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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,


New to the forum here and after searching for awhile without finding anyone with the same problem I'm hoping some of you more familiar with these can point to some likely culprits..


My friends quad: a week or so ago he said due to his battery not being braced properly and flopping around, the positive terminal snapped right off the battery. After replacing the battery and cable to the solenoid, it now will not turn over with the start button, and when jumping across the solenoid, it will turn over, but produces no spark.. I guess how these 2 issues would be related are confusing me - seems like 2 separate issues??? I tried replacing the solenoid and no luck, same result.


Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated as I'm frankly a bit baffled.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
sounds like the main fuse is blown, possibly when the battery shorted out


Thanks, that was one of the first things I checked. found one fuse block with 3 tiny blade fuses under the seat, as well as the 2 fuses on the solenoid and all tested good with a meter. Any other ideas?


I believe the blue wires going to the solenoid are supposed to pass 12volt when start button is pushed and I get ground through those wires. I think the CDI is supposed to pass voltage to through the blue wires with button pushed, correct? When testing those for continuity from 12volt at battery - I get infinite with button pushed. So in either of these tests, the button is clearly working. I also before all this took apart the on/off switch and cleaned..


I also got the service manual and found it to be less than helpful - I can't locate many of the wires referenced.. I was able to test the white/red & white/green wires which were fine for the pickup coil but I can't find any blue wire which was also specified to test.. also could not find the green and brown wire to test the source coil..
 

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i have never worked on a wolverine so as far a wire colors and function i am not going to be much help. yes one of the small wires that goes to the solenoid should have 12 volts when you push the button. that solenoid is just a big switch that closes when 12 volts is applied. i am going to make some assumptions that yamaha did not stray to far from their norm. there should be a big black wire that grounds the battery to the chassis or motor, a big red wire that goes to the solenoid from the battery and then to the starter? is there a smaller red wire off of the big wire that runs from the battery to the solenoid? if so i would start tracing that wire and look for a break. if it is not wired that way find the wire that power the harness from the fuse block and trace it looking for a break. i suspect your cdi/harness is not getting power? do the lights work. neutral light? with your description i suspect a short or burned wire secondary to the battery issue and not the stator/pick up. rule out your safety switches but normally they just stop it from cranking and even when bad the machine will create spark when you jump the solenoid. if you have a short checking grounds can be confusing as every thing will show ground if there is a short. it is easiest to start at the battery and follow the power in the wiring diagram.
 

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i have never worked on a wolverine so as far a wire colors and function i am not going to be much help. yes one of the small wires that goes to the solenoid should have 12 volts when you push the button. that solenoid is just a big switch that closes when 12 volts is applied. i am going to make some assumptions that yamaha did not stray to far from their norm. there should be a big black wire that grounds the battery to the chassis or motor, a big red wire that goes to the solenoid from the battery and then to the starter? is there a smaller red wire off of the big wire that runs from the battery to the solenoid? if so i would start tracing that wire and look for a break. if it is not wired that way find the wire that power the harness from the fuse block and trace it looking for a break. i suspect your cdi/harness is not getting power? do the lights work. neutral light? with your description i suspect a short or burned wire secondary to the battery issue and not the stator/pick up. rule out your safety switches but normally they just stop it from cranking and even when bad the machine will create spark when you jump the solenoid. if you have a short checking grounds can be confusing as every thing will show ground if there is a short. it is easiest to start at the battery and follow the power in the wiring diagram.


There is a smaller red wire that goes to the plug on the solenoid, along with 2 blue wires. The red wire is slightly thicker gauge and I assumed that's where the pulse of 12volt to the solenoid would come from. It produces no voltage ever, and tracing it back led me to the stator. I tested for continuity no issues all the way to the stator cover.


As for lights - the lights all work with the headlight switch the way they're supposed to, the neutral light also works. When I first started working on it the oil temp light was not coming on but after taking it apart it was a loose wire and now comes on when I push the start button..
 

