Hi guys, I just picked up a 2006 450, what are the main things I need to look at? I picked this up in trade not running. I think I can repair it without rebuilding the engine. Kid said it was running, he parked it and went to start it next season and it wouldn't start. Who knows... people lie. So, I went and checked it out and wanted to turn the motor over just to make sure it had compression and there wasn't a valve train issue and the motor wont turn over. Starter turns on but the motor doesn't turn over. reading on some other pages, people said the 1 way bearing or starter gear assembly in backwards? any thoughts? What do I look at next? I know there was an oil issue with the 04-06's. Anything I should look for? I plan to pull the valve cover and check the valve clearance and while I am in there I will inspect the cam races. What else to look for?

What is a good oil to run in these? does a good synthetic help with the oil issues? I plan to check to see if this has the 07 oil mod done. Is there a way to ID if the oil pump was replaced?

Along with this unit I got 2 heads. Both have bad cam races. Who is the best at refurbing these heads? and, is it worth it? I got them for free so if I have them done, can I sell them? What are they worth? I also have a good OEM cylinder. looks nikasyl..... worth sending out for refurb? I hate scraping parts if they can be used.....

I also have a set of stock cams so I assume it has aftermarkets installed. guy I got it from mentioned it but was kinda cluless. most of the spare parts he had came from his cousin that used to ride these. How do I tell if this has a set of Hot Cams? reference picture?

It has an FMF exhaust, not sure if its jetted correctly so that is something else I want to look at. I am north of Chicago, I think we are only 400 feet above sea level. Any baseline jetting ideas?

i dont think you can put the starter clutch in backwards but it may be bad or any of the gears in there. you can pull the gear reduction pod off and get somewhat of a look

o4-o6 oil issue. the pumps look very similar so you cant tell from that, the only way to know for sure is to pull the right side case and look for the 07 and up brass squirter.

the yfzs do not have adjustable rockers you will need puck shims and they can be a little tricky. you will need to measure you gap, pull the cams and caps and measure your old one and do the math.

the best oil for these is yamalube imo synthetic is a waste of money

not sure on the heads and cylinder i sent mine to bp racing for the port work and valve job but i dont know if he does the cam races. if it has hot cams the cams will be stampped

as to the jetting without knowing how that motor is built, not really. just pull the plug and check it if it is white you are lean and if it is black rich and adjust from there. every machine is different and needs to be tuned. if you have not done much jetting let me know and i will help. if it just has the slip on and no air box mods stock or very close should get you in the ball park. you dont gain much if anything with just a sliip on

a lot of no starts come from the tors, if you are unfamiliar with the system i did a write up a couple of years ago on here just search it.

as to how much your parts are worth just do an ebay search

thanks, will look for your write up. I did read SOME on the TORS, you just unplug the wire and jump it? Will read more....

I have shimmed many 4 strokes. thats cake. I just dont know the specifics of these high performance off road motors that need attention every 20-30 hour.

yes jumping it will bypass it. i use a yellow female spade connector on the harness side of the plug. i would make an effort to fix it if it is an issue, might save a motor if its upside down. as to the valves you dont need to service them anywhere near that often unless you are full blown racing it. i have an 06 wr and have checked the valves every other year since new and as of this year its still perfect. i have 5 of the high performance yamahas and another 4 or five in the past and none of them have needed that kind of attention. i change the oil once a year unless there is an issue and check the valves when i do that. i like mine on the looser side of the spec. i run the yfz's pretty hard and all sand and the looser spec seems to work better with the extra heat. the first one i got i fussed with more than needed because it sounded noisy to me compared to other machines but now i know they are just a little noisy. just to clarify the starter spins but does not turn the motor?

Its not letting me do a search on here, i get an error. can you look in your chat history and see if you can find the TORS posts?

the starter spins, then turns the "dampener assembly" which is that thing under the little round cover. That turns a small pinion which then turns the magneto. the started and the dampener ARE turning. by hand, the small pinion spins left but not right but its obviously slipping under the torque of the starter. Who all makes the one 1 bearing (starter clutch)? OEM? looks like Caltric but I am skeptical of them.... L&L, and there was one other but I forgot to make a note of it. ANyone else? Are the Caltrics worth buying? I just dont want to spend $250 on the gear and bearing. I dont know what else I will be dumping money into. I need clutch and mag cover gaskets, some misc bolts...... its all gonna add up. I still havent ruled out internal damage. I have no clue what shape the inside is in. I'm tempted to yank the motor and pull it apart just to see. Better to catch a bad crank before it goes through the block right? lol

Which WR parts work in these motors? I see references to cranks, heads, and these starter clutches but the clutches have different part numbers. Look same in parts diagram but I dont fully trust that.

