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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys/gals I am going to set my Y up for XC riding (all I do honestly). I have an 07SE that is 100% stock. I see some people add weight to the flywheel to prevent stalling. Is this a necessity for a woods rider? And is it an option for the 07 quads? I also would like to get the quad tech bump style seat to soften the seat and add some support. Aside from wheels, tires and nerfs is their anything else the Y would need to be a good woods rider?
 

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some long travel suspension would really help if you can drop the cash on it. some fasst flexx bars are expensive, but will really help your arms.
instead of the heavy fly wheel, you can look at a recluse clutch, its an auto clutch system that you dont have to pull in a lever for, and really never stalls. if you dont have issues with stalling in the first place, you probably wont need either.

instead of the quad tech hump seat, i would look at the one with more foam, the thicker one, or the desert, the hump really isnt any better except for the very back, and that hump isnt really made to sit on, its made to slide your butt back against it.

some series require a tether kill switch, they arent expensive and are actually a good investment.

might want to think about a new grab bar and a bigger bumper, if you get stuck out there, you might need the extra strenth to pull yourself out.

anything you can do for comfort, a longer stem, better grips, taller tires, etc. a camel back water pack is a good idea.

XC races are brutal, so take your time, dont expect to whip ass the first time, (i thought the same thing, fast as hell on the trails, etc, xc race is a whole different animal)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
some long travel suspension would really help if you can drop the cash on it. some fasst flexx bars are expensive, but will really help your arms.
instead of the heavy fly wheel, you can look at a recluse clutch, its an auto clutch system that you dont have to pull in a lever for, and really never stalls. if you dont have issues with stalling in the first place, you probably wont need either.

instead of the quad tech hump seat, i would look at the one with more foam, the thicker one, or the desert, the hump really isnt any better except for the very back, and that hump isnt really made to sit on, its made to slide your butt back against it.

some series require a tether kill switch, they arent expensive and are actually a good investment.

might want to think about a new grab bar and a bigger bumper, if you get stuck out there, you might need the extra strenth to pull yourself out.

anything you can do for comfort, a longer stem, better grips, taller tires, etc. a camel back water pack is a good idea.

XC races are brutal, so take your time, dont expect to whip ass the first time, (i thought the same thing, fast as hell on the trails, etc, xc race is a whole different animal)
I dont plan on jumping straight to the podium. That has never really crossed my mind as I know I need to work on alot of things before that happens.

I have a camel back and planned on keeping the 21" front and 20" rear for tires. The kill switch will be a def as all of my previous quads have had them and they can be a saver. The V shaped rear grab bar is on my list already but as for the front I cant find a bumper that does not look TOO big on the Y. I am a taller guy ( 6' 3") so a longer steering stem or atleast machining a riser will be another given for me. I didnt know that there were other seats available that had more foam so I will go check those out. (I guess quadtech also?) I dont know if I will drop any cash on the LT front yet. I would like to keep that for a later venture because of price. Flexx bars have been on my wish list for some time but I dont know if I can justify spending 300 on a set of bars when I can buy 4 sets of top notch style bars for that price. I was just curious as to the "stories" I had heard about stalling the Y. I came off of a Polaris predator that I had installed a BB kit and all the associated mods that go with that. It was a torque monster and I could lug it in 3rd through the woods without having a problem pulling all the way to the rev limiter.

Thanks for being patient with me as I will have loads of questions. I tried the search but couldnt find what I wanted there.
 

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no problem, ask all you want, i must say though, im by NO MEANS a XC pro myself, lol. i race a few local races, hoping to get into much bigger next year. doing a big rebuild right now. i wouldnt worry about doing any internal mods on the bike, it has more than enough power stock, you can do the simple things... (pipe, intake, cam mod)

a stem will definitely benefit you being that tall, or you can get some risers from various companies, i have a set up protaper 1 1/8 adaptors that raise the bars about an inch, and a little longer stem, a taller set of bars will do the same thing.

the races ive ran, ive stalled it a couple times, but it isnt that big of a deal, i took off the nuetral safetly so i can start in gear. but as long as your bike is in tune, you should be able to pull the clutch in a pop the button if you ever stall. its not like its constantly stalling either. so thats up to you. if you have issues with stalling, i would reccomend the recluse over the heavier flywheel.

anything you can do to make it more comfortable, and make it easier to ride longer will benefit you in these races.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had a guy tell me to check into lowering the pegs also. Now thats something I dont have any clue about. I found the seats and +length stems/risers but have not found anything on lower pegs.
 

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there are a few companies that make nerfs with built in pegs that are a little lower, i dont think anyone makes just pegs that lower. any nerfs you find are only gonna drop them about an inch. im just under 6 ft, and the pegs dont bother me a bit, if you get a thicker seat and taller bars, its the same as lowering the pegs, its really up to you.

i also forgot to mention armor, if you dont have new skid plates, get em.

i like the prm for the swinger, it protects the shock linkage, and doesnt loose any ground clearance, some skids hang down enough for larger sprockets that hangs down about an inch under the stock sprocket. you really gotta be careful what brand you buy.

the engine skid is important too, dont wanna punch a whole in your case.
 

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One thing that's worth its weight in gold...a steering dampener! I feel that's a MUST HAVE for XC racing.

