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Discussion Starter #1
ok iv decided on ITPs holeshot and need to pick a size ...i ride in MX type conditions whoops, good sized doubles and singles, ect... and i ride with a rappy some dirtbikes and my bros suziki 250 so the ruts are really deep in the turns (REALLY sandy) like so deep if i slow down ill be siting on my frame and rear skid plate but thats only because i have 20 rears...but the track is gonna be rearanged so that hopefuly wont be anymore of an issue ...anyways the chocies are 19,20,22,23 sizes...first what is the size of the stock front tire/rim?? ..im leaning toward the 19s would that be ok or you think the ruts would be too deep ...what is the pros and cons of having a biger front tire V.S. a smaller one ...how much of a diffrence in handling is their between them ect...thanks guys
 

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The stock size is 22x7x10. If your worried about the ruts I would go with a 22. I run 21's without a problem. But from the size's you listed there isn't a 21. It's really all in personal preference. Smaller tires are lighter and easier to turn. Hope this helps :tup:
 

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i love my 23's... but then again i dont MX at all just trail... and some pretty technical trails at that. so the 23 f 22 r really helps
 

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If you're JUST gonna MX, get the 19s. If you want to try ride too, go bigger. But the bigger you go, the more tippy it's gonna be when you do MX. Personally, i wouldn't go over a 20. That's what I'm running on mine, but the only reason I didn't get 19s was because I got a deal on these with the wheels they were on. For racing, shorter is better.

If the ruts at your track are that deep, the owner needs to be doing something different. If it's just because of a lot of bikes, then pick a different line through the corner so you don't get hung up. A little trick...if you go in hard and hook your inside front tire in the rut, you can lock up the rear and flick the front end the opposite way of the turn for a split second and it will help kick the rear end out and make the turn faster. It may sound weird, and I may not be saying it like I mean it, but trust me, it works.
 

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Nawoj, what's that supposed to mean exactly? Are you confused? Do I amuse you?
 

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I have seen Guys at mx with 19fronts + 18rears the mx track was also very sandy, dirt. They seem to be ok for the first 2 & 3 races then they start to bottom out on the corners. I agree with Warrior13 just pick a different line or just hit the corner harder so it will help you get threw. The lower the bike the lower of centre of gravity which will help you go around the corners faster & you will feel more confadent at higher speeds.Hope this helps. :)) :))
 

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do you not see the humor in that statement?

im not trying to offend you or call you an idiot...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks alot guys i think ill get the 19s....but its gonna be alot longer then i intended i gotta get new sprockets and chain and im goin all out so its gonna be like 200$+ ...so.... :tdown: :( ...ohh well mantinance first....sigh

nawoj... i dont get it :shrug:

thanks alot guys ...and thanks num #13 ill try that ...sounds complicated but theirs only one way to learn
 

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I takes some time to get where you can do it well, but once you get the hang of it, it REALLY works. You've heard the expression 'cornering like it's on rails'...it's the same idea. But more than making for a quick turn, it's making the best out of a corner that's not that great. When you run with a lot of bikes, the corners will get rutted, and there will be a lot of guys on quads that will tiptoe through. If you can get good at hooking that inside tire and railing through the corner, you will have a HUGE advantage. It's just hard to explain in words how to do it...you have to lean a lot of course, but you have to catch the edge of the rut just so. It's a matter of feel...just takes practice.
 

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I took my swinger skid right off I used to get hung up on ruts from the bikes and bigger wheelers at my local sandy track.I run 20" Klaws on my fronts they work just fine and it corners better with the smaller tires id go 20 or 19 but 19 almost seems to small for me...oh well i think its all just preference
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i went riding again today at my track...basicly 15 acers of woods that were clearing out in to a track...but we cant do too much un till the buildings built (decemberish hopefuly) because the city will get on our ass and we cleared out more with the backhoe and put up a nice jump (6ft tall) and i went to jump it a couple of times and its WAY too steap ...if i hit it like i usualy do then ill hit really had on the landing with the front up and couple of times my foot slipped .to make a long story short im geting nurfs and a sprocket and filter/clamp/jet befor i can get tires so ....(not including shocks and aarms)...so who knows how long untill i get em...my arms still feels like its sprained from landing on its side ...lol it was so fun :lol: ..anyways thanks guys...when ever i get to geting new fronts ill probably get 20s or 19s depedning ...
 