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i am a little stumped and with out a diagram i am not sure where to go. when you turn the key on is there 12 volts at the starter button. one wire should have 122 volts and the other should go back to the solenoid
 

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Thanks for your attempts, I can try and post pics of the diagram tonight if that helps.. I can't make any sense of it.. as for the start button, one side gets 12volts with key on, other side doesn't.. as I suspected,the other side that 12volt should be passing to when pushing the start button is showing continuity to the negative terminal on the battery..
 

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a diagram would help. as i said chasing grounds is a tough way to diagnose your issue. by nature everything leads to ground even a dead short. turn the key on, unhook the wire that does not have power on the start button or if it is a clip insert your red lead into the wire without voltage and your black lead to ground. set your meter to 12 volts and push the button. your meter should read 12 volts. if not replace the switch. from your other test i assume the switch is good but you need to make sure. that wire should then run directly or indirectly to the start solenoid. if i understand correctly power is not getting to the solenoid. does the power make it to the solenoid? i am guessing you got your wires crossed if you started at the solenoid and ended at the stator. try tracing it from the switch down. you say you have 3 fuses i assume 1 is the main 1 is for the fwd and 1 is the spare? do you have any relays, small black boxes. they work like the solenoid only with less power and it is possible you have a bad one that is not closing and keeping power from the cdi. normally they are tied to the safety switches and prevent cranking. another possibility is a bad cdi. have you inspected it, you cant test it but they sometimes will smell burned or show signs of leaking when they go out. i also agree that the cranking and no spark should be 2 separate issues but i had nearly the same thing happen on a yfz, i was running it in the shop, it back fired and died, would not crank and no spark. unfortunately i am not positive what i did to fix it. i tested every wire, re did some connections, found a ground that came unplugged (its possible that it came unplugged right there in the shop but seems unlikely) and replaced the cdi and then it started. my buddy at the yamaha shop swears that cranking and spark are unrelated and i agree when you look at the diagram but the cdi was the last thing i did. is there a section in you manual on diagnosing the electronics? my clymers have step by step rule outs for all the electrical components. ruling out absolutely every thing else is the only way to diagnose a cdi. was the machine running and did it continue to run after the cable snapped off. i am still most suspicious of a burned/shorted wire. if the machine continued to run with the positive cable flopping around it would have been getting power from the stator and if it grounded could have created a lot of heat. i know i am all over the board here but i am just trying to rule out some easy stuff. if we dont stumble on it soon you might have to start a step by step rule out starting with the harness. i had issues with 2 warriors and on both of them i had to pull the harness, unwrap it and repair the shorts and rubs before i could start ruling out other electrical components. it seems odd that you would have harness issues on a machine that new but if it got hot anything could happen.
 

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Hi All,


New to the forum here and after searching for awhile without finding anyone with the same problem I'm hoping some of you more familiar with these can point to some likely culprits..


My friends quad: a week or so ago he said due to his battery not being braced properly and flopping around, the positive terminal snapped right off the battery. After replacing the battery and cable to the solenoid, it now will not turn over with the start button, and when jumping across the solenoid, it will turn over, but produces no spark.. I guess how these 2 issues would be related are confusing me - seems like 2 separate issues??? I tried replacing the solenoid and no luck, same result.


Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated as I'm frankly a bit baffled.
Hi All,


New to the forum here and after searching for awhile without finding anyone with the same problem I'm hoping some of you more familiar with these can point to some likely culprits..


My friends quad: a week or so ago he said due to his battery not being braced properly and flopping around, the positive terminal snapped right off the battery. After replacing the battery and cable to the solenoid, it now will not turn over with the start button, and when jumping across the solenoid, it will turn over, but produces no spark.. I guess how these 2 issues would be related are confusing me - seems like 2 separate issues??? I tried replacing the solenoid and no luck, same result.


Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated as I'm frankly a bit baffled.
dudeeeeew did you ever figure this out?.my issues are similar.accept before, my batter took a charge and there was completely NOTHIG that would happen when I turned on and pressed start.NOW, after changing the solenoid I hook it up then the wires to the battery and as soon as I made contact with the last wire(positive) on the batter it started turning over and the key wasn’t turned to the on position
 
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