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I have a 2000 350 and it starts fine and idles ok, but ti will not rev up. When you give it throttle it sputters and will nor rev up.HELP. thanks:no::no:
 

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sounds like it could be your parking brake... disconnect it and see if the problem goes away... it wouldn't hurt to just get a block off plate and take that junk off so you'll never have that problem (even if this isn't the problem this time)
 

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I have a 2000 350 and it starts fine and idles ok, but ti will not rev up. When you give it throttle it sputters and will nor rev up.HELP. thanks:no::no:
I have the same problem. i changed the plug (it looked pretty fouled) and it ran fine for a couple days. then after sitting in a freezing rain it started to do the same thing again.

Just as it stalls as i accelerate there is an audible click that i have not been locate yet.

This is my sons ATV and he will be back for X-Mass from the army and I should have it running for him.

Any help will be greatly appreciated...
 

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I have a 2000 350 and it starts fine and idles ok, but ti will not rev up. When you give it throttle it sputters and will nor rev up.HELP. thanks:no::no:
I have the same problem. i changed the plug (it looked pretty fouled) and it ran fine for a couple days. then after sitting in a freezing rain it started to do the same thing again.

Just as it stalls as i accelerate there is an audible click that i have not been locate yet.

This is my sons ATV and he will be back for X-Mass from the army and I should have it running for him.

Any help will be greatly appreciated...
 

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ok I just went and started it again, it backfired at the throttle position that it would normally quit and then I drove it without a problem for a quarter mile or so.

i am stumped, could it be the stator?
 

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I would test the stator just to rule it out.
 

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I'm new here and not sure what the protocol is for bumping threads but I found this site because of the thread title showing up in a Google search.

I have a 2003 350 Wolverine that is having the exact issues mentioned. I did notice that when I turned right, the thing ran better. Turn left and it would go back to sputtering. At first I was thinking fuel, but it happens so intermittently. Then, I was thinking a wire was shorting out, but typically, if that was the case, it would kill it completely.

The suggestion of the parking brake hanging up makes perfect sense. I won't have time to go back out tonight, but hopefully tomorrow. I will follow up with a post when I track down the problem.

Thanks!

ETA: Parking brake was the problem. Seems the return spring is weak. The weird part is that this all happened at the same time a mouse or mice torn up my air cleaner and made a nest in the air box and chewed up some wiring. All of which I thought I had fixed. As long as I keep the PB bracket forward, it runs great.
 

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New as well here , not new to service work . 98 wolverine 350 , backfires above idle , will not rev . Read about the park brake ,should have 2 wire on off eletrical switch. What happens when it goes bad and how do you check it ? An you just plug it into itself ?
 

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sounds more like a cracked intake boot than parking brake switch symptoms. the intake boots are a mix of rubber and steel and are prone to cracking epically if it got hot. the cracks can be hard to see and sometimes you have to pull the carb and boot and manipulate the boot under a good light to see the crack. on a warrior you just unplug it. not sure on a wolverine. my guess is the switch is like a warrior or others I have seen and the switch is normally open, when you apply the brake it closes the switch and the rev limiter kicks in. it is normally not the switch that goes bad it is the brake perch and the brake handle rattles applying intermittent pressure on the switch turning on and off the rev limiter. the wire you plug into itself is the clutch switch, if you are having trouble with the neutral safety switch you can do this mod and the machine thinks the clutch is pulled all the time allowing you to start it in gear. to test it unplug it and see if it is better. if that does not work set your meter to continuity and rev the machine the switch should stay constant either always open or always shut, again my guess is always open.
 

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I have a 350 wolverine it did same thing as most of you have described. After finally messing with it I got it to rev. `Mine would rev good but going up a hill it would just bog down as if it was not getting the fuel or had a clogged fuel filter. Mine had a high performance carb on it. When I first change out that high performance with another high performance that I had rebuilt it cough, spit, sputtered and back fired I finally got it adjusted so it would rev and thought I had it fixed but it would still lose power going up hill.

Things I tried before figuring it out.
1. Adjusting every thing on carb.(except the needle height)
2. Disabled the parking brake and rear brake switches.
3. Adjusted Valves.
4. New spark plug.
5. Air filter(cleaned)

I decided since I could not get it to run right using a high performance carb I would buy a standard carb and put on it. When this new carb came in I had the very same problems you have described. Could not get it to run without back firing etc.
What I found out is the needle in this new carburetor was set at the middle clip position and was making mixture to lean. I started moving this setting to different positions and found that the position it runs best is the richest position meaning the clip is at the lowest point on the needle. The higher the clip was set(up to leanest position) the worse it ran.
I also found out that without the air filter in place it will spit sputter and back fire at higher rpm(around 2400 and higher).

The new carburetor is for a wolverine but it is also for a 250 - 400 cc so I think it comes adjusted for a 250. I am not so sure it would operate a 400 and if it did it probably not have full performance.
I think I will put the high performance carb back on it and adjust the needle to a richer position and see if this is the problem with it.
The valves and timing also have a great effect on this(timing not much you can do about but valves can be adjusted). Also a defective CDI unit can cause timing and coughing issues because of the built in rpm restrictor that the parking brake activates.
 
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