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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, so I installed my stage 1 Hot Cam in my Raptor today. Followed Hotcams/Clymer manual/RaptorTranny.coms directions and everything went smoothly, untill....

I fired it up. I meen it started fine, and idles fine/revs fine, but there is MAJOR valve chatter. Did I do something wrong? I set them at .20 intake, .25 exhaust per Hot Cam's recomedation and I stayed above 3,000 RPM for about 2 minutes in netraul then rode it around a bit like Hot Cam says too, but the engine is way noisier than stock. After this I rechecked/adjusted the valves again, as they were out of spec after break in(loose), and I put them back to recomendation, even just a tad bit tighter, and now there is less noise, but still way louder than stock. It is like a real fast tap tap tap noise.

Is there more noise with an aftermarket cam?

How much more noise?

Hopefully I can get a real ride in tomorow, not just up and down my driveway.
 

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I'll bet you used a feeler gauge that measures thousandths of an inch instead of millimeters. .020" is way too much lash, the book only calls for .15mm if I remember correctly.

You should use .006" (inches) on the intake and .008" on the exhaust. :tup: Check them every 20 hours when you change the oil and you won't have any trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is probally my problem. Thanks so much UBETRUN, looks like tomorow will be re-adjusting valves for the third time/change air fiter time/ change oil and oil filter time.

Should there be like no noise at all like stock with the HotCams?
 

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RaptorRacer888 said:
That is probally my problem. Thanks so much UBETRUN, looks like tomorow will be re-adjusting valves for the third time/change air fiter time/ change oil and oil filter time.

Should there be like no noise at all like stock with the HotCams?
no .. there will be some noise .. but it shouldnt be as bad as what u are having.
 

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Make sure your decompression pin is not 180 degress out. I have seen it happen when installing a camshaft.It will hold the valve open and could cause damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Im pretty sure its not, but what do you meen by 180 degrees out?

When I turn the motor counterclock wise everything looks like its right. I meen the rocker arms go up and down, and the valves get like really tight, then you go back aroudn again and line up the "I" and then you set them to clearence.

It start fine, idles fine, it just chatters really bad, so Im going to re adjust the valves again tomorow when I get home from school. Im sure that UBETRUN had the right idea, about how I used inch instead of milimeters or whatever. I will update everyone tomorow night after I adjust the valves again. Hopefully I did not f*ck anything up when I went up and down my driveway twice with them loose like that.

O another mess up that I forgot to mention earlier. When I went to check clearence the second time, I found the exhaust valve bolt thing, that holds the clearence adjuster loose. It was only on by like 3/4 a thread. I was like :scared: .
 

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The first time I adjusted my Raptor's valves, I used the wrong measurement too. It didn't hurt anything but it sure did rattle. I posted a question on this forum and someone steered me in the right direction. I hope that your problem is as easy to fix.
 

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A report about the difference in power of the Hot Cam would be nice too, once everything gets straightened out. :nod:
 

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You really need to check your decompression pin the dot on the end needs to be up when you are at TDC. You will have to remove the head cover. And you are supposed to use Hotcams valve lash specs, they are loose because the cam is billet and it will expand at high RPMS.

I really recomend checking this, I didn't after I installed my hotcam, and it dropped a valve, now have a new top end.
 

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rookie said:
You really need to check your decompression pin the dot on the end needs to be up when you are at TDC. You will have to remove the head cover. And you are supposed to use Hotcams valve lash specs, they are loose because the cam is billet and it will expand at high RPMS.

I really recomend checking this, I didn't after I installed my hotcam, and it dropped a valve, now have a new top end.

Billet doesn't expand at high RPM's .. it's a dense material and expands when heated, generally the more dense it is, the more it will expand (their are exceptions to this rule), but the speed of rotation has NOTHING to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok you guys got me all scared now.

What exactly are you stating by saying 180 degrees out?

Like when I installed the thing that goes into the center of the Hot Cam, it popped into place with the spring and that little pin. The center thing would spin back and forth and you could basically point the little dot anywhere. And I think once it went past a certain part, it shoots out the little pin.( I had to find it)

I looked in my Clymer manual, and they had a picture of a Cam with everything installed showing what it should look like, and mine basically mimicked what the book had shown.

If this helps, I also have about 30 minutes on the hot cam. 20 bieng break in, and another 10 today when I readjusted valves and changed oil today. Would it already have failed by now with 30 minutes on it? Like what Im trying to say is, if asembled not correctly, how long will it last?

I don't want to take it all apart again just to find out that it was fine.

Can some of you guys explain like some syptons of havin it 180 out, I readjusted my valves and there still a little bit noisey, is this a sign??

There not as bad as before, but there still just a tad bit noisier then stock.

Lastly, thanks you guys for helping me out :tup: , hopefully I can help you guys out with information one day when I get more knowledge.
 

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How does the power feel? If it is 180 out then you will have a power loss.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will check here in few minutes but the power feels simular to stock if not better. I think it all good. If not then I guess I will learn the hard way, and upgrade to a 686 or something.

Once again thanks everyone, I will give report when I get back in from riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just got in from riding some :))

Im not going to lie and say it was the biggest difference ever, but it did make a improvement. I rode it mostly in my trails and it does great, I think the biggest difference is when you go through all the gears though.
It almost makes you get through the gear faster, the way the revs build. Deffantly a top end/mid range increase, did not loose any bottom though. Maybe even gained a little bottom, but hard to tell at the moment.

Did notice the valves while riding in low RPM's, not as bad as first adjustment, but you can tell that they are adjusted for more clearence then stock. Once your in the high RPM's it seems to go away, from either the exhaust bieng louder and droaning it out, or everything going by in a blurr draws you attention elsewhere maybe.

All in all I think it was worth it. I also think that it is installed right, cause I have about a hour on it now, and everything is fine.

One last question though, maybe it is a sign that something is wroung, but before the Hotcam, Im pretty sure when I let off the gas when going down a hill it did not like pop pop pop, but now with the hot cam it does.

Is this ok? I think it is just a lean condition, or maybe it even did it before the cam, and I just did not notice it.
 

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A decelleration pop/pop/pop is a lean condition with the air screw or pilot jet.

I had a months worth of riding on my bike with cam decompression 180* out :scared: I did not know anything was wrong, except noisy valves. When you installed the decompression on the new hot cams, did you make sure that the pin went inside the cam when you move the weights on the sproket? If so GOOD :tup: My weights are the sprokets moved like the manual says, but the pin did not go inside the cam. After my bike broke I found the problem.
 

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damn thats my problem my valves are exstreamly loud but i never thought to check if i had a mm or inch filer gauge :scared: i will check mine as soon as i unload it.
 

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Wouldn't the quad be hard to start if the decompression mechanism wasn't working correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No UBETRUN it started fine when my decompression pin was 180 out. Only thing to tell is exxecesive exhaust vavle tap.

By the way, I tore it back down tonight you guys, and I indeed had it 180 out. But I put it back together already and started it and the vavle tap is gone. Revs way smoother/linear now as well. Im so happy this is awesome.

Thanks you all so much, I finally have it running good now. All I got to do tomorow is put back on the top engine mount, tank, front plastic and im good to go. Once again though thanks, you guys saved me a lot of time/money.

By the way, Ill have pictures tomorow too.
 
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