If you're serious about it, go with 22" front & rear tires. And like leveldrummer has said, go with plenty of protection and anything else that will make you as comfortable as possible...it's all about endurance.
 

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also forgot some bead locks, they really help, i run low pressure in my tires, it helps grip, and soften the ride a little, and ive popped my bead on a race before, bead locks will really help with popping tires, and changing them after the races.

if you never want to get a flat, you can check out tire balls, i dont have the money for them, but the people ive talked to that use them, love them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
also forgot some bead locks, they really help, i run low pressure in my tires, it helps grip, and soften the ride a little, and ive popped my bead on a race before, bead locks will really help with popping tires, and changing them after the races.

if you never want to get a flat, you can check out tire balls, i dont have the money for them, but the people ive talked to that use them, love them.
I have seen them and I can not see paying that price. I have seen people use "pool noodles" to put in their tires and they work somewhat like tire balls for about 1/16th the price. Bead locks would be nice but I am only doing this for fun so the justification probably wont be there for me. I have to keep it reasonable or the wife will de-man me.
 

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IMO to get started you NEED:
Yes a steering damper on that YFZ unless you're going for a stock class. I'd look into stock class if available - great way to save $$$ as you break into the sport. Do some looking around and talk to people and build from there. Unless you're going to buy suspension I'd get a shock revalve/respring. Handling is the name of the game. The YFZ has plenty of power, but a pipe is handy in that people can hear you coming up behind and will get out of your way. Stock motor should be fine on gas for 2 hours. Keep the 20" rear tires, 21" on front is good too & I would go with a 6 ply Razr2 or equiv on the front. All the rider safety gear you can comfortably wear. Myself I'll be looking into some kind of neck brace too for next year. Nerfs. Skids. Have a plan formulated to keep mud out of the radiator when needed. I know people whose mud plan is to stay home or/and get drunk in the pits on mud race day! :hehe:

Make sure everything is tight. And locktite your bolts.

You can be ready to race fairly inexpensively, and with a little experience & looking around you'll be able to literally spend as much money as you want.

The views of this racer do not necessarily represent the views of people that know what they're talking about.
 

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If you're serious about it, go with 22" front & rear tires.

I've never seen anybody fast on 22" rears even on mud race day. Mostly just the Blasters & Warriors that are running pretty stock. Oh, and website administrators that hang out at MX tracks and do their trail riding on a Kodiak. :razz:
 

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Pffft....I trail ride on 18" rears, on a YFZ sir! :razz:

I would think 22" rears would be ideal for the really rutted, rocky stuff. :shrug:
 

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i cant see using 22 inch rears, so damn tall! 20's work great for me, i run the razr2's and with the 11 inch width, they really help me stay out of any ruts.

the best thing to do with ruts is avoid them! stradle them, or just go around.

our race series sends the bikes in first, and we follow later in the day, so any ruts that are there are usually skinny and deep.
 

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Pffft....I trail ride on 18" rears

You must ride those nice paved bicycle paths that you east coasters have :lol:

18's ain't gettin where we go, unless you pull the skid and chance your sprocket & rotor on rocks :bummer:
 

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there is actually a fat kid that runs our series on a stock lt450r, with wide ass arms and little bitty tires, i dont see how he makes it through half that stuff.



back on topic, not sure what kinda equipment you have, but if your young and tough, you might not think you need a kidney belt, but get one, it might not seem like much, but it can save you alot of trouble when you get older, and when you bounce your guts around and wake up in the middle of the night with screaming abdominal pain, you will wish you had worn one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
there is actually a fat kid that runs our series on a stock lt450r, with wide ass arms and little bitty tires, i dont see how he makes it through half that stuff.



back on topic, not sure what kinda equipment you have, but if your young and tough, you might not think you need a kidney belt, but get one, it might not seem like much, but it can save you alot of trouble when you get older, and when you bounce your guts around and wake up in the middle of the night with screaming abdominal pain, you will wish you had worn one.
Im def. not a KID... Turn 30 in 1week. I can agree with the kidney thing as I have had problems with them before. I almost passed out from that pain.

I have decided to use either RAZR 2's or ITP GNCC tires for the front and Regular 6ply RAZR's for the rear. The wheels will stay "stock ish" and I will go with a swing arm guard, belly plate and propeg style nerfs of some sort. I think im set on getting an HMF slipon with a K&N drop in style filter. I have machined a 1" bar spacer for my predator and plan on doing the same for the YFZ. Aside from this I will run a few times and go from here I think.
 

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sound like you have a real good setup planned out, get some vids of your first race (helmet cams are nice ;) good luck man, let us know how you do.
 

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You must ride those nice paved bicycle paths that you east coasters have :lol:

18's ain't gettin where we go, unless you pull the skid and chance your sprocket & rotor on rocks :bummer:
Normally I'll switch to my 20s, but sometimes I don't when Im lazy. You'd be surprised where you can go with 18s...there ain't much of a difference. And trust me, the trails around here are ROUGH. Very rocky, rutted powerline trails.
 

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Well, huh. You don't shred your thinwall tires, either, I suppose. So call me silly again. But I'd still do 20's for XC.


Sooner I think you're going to do fine with that.
 
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