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Parking brake elimination

95K views 60 replies 39 participants last post by  cory52000 
#1 ·
As soon as I get my bike started, I am going to get rid of the parking brake. All I have to do is remove the wires and then plug the two at the handlebars together and block something off at the rear caliper...right?

John
 
#57 ·
Thanks man but I am trying to install my ASV aftermarket clutch perch and brake lever. But there is something stopping me, idk what I'm doing, and everything is still stock. It's a 98 Warrior 350. I want to remove the parking brake. There's already a block off installed, but the stock perch still has all the wires from the parking brake (and clutch cable) connected. Also, have a new clutch cable trying to install as well. What's my next step or few steps toward getting this achieved ?? Kinda lost here man and I don't wanna mess up my wire harness.
 
#58 ·
if it has a block off the parking brake wires you need to worry about are probably unplugged anyway. either way it is very simple.
1 remove the front plastic
2 follow the wires out of the parking brake down to the connector and simply unplug it
3 follow the wires out of the clutch perch, you will find 2 bullet style connectors. there will be a male and female connector on both side of the connection. take the male connector from the harness side and plug it into the female connector on the harness side and you are good to go.

be careful after bypassing the clutch switch because you machine will start in gear now. plugging the 2 connectors together trick the machine into thinking the clutch is pulled in all the time. there is no way to mess up the harness but if you dont get the wires connected correctly the machine will only start in neutral. the clutch cable is pretty simple. shorten the inline adjuster in the cable as much as possible, line up the screw and adjuster nut and remove the cable from the perch, unhook the other end and reinstall. you will need to adjust the clutch cable free play after installing the new cable and perch.

i suggest you download the manual in the sticky above and read the section on replacing the clutch cable and adjusting the clutch if you have never done it before. if you are new to this type of work and want to keep your machine in top condition i suggest spending the 30 bucks and ordering the clymer paper manual . it will make you machine last longer and be more dependable. let me know if you need anything else
 
#59 ·
Alright, to be clear there is a block off plate on the rear , I unplugged the parking brake cable bullet connections and plugged the two from the wire harness together. However, when I try to start it up in neutral regularly the quad doesn’t idle anymore, but revs just fine. It just dies out ..What have I done wrong ? The asv perch is installed properly along with new clutch cable. ALSO, I can’t seem to find the white cable connect that needs to be simply unplugged ...:| My wire harness is covered in electrical tape at the base . Should I try to remove the tape and look for the white connector wires there and tape it back up. Only wires coming from harness are key ignition , starter cable, the two bullet connector I plugged into each other, and other misc wires grounded to front frame but no white connector to unplug ..?? It was running fine before the removal of the parking brake cable, just with slight rev limiting in certain gears like 3rd or 4th sometimes in 2nd.. any ideas of what’s going on ?
 
#60 ·
It sounds like you did the delete correct. I would be suspicious of something else going on. I would darn sure untape the harness and inspect. any moisture on open connections can cause intermittent problems.
 
#61 ·
like digger said you did the delete correctly but it sounds like you are confused as to what you did. the bullet connectors, black and black/yellow are the wires to the clutch switch and you did that correctly. there is now way that can effect the idle circuit. all the bypass does is bypass the switch that was in the old clutch perch and makes the cdi think the clutch lever is pulled.

i am not sure where you got that you were looking for a white wire on the parking brake. the actual connector may be white but i am almost positive its grey but its been a while since i deleted a warrior. the parking brake wires are black and green/yellow. i would be very surprised if someone had installed the brake block off and had not unplugged the parking brake wires but it is possible. in either case it would not cause your idle issues. the parking brake switch is a normally open switch (that is why you can just unplug it) and when you apply the parking brake it activates the rev limiter in the cdi to keep you from trying to drive with the brake on. so if the switch was shorted or grounded from doing something wrong the machine would start and idle but would not rev up, opposite of your issue. try to track down the proper wires and unplug them if they are not already but i am confident that is not your problem

now for the bad news there is a ton of things that can cause your issue. like digger said warriors are notorious for bad wiring and you may have to pull the harness and inspect and repair it but that is a pretty big job and i would check some things first. here is a list of common warrior problems in the order i would check them. my gut says you have developed a carb problem.

1 check all of the grounds and connections. make sure the grounds are clean and tight and use dielectric grease in all the connections to insure a good contact

2 find the green wire on the reverse shifter and remove it from the little plug, cut the end off of it (leave enough room on the plug side to reattach it if needed) replace the little boot with an eye and ground that wire under one of the mounting bolts for the shifter. make sure you remove some paint so it grounds well. i honestly dont know exactly what this does but i had to do it on all 3 of my warriors to get them to run correctly. it has something to do with making sure you dont shift into reverse to fast but i have never been able to figure out exactly how it works.

3 follow the instruction in the manual and check the stator and pickup coils on a warrior that old it is not a matter of if but when the stator goes out and it can cause issues similar to yours. while you have your meter out check the primary coil as well

4 i dont know what your skill level is but if it was me next i would run a tank with the proper ratio of seafoam and gas through it and see if that made a difference. if that did not clean things up i would dissemble and clean the carb and install a carb kit when i did it. if you do install a carb kit make sure you use the same size main jet.

5 if you still have the issue the next thing i would do is inspect the entire harness. this is a big job and is not much fun but i may need done. i had to do it on 2 of my 3. if the problem turns out to be some sort of electrical demon it will be difficult to track down if you are not 100% confident you dont have a short somewhere.

like i said if i had to make a bet on it it would be carb problems and i am confident unless you displaced or unplugged something else it is not from the work you did. one other really slim possibility is you idle speed screw was not adjusted properly and someone set the idle with the throttle cable (if you tighten the throttle cable too much it will raise the idle) and when you were under the hood you moved the cable enough to effect the idle speed. try just turning up the idle some and see if it helps.
 
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