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If you haen't got a landing jump, then it's gonna be hard. Notice when you watch races that guys will jump just fast enough thtat they land on the down side of the landing jump. They don't overjump[ it, cuz the suspensions not made to take it, and it's a lot harder on the quad AND the rider, as you found out :) Practice, practice, practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no it does have a landing jump its just really steap....its almost going straight up and down on both sides...like when i was doing it i figured after i rode on if a couple times it would just pack it down and it be fine but i guess i was wrong...the first couple of jumps i made they were just kinda big suden hills and after jumping it 15 times or so it wasnt worth anything cuz it would wear it down...so i figured if i could make it flat on top (4-6ft across right now i think) and angled on both sides it would take alot longer to wear it away because u have 4-6ft in the middle ...lol i think i explained my situation (looks kinda like this.../[[|]]\....) ...im just gonna have to take a shuvel and rake and make the take off alittle less virticul so that i can land alot more easily with all four wheels on the ground :lol:

works with rezies should help alot too right (with the landings and what not...) when choosing my rider type and terain i put it threw what should i put...motocross? intermidet racer (sorry i cant spell and im pretty sure thoughs are some of the chosies) thanks guys
 

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That kind of jump is called a table top (for obvious reasons). Make the downside pretty long so it gives lots of landing room. The angle on the landing side is not NEARLY as critical as the angle on the takeoff side. Just remember, the angle that works for your quad may not work as well for the bikes or other quads.

The Works with rezzies will help, yes, but even they aren't meant for landing on the flat. You always want to land on the down slope, even if it means slowing down slightly so you don't overjump it. Slowing downa bit and landing on the downside will still be faster than going fast and landing flat. I know it sounds backwards, but if you land on the flat, that moment when you bottom out and kind-of go 'ooof' is just long enough to kill your momentum, and if you'd landed on the downside, you'd have gone past.

When you order your shocks, tell them motocross. At worst, they'll be a little stiff for trailriding, but that's infinitely better than having them perfect for trailriding, 'cuz then they will be WAY soft on the MX track. As for intermediate...well...no offense, but I dunno if I'd go that far. I told them that I'm a C-class rider, B class on my best days. I'm usually running at he front or close to it in the 0-350 4 Stroke class, and a kid that I swap places back and forth with week in and out when we race together just WON the 0-300 class at Loretta Lynn's National. I'm pretty comfy with doubles up to about 35 or 40 feet. The faster or better of a rider you tell them you are, the bigger the stuff they figure you'll be jumping, and the stiffer the shocks will be built to compensate for it. There's really no reason to pump yourself up to the guys at Works (I'm not saying you are at all...just saying) 'cuz they don't care. They want you to have the absolute best shocks for your purposes, and the best way for them to be able to do that is to know exactly who they're building them for.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
table tops..right i couldnt remember what it was called i wanted to say platue or something lol who knows..anyways yeah its gona be smoothed out...

about the works yeah i didnt know where to put me.... there were like 3 other classes above that so i didnt know...i dont care to say im more than im not...your a better rider if not alot better im sure.. im not gona be jumping TOO big V.S. having alot whoops and rough fast trail type riding ...so ill prob just talk to them on the phone about what they think would be better for what im gonna be doin..

P.S..iv been looking at the break lines and i cant see how 3+ aarms are gonna still alow them to work :wtf: ...are break lines worth the extra break power to get.. if the aarms still alow them to fit?

thanks ALOT #13 like always
 

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18's for mx racing....... the bigger the tire the more top end the smaller the faster take off , for trails i dunno its up in the air depends how much ground clearance u want but for mx i wouldnt go bigger then a 20inch , mx with a raptor, besides the fact fact u picked the wrong machine , lower it [ stock raptor is a bit tippy , sits 2 hi compared to other bikes ] change the gearing , anything that will give it more pep during launch
i can think of 1500 more mods to do to a stock raptor to make it race ready just dont feel like listing them all
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i was talking about my warrior and the front tire dosnt determin how much top end or accseleration it has but thanks any ways :roll:
 

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When I ordered my Wicked arms, they swore that my stock brake lines would work, but like you, I couldn't see how. So I ordered some braided +3s lines. The biggest advantage of the braided lines is that they don't swell under pressure. The stock rubber lines, when you squeeze the lever and the piston goes out, the line starts to swell a little bit. It's not so much that you can see it, but it does affect braking. With the braided lines, the braiding prevents the line from swelling at all, so you get a lot more positive brake feel. I only wish that I had gone ahead and gotten a complete kit to replace my rear lines too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
...then i guess ill get them too...this is kinda stupid but i just wonta make sure about the shocks i know the aarms are gonna be set up for stock sized shocks but from gopartsdirect (where im buying the works) you pick the sized aarms...and at first i figured 3+ but then i figured it should be stock aarm......even though im geting 3+ (not long travel).....idk..i should pick stock aarms right even though im goin to get 3+ wickeds?
 
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