire was 404 ohms the green and brown wire was 394 ohms and the white three wires were .8 ohms.i am assuming it is the cdi since this same issue happened a few months ago and I replaced it with an eBay cheapo one. Should I check anything else before purchasing a cdi and what brands do you recommend? Thanks for all the help fellas 馃嵒
 

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Discussion Starter #14
An update to my issue, the bike is fixed and working correctly. I purchased a used CDI box that came off of a 99 warrior, also I replaced the two relays and now it starts right up with the start button. I hope this helps someone, good luck!
 

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I make CDIs and they come with a 10 year wtty. Think about that the next time you need one, after buying a couple used ones you could have one that will never fail. Better quality than even the OEM. new cdi for yamaha
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Very good, I will keep that in mind. I would of bought yours if I knew, for sure.
 
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