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Discussion Starter #1
hello there , for my B-day my father bough me a blaster years 2000 with oil injection (he is financing me) and I have severral questions...

1- chaine is slack , do i need a new one? or a sprocket?

2- my bro have a 250r and he said to cut the oil injection... whats the best?

3- i live canada Quebec and the winter here are COLD Freacking cold!!! so my bro also said that the Jet must be ajuste for the winter, is it hard ? what is consist of?

4- its not new , so i was wondering what thing is a MUST to do before i go and ride it in the wood?

5- my fking bro also said that the rear bearing seems to be old and have to be repair, I want some info where can i buy my Blaster parts ? Less expensif if possible...

6- the break system is original , well all of this blaster is original so what should i do or buy to make this baby break Alot!!!? :bk:

Im new in this forum and i know that my english is not perfect , sorry...
I would realy apreciate if someone anwser all of my question , Thanks!!! :))
 

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Discussion Starter #2
sorry about the 2nd question lol i forgot to say my question , its should i take of the oil injection fonction and put mix gas???
 

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Ok first off, welcome to BT :)
I will answer these as best I can.

1- chaine is slack , do i need a new one? or a sprocket?
Not unless it is extremely stretched or bent or just plain worn out and crappy. The sprocket will need to be replaced with the chain because they wear togethor.. New sprocket old chain will screw the sprocket, new chain old sprocket will screw the chain. If the sprocket teeth are sort of leaning forward its definitly a sign to replace the sprocket. The chain is supposed to have about 2 inches of freeplay (2 inches up and down) and you can tighten it, unless its all the way tight.

2- my bro have a 250r and he said to cut the oil injection... whats the best?
Yes, you should definitly remove the injection system. The reason is, alot of Blaster's have had the hoses gum up which means it will stop flowing, therefore your engine is running on pure gas making it EXTREMELY lean and no lubrication and it will seize. This isn't a definite but alot of times they do gum up. The block-off kit is from Vito's and is only about 30 bucks and maybe a 10 minute fix.

3- i live canada Quebec and the winter here are COLD Freacking cold!!! so my bro also said that the Jet must be ajuste for the winter, is it hard ? what is consist of?
Jetting is cake. All you have to do is remove the carburator, and take the bowl off then remove the main jet (I believe its a 1/4 inch socket) and look at the top of it. Will have a number. I'll use 50 as an example, but yours should be between 100 - 300. If you are running lean you need to make the 50 higher to make it richer, if you are rich it needs to go down making it leaner. Leaner = more air to the air/fuel ratio, richer = more fuel to the air/fuel ratio.
Now being in the winter.. I have NEVER rejetted a machine for the winter and I had temps of -30 before.

4- its not new , so i was wondering what thing is a MUST to do before i go and ride it in the wood?
Skid plates for the swingarm/sprocket, belly/engine, and a-arms are a good idea. But other than that nothing really.

5- my fking bro also said that the rear bearing seems to be old and have to be repair, I want some info where can i buy my Blaster parts ? Less expensif if possible...
There are a number of ways to tell if bearings are bad. First off, place it on a stand or something so both rear tires are off the ground. Then wiggle each tire. If one, or both, wiggle, make sure the rim is tight to the hub, and then wiggle again. If it wiggles chances are the bearings are bad. If so, they are not that hard to fix. All you have to do is take the tires off, take the axle out, and replace the bearings by beating the shit out of them till they come out and pressing new ones in. www.rockymountainatv.com is a good place to buy parts.

6- the break system is original , well all of this blaster is original so what should i do or buy to make this baby break Alot!!!?
New brake pads and tighten them.


I hope I didn't confuse you, and I hope I helped a little. If you have anymore questions be sure to post em up.

Again, welcome to BT :TB:
 

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volks16valves said:
sorry about the 2nd question lol i forgot to say my question , its should i take of the oil injection fonction and put mix gas???
As I said, it's probally a good idea because they can gum up. The kit consists of a little metal plate and a gasket. I'm not sure of the exact steps, but pretty much you rip the pump out and put the metal plate in. Then mix 32:1.
 

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also a big welcome to bluetraxx :tup:
once you start modifing it the 2 first things you should get are a exhaust system and a good port and polish

oooo, and by the way search e-bay if your looking for good prices (most of the time)
good luck :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hey dude thanks alot i cant imagine that you have reply this fast!
when you say its A MUST to change the sproket , is there a way to see if its bad? or new? cause i realy dont know how to check the condition of the sproket, tomorrow I will check if the ajustement is at his max , if not maybe its new and maybe the slack was normal.

when i started it today , the motor wasnt hot so maybe that is why he wasnt taking his gaz direct (.5 , 1 sec of delay before accelering) , or my bro was right about the jet , he said its maybe because its not well ajust. and your telling me that i dont have to touch the jet for the winter? cause i realy dont want to hurt this ATV , my bro said in winter its not the same kind of AIR and it can JAM the piston.

sprocket, belly/engine, and a-arms whats this? lol its my first atv... ( i already drove one but i never own one)

how do i tigh my rear break? its not breacking anymore. and about the breacking system , everybody is laughing at my cause its cable and not hydraulic , can i buy an upgrade to make them hydro?
 

