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Been working on getting a box of parts with a frame back and running for my grandson. Quad is running great and were starting it with a screwdriver. Finally jumped into the wiring harness and figured some of it out. Here are my issues now.

1.) Neutral Sensor? below the shifter left side. This wire leads back to a blue wire near starter relay. I've tried to ground it and still can't get my neutral light to come on. I've tested the switch for ground when bike is placed into neutral and I can't get anything. How do you test this little bugger with an ohm meter. Should be zero in any gear and when it clicks into neutral it should go unlim on continuity right?

2.) Because of the above problem with neutral safety crap...have to pull in clutch and the push button start just gets me a click in the starter relay. Good right? I can start the quad with a screwdriver and a couple of times I have abused the outer casing of the relay and pushed the starter and it functioned. New relay right? I mean, why if it clicks I can't get it to crank? Something toasted or wrong on the inside probably.

3.) The bike did not come with headlights and I just bought and mounted a set on the front for my grandson and the connectors on the lights are straight 3 ea butt type push me pull me connectors. The matching connectors coming out of the wiring harness have plastic triangular white connections on them. Do I have a problem with the year the bike was made butt type vs connector white plastic or what? Should I just cut the green/yellow/black? connectors off the harness and splice to the new headlights or is there some type of connector I can order.

4.) There is a green and white wire coming out of the harness near the reverse forward shifter. This shifter was purchased for this bike after it wasn't located in the box and linkage hooked up. It would seem to the guy with average intelligence that the forward / reverse shifter that I should have bought would have had some type of electrical wire coming off of it...well, the shifter I bought for it that is working fine does not have an electrical connection place on it. I'm not sure where this open green/white wire is to go.

** But what I do know is that if I ground this wire to ground (checked it and it wasn't hot with key on) it makes the little green plastic relay thingy that is right behind the starter relay click and make all kind of noise and may even be energizing the relay itself....that is when I through my hands up. I don't know what to do next with this. I really don't want to short out, splice, rewire and do all kind of stuff to this as I want it right, like factory. What to do?

Lastly, the neutral and reverse I guess plastic thing that snaps onto steering bar has positive at both of the brown wires but there is no ground at the blue and other wire. MY experience tells me that these grounds will appear when the neutral thing is repaired on one side and when the reverse wire problem is fixed on the other, right?

Thanks for any and all input to this problem. Yes he can ride it as it runs like a scalded dog. I just don't want him having to start it with a screw driver.

One more thing...God I'm rambling her and hoping for a bone... The other day he was riding and saying it started to click and make noise...hours later he brings it to me and sure enough, the little intake nut had backed off of the adjustor for the intake valve spring. I scolded him on needing to bring it to me at first tap so I could fix it....nope, runs it until nut drops off in head. I have made a diagnosis that there is no way that little nut can make it thru the cam gear to drop down the chain and lock motor...nor is it able to get into the valve spring and drop through an open valve....right? It is lost and harmless, right? I ordered another and it is on there and running fine. I really just don't want to find it the hard way. It would seem that the cam rotating forward would flip it up and it would drop on the exhaust side of the head in there somewhere never to be seen again.....

Thanks for reading and thanks so much more for helping me, help my Grandson. Can't thank you all but thanks for any help.

Mr. Tripp
Augusta, GA

2,007 Posts
neutral switch: it works opposite of the way you would think and if memory serves you are testing it backwards but download the manual in the sticky above for the exact testing procedures. it will walk you right through it. that being said if you put one wire of your meter on the pin in the switch and one on the negative battery terminal you will get one result in all 5 gears and the opposite in neutral. if that does not happen it is the switch. i have worked on several of these and the wiring in that circuit is not intuitive. you will need the diagram. i am assuming that since this is for your grandson you are an old guy like me and i can tell you that after rebuilding several of these machine the best 30 bucks you will ever spend is on the clymer manual. if you dont care about the light working the easiest fix for he whole mess is follow the 2 wires out of the clutch perch down to the 2 bullet connectors, unplug them and take the 2 connectors from the bike side of the harness and plug them together. this will trick the cdi into thinking the clutch is pulled all the time and bypasses the safety stuff. be careful it will start in gear.

if the starter relay clicks when you hit the button and it wont start but it will start with a screwdriver the solenoid is bad happens a lot and they are cheap.

headlight. if you are useig an aftermarket light setup just clip the wires and make your own connections. i used the high beam wires but i dont think it matters. an fyi. warriors barely make enough watts to run the factory lights and charge the battery so if you are running an aftermarket light you need to do the math and make sure you are not running in the negative. the numbers you need are in the book. if you are running a factory setup there are several generations of lights and if the plug does not match it is just the wrong generation, there is not an adapter just make your own. try to use solder and shrink wrap where you can warriors vibrate a lot and will shake the connections apart.

green wire. there should be a switch similar to the neutral safety switch on the forward reverse lever that the green wire hooks to. the switch is normally closed and when you put it in reverse it breaks the ground and activates the rev limiter so you cant go to fast (has nothing to do with the start circuit) they almost always go bad. just take the green wire and ground it under one of the mounting bolts for the lever. i am guessing the relay you are hearing is the rev-limiter its been a while so again check the manual.

i am not sure about the nut but i would take both valve caps off and search around with a magnet. i dont remember if that chamber is open to the cam chain

i dont have my manual at hand so i am going by memory but everything you described is common on the warrior.

warrior tips.
find the 2 wires coming from the parking brake and follow them down to the grey connector and unplug it. this is the rev limiter for the parking brake and it is always bad
never put a bolt in a warrior with out a lock ring or blue lock tight.
dont overtighten the clamp between the slip on and the head pipe it will break off the head studs
the harnesses are prone to shorts. i have had to unwrap and repair the entire harness on all of mine to get rid of all the gremlins
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