I am so confused on this TORS bypass.... I thought you just unplug the TPS and jump the connector from the harness that plugged INTO the TPS. These forum posts make it sound like you just unplug the TPS on the carb, and then there is another connector on the harness above the motor that needs to be unplugged/jumped. THEN there is still the TORS up front? ???????

Then someone said to just unplug wires on the CDI and connect those and that bypasses the entire TORS. At this point I want to bypass it completely. I can always plug in a teather for safety.

first the one way bearing or starter clutch. cal trec is not my favorite i run about 50/50 on the parts working for the first try. check ebay there are dozens for 60-70 bucks with a gasket. if you really want to be sure rocky mtn has an oem one for 116. i doubt you need the gear. as to the motor a bad starter clutch is no way an indication of a bad motor they go out all the time. to do those motors correctly you need a case separator and crank installer. i would get it running first and see how it sounds. the tusk clutches from rocky mtn or ebay hold up well and are pretty reasonable. i have them in all of my machines. i have a rwhp yfz and it holds up fine in there, i dont have enough hrs on my really built yfz to know for sure but so far so good. ebay for the mag cover

as to the wr parts unless you are wanting to try to convert it to a wide ratio trans not sure why you would want to use wr parts they are significantly detuned from the yz. i have heard the cams, flywheel and ignition from a yz can be swapped in for a little more hp but it is not worth the hassle and i have not tried it my self. my 06 has a dynoed rwhp of 52 with an fmf, open air box, k&n, cam mod and a port and polish. so if performance is you goal i would look there first. the cam mod and air box are free 500 for a port and valve job and whatever pipe you run.

you are confusing the tors and tps threads, 2 totally different things. throttle position sensor (tps) is the three pronged plug that goes to the carb. the yfz has 3 timing curves based on the position of the throttle. there is some bs threads out there that tout performance gains from simply unplugging the tps. i think it comes from people being to lazy to set the potentiometer, its not difficult but you need a meter and have to make some jumper wires. unplugging the tps makes it default to the wot curve and harms both midrange and low end performance. not matter what it will not cause a no start or no spark

i will try to find a way to link my write up to you but in a nut shell the tors system is in a sense a 3 way switch just like the lights in you house. one switch is always closed and the other open. when you press the throttle they reverse. waht they are designed to do is if you crash and the slide stick in your carb and the thumb lever is closed it grounds the cdi and kills the spark. again i think they get deleted because people are to lazy to adjust them. as the machine wears the tiny micro switches become loose and can be cantankerous. there is not much wiggle room, the adjustment is really fine. the easiest way to rule out the tors as your no spark issue is go to the left side of the machine. there are 2 harnesses going to the carb, one with 2 wires and one with 3. find the 2 wire harness and unplug it. on the bike side (as opposed to the carb side) of the harness insert a yellow female spade connector and jump the 2 pins. this will trick the cdi into a no fault situation and your spark should return if that was your problem. throw the connector into your pack, it is not unheard of to have the switches come out of adjustment on the trail.

i would advise against cutting any wires in the harness. if you are dead set on bipassing the tors the spade connector will work fine or you can actually by a bipass plug on ebay. the tethers also seem to cause a lot of issues with these machines but to each his own.

you need to get it spinning first before we can sort out the no start or no spark. i would jack it up and put it in gear and turn the tires and see if the motor turns over and if it does change the starter clutch and go from there. you have a lot of questions and i hope i got them all if not let me know. i strongly recommend ordering the clymer paper manual for this machine it will save you tons of time. it has great wiring diagram and simple step by step instructions for trouble shooting the electrical. i know these machines inside and out and still pull the manual out to make sure i dont miss something.