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Welcome to the Bluetraxx boards and congrats on the Blaster. :tup:

when i started it today , the motor wasnt hot so maybe that is why he wasnt taking his gaz direct (.5 , 1 sec of delay before accelering) , or my bro was right about the jet , he said its maybe because its not well ajust. and your telling me that i dont have to touch the jet for the winter? cause i realy dont want to hurt this ATV , my bro said in winter its not the same kind of AIR and it can JAM the piston.
Your brother is 100% right. You should definately rejet if you plan on riding your Blaster in the winter. If you don't, you're just asking for trouble. As it gets colder out the air gets more dense, which means that more gas is needed to compensate for the dense air being added to the fuel mixture. Going up a couple sizes should be good enough to prevent a lean condition. I learned that the hard way one cold night while out riding. I didn't go up on the main jet and ended up running lean, melting the piston. :bk:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the help , i was searching for the kit that block the oil injection , how is it call if im searching it on ebay?
 

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Personally I have never rejetted, nor have I known anyone to rejet for the winter. If you guys have had experiances with a lean condition in the winter than I guess you should rejet to be safe. You could do a plug chop to be sure. This is when you take a new plug with you and find a big open place to ride fast. Swap the plugs at the open place and go 3/4 - full throttle the whole way then pull the clutch and hit the engine stop without letting it decelerate much. Then pull the plug and check for white/grey spots around the bottom ring of the threads, that part that would be on the very bottom. If there is any signs of white then go up a few sizes on your main jet. If there is black then go down a few sizes, because that would indicate rich. Don't go too many sizes or you will end up lean / rich.

Swingarm is the part that holes the rear shock and axle, it extends from the back of the frame. You should get a skid plate for that if you plan on riding around alot of rocks. There is only a 4 or 5 inch ground clearance for the swingarm so you can't be riding over big rocks and such without a skidplate. A skidplate is basically a piece of thin aluminum to cover the bottom of your quad up for protection. The belly/engine is the bottom of the frame, its a belly or engine skidplate. This is to protect the bottom of your frame and engine from rocks or debris. The a-arms are what hold the front wheels on and also the bottom of your front shocks. You can get skidplates for that also, again, to prevent damage from rocks or debris.

You can buy a conversion kit for the rear brakes, using a banshee rear disc and caliper, but it's pretty pricey and hard to install. Takes a little bit of machining skills for your brake pedal and such. I'm not an expert on the blasty brakes but if I am correct, there is a cover type thing on the brake and you can remove it and turn a white dial. That's all I know, sorry.

If the sprocket is worn the teeth will be leaning forward. They need to be straight up and down, like this /\. It's not a MUST to change the sprocket when you change the chain, but you might as well. They aren't that expensive. I got mine for 6 bucks. Like I said, the chain should have about 1 1/2 - 2 inches of movement up and down. Also a good way to tell, pull on the chain at the back of the sprocket. like where the chain is wrapped around the sprocket, pull it. If it seperates from the sprocket enough so you can see the teeth you definitly are too loose. And don't make the chain so tight it doesn't move up and down, that will ruin it by severly stretching it and ruin the sprocket. By the way, the front sprocket should be fine, they are made different than the rear ones and last longer.

Hope I helped
 

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Discussion Starter #12
im looking for a chain and sprocket kit... whats better , power or speed? i will do some atv in the wood... will i be able to make some weelies with a speed kit???
 

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depends on how you ride...
if you want to go fast get the smaller rear sproket/larger fromt sproket
if you want to go for power you would want big rear/small front sprokets
btw if you want to do wheelies you will loose some top speed...
i know other guys can tell you about the perfect combination between power and top speed, but its not me, lol im still on the stock sprokets and still goin strong! :lol:
 

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i guess it has side to side play.. his brake disk i think...

i have some small play in it too.. but relly dont think it smakes too big of a diiff :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks lol , today i have receive my complete gasket set, i started to open my motor, when i arrive to my piston , i check to see if there was a slack from left to right and there was a small one , is it normal? is the ring make the rest of the job? or it suppose to be perfecly flush and no slack. i also took of my head and i think i can see some small melting place in the starting of the cooling chamber ( i think lol) tomorrow im gonna take some picture to show you if its normal , and how can i know that my crank and all the bearing (of the crank and piston) are in good condition?


i also had some problem to put my 1rst gear sometime with this atv , when its real hot i have to give a big kick on the shifter to make him to 1rst. but its not everytime, what could it be?
 

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cold weather jets

we tend to lean toward a little richer on the main in cold weather, rather than lean., per Yamaha and Honda. watch that plug! it will tell you what is going on. surprisingly, we see the most seized engines in the winter and its cuz of ... what? too lean a mixture and/or too cold a plug. watch it closely. :tup:
 
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