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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up an 87 Warrior 350 today and it needs alot. But engine has great compression so that's a plus and gears all work as best as I could try. Anyways, the PO must Unplugged almost all plugs and cut some wires and since I can't find the wiring diagram I need help. I hooked up battery (even though there is no elec. start) and found power at a plug near the 3 mounted on left rear of frame. It looks as if there should be a 4th one (the farthest one back) since there's a rubber cover but there's nothing there. Is there anyway to bypass it at all? I just want to know if it's worth trying to get running before I part it out. Any help is appreciated. Also there is no front fenders or lights, but I'm assuming some of empty plugs on front are for the lights? And is there a switch or something that should be mounted in left side of the plastic cover on handlebars with reverse/neutral lights?
 

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there are wiring diagrams in the sticky above. does it have a cdi? there is no way to bypass that stuff, you can bypass the neutral safety switch but that is about it for getting rid of stuff. all of the plugs near the back plug into either the cdi or the rectifier and run down to the stator or foreword to the handlebar switch. the coil wire should be orange. there is a black and blue? wire with bullet connectors that are for the tail light. in that area there is a big red wire with a small red wire sistered to it the big on is from the battery to the solenoid and the small one to the fuse and a big black wire from battery to ground. there is a small 2 wire plug that plugs into the solenoid. I have never seen a warrior without an electric start was it bypassed? 87 is a stand alone year for the cdi and stator, they have an extra source coil. the cdi alone can run 300 bucks and are only available used. if you have plugs that don't match up chances are you have more than one generation of electronics. the electronics from any generation will work but they have to be all the same, stator, cdi, rectifier, harness, and flywheel. the hole next to the reverse light is for the gas vent but people use the hole for aftermarket stuff all the time. there should be a key on the right cowl and a handle bar kill switch. if you are ebay savvy you can get a complete set of electronics for a couple hundred bucks. the fenders will be the tough part you can use other years but you will have to make different brackets and such. 87 and 88 are the only years for that exact frame and body work. I have been looking for a year for a nice right fender for my 87 that doesn't cost as much as the bike. I have a completely restored and all original 87 so if you post some pics of you issues I will compare to mine. if I don't get back to you right away don't worry I will but I have a riding trip planned from the 11 through the 18th.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will try to get pics. There is a cover over the starter hole on front of engine. No kill switch or key anywhere
 

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pic 1 the case is broken so you cant bolt the starter in, that's why it is blocked off.pic 2 the green and yellow wires are the head lights, the square with green, brown, yellow and blue and triangle with red black and black is the handle bar switch the 4 prong goes to the key switch and the black looks like it might be coil ground. pic 3 is the cdi and those plug into the wires fro the stator. pic 4 the 2 plugs with the zip tie the one on the right goes in the back spot where it looks like something is missing, the unplugged one is for the rectifier, the starter solenoid is supposed to be where the zip tie is. pic 5 black wire is from the solenoid to the starter, red wire hooks to the main battery cable not sure if it is upstream or down from the fuse, the fuse is on the bottom of the solenoid you don't have, not sure about baby blue. the case of the motor is junk, cant be repaired so you cant put the starter back in. looks like you have most everything electrical but that cdi is a guess there is no test for it you just have to eliminate everything else. it looks like at a minimum you will need a rectifier, key switch, and handle bar multi switch. i hate to see a machine scrapped but i think this one is on the edge. the 87s are a tough sell because of the cdi, you can by 89 and newer fairly nice for 1200 and restored for 1500 all day long. i am not sure it is worth fighting the 87 electronics that harness looked rough and at best you end up with the 87 stuff. unless you can find a super cheap parts bike i dont see you getting her on the road for under 500 and when i restored mine i had another 400 in general wear/maintenance parts ie brakes, bushing bearings to make it safe. i know the machines inside out and it takes me about 40 hours to do a resto. so if you got it free you might break even and in the end it is still a stiff rough riding warrior. if the cdi is good should part out on ebay 300 - 400 if you put the time into disassembling and listing the stuff. i have seen the cdi for as much as 300 alone. so if you love it fix it if it is just another bike to you i would part it. hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is exactly the info I was looking for, I appreciate it. Probably just end up parting it out at this point I've got 100 invested for this and an 86 TRX250 that's seized. Thank you for everything and have a good riding trip
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know the right side is completely shot but I believe the left side was good. rolling it straight the wheel just goes side to side
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Would this engine work in a 2003 warrior, using all the 03 electronics? Found one cheap and it's all there just has a bad connecting rod
 

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You will ant to put the stator from the 03' in the engine, then it will work
 

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Yes you will need the entire harness.
 

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Cory, I have a problem with a 87 warrior that's in good condition except for a hesitation about half throttle. If I back off the throttle a little, it will fully rev and pretty strong. I have replaced stata, cdi, external coil, and rectifier. Mine has no factory park brake or reverse switch, only a clutch safety switch. Also, there is a relay behind the stater relay for neutral and one more behind that. Not sure if it works or what it does nor the one on the right side beside the exhaust. Can someone help with this please?
 

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Picked up an 87 Warrior 350 today and it needs alot. But engine has great compression so that's a plus and gears all work as best as I could try. Anyways, the PO must Unplugged almost all plugs and cut some wires and since I can't find the wiring diagram I need help. I hooked up battery (even though there is no elec. start) and found power at a plug near the 3 mounted on left rear of frame. It looks as if there should be a 4th one (the farthest one back) since there's a rubber cover but there's nothing there. Is there anyway to bypass it at all? I just want to know if it's worth trying to get running before I part it out. Any help is appreciated. Also there is no front fenders or lights, but I'm assuming some of empty plugs on front are for the lights? And is there a switch or something that should be mounted in left side of the plastic cover on handlebars with reverse/neutral lights?
Circuit component Rectangle Schematic Font Slope
 
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