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350 Warrior Missing issue

This issue seems to be the fix a lot of people have been looking for "Warrior missing issue"..... runs great till you try full throttle starts to sputter, miss, backfire..ect. Been down the carb. jetting ..float adjustment...clean out...but did not solve the issue. Sure seemed as carb issue but this makes sense to try, I think eliminated the carb as the culprit.... I have had the bike along time it has been missing since I got it.
So I'm going see if I can get it to stop missing with the above fix ....
If it fixes it. I'll post pictures.......
Anymore tips on the fixes would be appreciated???
 

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Hey digger, do you ever feel like your repeating yourself?
Hey digger, do you ever feel like your repeating yourself?
Hey digger, do you ever feel like your repeating yourself?
Hey digger, do you ever feel like your repeating yourself?
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::roll:
 

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Oh Sometimes.









Sometimes...
 

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Add me to the list of people that this mod has helped...I had a 96 Warrior that has not been run consistently for nearly 10 years...rebuilt the carb, fought issues with backfires, chased what I thought was jetting issues and then found this...took 5 minutes, fired it up and idles just like it used to!
 

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My '87 runs the same with the wires bypassed or unplugged? Like crap. I just installed an aftermarket stator. Was very hard to start, timing advanced a lot. But, it ran amazing! I took the pickup coils and flipped them, and starts good, but runs like crap.
 

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I would run tests real quick. Check the spark plug boot and put a new plug in it.
 

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I have a quick question, for my 87 i removed the stock clutch perch and installed a dirtbike perch so my question is do i need to do anything with the clutch safety switch? When i purchased the quad the prev owner installed a different clutch lever so the e-brake was no functional, i now have the clutch safety switch zip ty'd to the bars as i didnt want to cut any wires unless need be. The quad runs just as it did with the stock perch but should i splice the wires together on the clutch safety switch?
 

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95 warrior 350 stuck on limiter please help!!

95 warrior 350 new stator new pick up coil new ignition coil new plug now wont rev past an idle sounds like a limiter and doesn't change in gear in neutral or reverse. before I get the cdi is there anything else? clutch switch plugged into it self on harness threw away broken switch. don't see any wires for park brake switch or anything:shrug::no: WTFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Make sure the reverse wire on the reverse shifter isn't loose or broken.
 

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Old thread

I realize this is an really old and redundant thread but damn if it didn't solve all my issues. Total design flaw but if you follow the steps my quad at least runs better than when I bought it!
 

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tell me what you need and i will walk you through it. i am not sure what diagram you are looking for. i wont be home until Wednesday though
 

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tell me what you need and i will walk you through it. i am not sure what diagram you are looking for. i wont be home until Wednesday though
Thanks man but I am trying to install my ASV aftermarket clutch perch and brake lever. But there is something stopping me, idk what I'm doing, and everything is still stock. It's a 98 Warrior 350. I want to remove the parking brake. There's already a block off installed, but the stock perch still has all the wires from the parking brake (and clutch cable) connected. Also, have a new clutch cable trying to install as well. What's my next step or few steps toward getting this achieved ?? Kinda lost here man and I don't wanna mess up my wire harness.
 

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if it has a block off the parking brake wires you need to worry about are probably unplugged anyway. either way it is very simple.
1 remove the front plastic
2 follow the wires out of the parking brake down to the connector and simply unplug it
3 follow the wires out of the clutch perch, you will find 2 bullet style connectors. there will be a male and female connector on both side of the connection. take the male connector from the harness side and plug it into the female connector on the harness side and you are good to go.

be careful after bypassing the clutch switch because you machine will start in gear now. plugging the 2 connectors together trick the machine into thinking the clutch is pulled in all the time. there is no way to mess up the harness but if you dont get the wires connected correctly the machine will only start in neutral. the clutch cable is pretty simple. shorten the inline adjuster in the cable as much as possible, line up the screw and adjuster nut and remove the cable from the perch, unhook the other end and reinstall. you will need to adjust the clutch cable free play after installing the new cable and perch.

i suggest you download the manual in the sticky above and read the section on replacing the clutch cable and adjusting the clutch if you have never done it before. if you are new to this type of work and want to keep your machine in top condition i suggest spending the 30 bucks and ordering the clymer paper manual . it will make you machine last longer and be more dependable. let me know if you need anything else
 

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if it has a block off the parking brake wires you need to worry about are probably unplugged anyway. either way it is very simple.
1 remove the front plastic
2 follow the wires out of the parking brake down to the connector and simply unplug it
3 follow the wires out of the clutch perch, you will find 2 bullet style connectors. there will be a male and female connector on both side of the connection. take the male connector from the harness side and plug it into the female connector on the harness side and you are good to go.

be careful after bypassing the clutch switch because you machine will start in gear now. plugging the 2 connectors together trick the machine into thinking the clutch is pulled in all the time. there is no way to mess up the harness but if you dont get the wires connected correctly the machine will only start in neutral. the clutch cable is pretty simple. shorten the inline adjuster in the cable as much as possible, line up the screw and adjuster nut and remove the cable from the perch, unhook the other end and reinstall. you will need to adjust the clutch cable free play after installing the new cable and perch.

i suggest you download the manual in the sticky above and read the section on replacing the clutch cable and adjusting the clutch if you have never done it before. if you are new to this type of work and want to keep your machine in top condition i suggest spending the 30 bucks and ordering the clymer paper manual . it will make you machine last longer and be more dependable. let me know if you need anything else
Alright, to be clear there is a block off plate on the rear , I unplugged the parking brake cable bullet connections and plugged the two from the wire harness together. However, when I try to start it up in neutral regularly the quad doesn’t idle anymore, but revs just fine. It just dies out ..What have I done wrong ? The asv perch is installed properly along with new clutch cable. ALSO, I can’t seem to find the white cable connect that needs to be simply unplugged ...:| My wire harness is covered in electrical tape at the base . Should I try to remove the tape and look for the white connector wires there and tape it back up. Only wires coming from harness are key ignition , starter cable, the two bullet connector I plugged into each other, and other misc wires grounded to front frame but no white connector to unplug ..?? It was running fine before the removal of the parking brake cable, just with slight rev limiting in certain gears like 3rd or 4th sometimes in 2nd.. any ideas of what’s going on ?
 

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It sounds like you did the delete correct. I would be suspicious of something else going on. I would darn sure untape the harness and inspect. any moisture on open connections can cause intermittent problems.
 
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