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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, purchased this 2000 Warrior approximately 5 months ago. Would not start. VERY similar to how it is behaving now. Traced it down to a junk aftermarket carburetor and a bad aftermarket Stator. My cousin has a bunch of OEM Warrior parts . So he hooked me up with a stock Makuni carb and a used OEM Stator. It ran like hell. Then about 6 weeks ago on a 5 hour rough ride she rattled lose 1 of the battery bolt, was able to find the screw but no but no but. It was a long 20 mile track through the mountains with forced stalls. Anyways, the next day. Starter solinoid took a shit. So, I said "Wtf, I might as well scoop up a new starter as well" Once the arrived I installed new parts. The new starter (Rick's Electric Motorsports) took noticably longer to fire it up. Next long ride It a tad longer. My mind says "Stator". My heart says Starter was maybe faulty. Also I could hear the Valves needed attention. Starting from park,1/4 throttle she began to sputter, hammer throttle, she's fine. Repeat. Memorial day I took her out. She fired up first time. Had no issues. Took her up a strap mud hill. She stalled then all she would do is roll over. But no start. Put her in 3rd. My buddy pushed me up to speed, dumped the clutch and she comes to life! I rode straight home. Pulled plug,had normal wear. Attempted to test spark and it is Blue. But it's BARLEY visible. *My Brain says, STATOR!". Complete curvball though. My cousin that knows his shit says it is not. It's the Valves. I haven't tried testing the Stator yet. It won't run so it will have to be continuity test (Never Done it) I did however pull the carburetor out and have her a good bath. Sorry guys,,LONG STORY.馃ぃShe just cranks, the ignition. My plan is the work the "Ignition Troubleshooting" steps in my Clymer manual. Tips on Stator testing would be a plus. Last but not least. Valves need to be checked and adjusted/replaced...Again, Never done. Bring on the guidance
6305
 

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Best thing i can suggest is download the factory service manual, and invest in the Clymer Warrior and Raptor 350 manual. They will suggest everything needed to troubleshoot.
 

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its the stator, classic warrior symptoms. that being said test it before you replace it. if it was valves it could produce those symptoms but it would run like crap as well. the yamaha stators are good but the wires they use wont hold up to the heat a warrior makes. use the ricky stator aftermarket one and you wont have any more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Best thing i can suggest is download the factory service manual, and invest in the Clymer Warrior and Raptor 350 manual. They will suggest everything needed to troubleshoot.
I have a Clymer manual. But it says specifically. The Stator must be "Warm" to test it properly. The quad will not start under its own power. Is it possible to get a accurate Continuity test in a "cold" Stator?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its the stator, classic warrior symptoms. that being said test it before you replace it. if it was valves it could produce those symptoms but it would run like crap as well. the yamaha stators are good but the wires they use wont hold up to the heat a warrior makes. use the ricky stator aftermarket one and you wont have any more problems.
I agree. When it runs it runs. Do the Valves need done? Yes, I can here them. But it's not the primary cause of the "Non Start" condition. Lastly, can you test a "cold" Stator for Continuity? It will not start under its own power. So I must be able to test it while still installed in quad. I have a multimeter. Can you confirm?
 

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Yes you can but you will be testing ohms. You can do it cold but your numbers may be off from the manual. They are never right on anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, update. The Stator sadly is not the problem. It tested all within spec. So ,it's going to my buddy that says he's pretty sure the Valves are too tight is what the issue is. I say sadly because if the Stator was infact bad I would know it was good to go..Now it's hurry up and wait..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
He's busy right now. I tested the ignition coil,starter relay. Both good. Strange..the other day I at least had a weak spark..Now. no spark at all. I'll keep testing. Probably a wiring issue
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did notice something sort of odd by looking at 2000 warrior wiring diagram. Someone has the main red wire with a fuse hooked to the starter solinoid on mine rather than too the positive terminal as the wiring diagram suggest. It also shows a frame ground coming off the Negative post. There is the large guage black (starter I believe)coming from negative post as well as a smaller black wire but both go straight into harness. The wiring diagram shows the Positive smaller red wire with a fuse connected to the positive terminal but also another connection with a smaller black wire. Hmm wonder if this has anything to do with the non spark issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OMG so simple it pissed me off! The positive wire with inline fuse still has factory connectors. It had come unplugged. It was also hooked to Starter Solinoid rather than battery as manual suggest. So YES! WE HAVE SPARK!. She starts and idles fine. But I'm positive that the exhaust valve is dumping oil into exhaust pipe. It began to smolder/smoke when idling. So she will stay put until I get my feeler guages to adjust valves.
 

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If you hear the valves there is no problem. (except them being loose maybe) Positive battery terminal goes directly to the starter solenoid which has a smaller red wire with fuse going to ign switch and regulator. Negative battery should have a large wire going to the frame. If it just started smoking check the oil level it could be to high from gas getting in the oil.
 
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