here is the original post i did, you were right that was not easy to find. lol I don't have an 08 mine is an 05 so I don't have first hand info for you but he tps and tors are actually very simple circuits once you get past the smoke, mirrors and voodoo. the tors circuit is a simple on off circuit. it forms a continuous loop that tells the cdi every thing is ok. a break in the loop shorts the ignition to ground and shuts the machine down to prevent damage. there is a switch on the carb and the throttle when one switch is open the other is closed completing the circuit at all times, it prevents over revving in a stuck carb slide situation . the tors is typically spark or no spark deal. however if one of the switches I worn or out of adjustment it can vibrate on and off giving a run poor condition. it is possible to back the idle adjuster out far enough to make the switch not function or function poorly but I don't think the machine would not start with the screw backed out that far. to eliminate it as an issue there are 2 sets of wire coming from the carb find the plug with 2 wires unplug it and jump the 2 prongs in the plug do it on the bike side not the carb side. a yellow female spade connector will slip right on. this completes the circuit and eliminates the switch. if nothing changes it is not the tors circuit plug it back in. it is a good idea to have in place, keep the spade in your tool kit incase one of the switches goes bad on the trail. the tps is a little more complex but still very simple. the tps is a potentiometer that monitors throttle position, the cdi has 3 timing curves to choose from and it picks the proper one by throttle position. the 3 wire plug is your tps, you will need a manual for the exact steps and I have not worked on an 08. on mine you unplug the tps start the bike and check the blue? wire for input voltage mine specs at five volts. set the idle speed and plug it back in and again on mine place the + probe on the yellow? wire and the -one the black? start the bike and check the output voltage mine specs between .58 and .78. loosen the torx screw on the sender and adjust it until it is spec. again CHECK YOUR MANUAL I don't want you to burn out your cdi. if that specs good you have ruled out the potential electrical issues. all that said I still think you have a carb problem. when you put the new jets and needle in did you go through and clean the carb? I have a strong suspicion it may be dirty inside. the float is a dirty bugger to set make sure it is right on, you may not have enough fuel in the bowl. my 05 had very similar issues to what you described and I had done nearly the exact same mods. I thought I found the problem with a smaller main and a new air mixture screw, it was missing the o ring and washer. I put it in and it still ran like crap. I spent three full days and more trips to Yamaha than a care to admit trying to get her to run. after threatening to burn her to the ground I decided to rip everything out and go back to stock, I never road this machine before tearing it down. by absolute luck I dropped the new needle, a properly sized brand new unopened dynojet needle next to the "stock" one low and behold they were night and day different. I put the old stuff in and it purrs now. come to find out I have had some extensive carb work done and factory and standard aftermarket stuff wont work. if you can check the history on the machine and see if any work was done. if I was you I would order up an aftermarket air screw, one with a knob on the bottom so you can adjust it without pulling the carb. mine is a Tokyo mod. disassemble and clean the carb and put it all back together using the manual to insure nothing is missing. I am most suspicious of the float and the dirty carb. if none of the above works start putting the old parts back in until you find the problem.

First thing I did was download the PDF service manual

I am pretty up to speed on how the TORS works.... pretty sure my 92 blaster had it. there was a small microswitch hanging on the bars with electrical tape on it.

The motor turns over, I just dont know the condition of the inside. It came with 2 head with roached cam bearing surfaces. Kid said he got the heads from his cousin who used to own/race these quads. I dunno.... this is an 06, not sure if oil mod was done to it AND there was low oil in the can so who knows how long it was run on low oil. Sickens me how many people dont maintain their machines.

you are doing fine with answering my questions and I will read over things again to make sure I am clear. I would like to do whatever is easiest..... so, if I remove the TORS completely, does that still screw up the timing curves? I read mixed reviews... some guys said they saw no difference by leaving it in WOT curve. What I dont want to have to do it buy new micro swithches and a TPS to get the thing running like it was from the factory. I am OK with the safety factor being removed........ but I want the timing to be correct. Can I still have my cake and eat it if I remove the TORS completely.....? And no, I dont want to hack up the harness. What I would do is crimp in some bullet connectors so that things can be put back to stock later if needed.

tors and tps have nothing to do with one and other and dont rely on one and other for information. the only thing removing the tors does is take away the safety tps will still be fine giving you all 3 timing curves. lots of guys take that black and yellow wire at the bars and just tape them together for the bipass. as to the oil mod i would order a water pump kit and gasket and take that right side off and check it. if it does not need a water pump seal right now it will soon and when you have the side case off you will be able to see if the squirter is there. if it is great if not send it off to be machined. there is a guy on ebay that does it. kinda spooky sending your case off but i talked to the guy on the phone and had no issues at all and he did a great job. this is the guy that did mine https://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-UPGRADE...ZOxa:rk:6:pf:0 but if you live in a real city you may be able to have it done at a local machine shoo

ok so again I am lost... do I jump the TORS by the carb or tape off the switch by the bars? I though there was a connection under the hood too? What are guys talking about with a wire on the CDI?

deleting the TPS will decrease performance?

looking on ebay.... what water pump kit should I get? some guys put together a kit with yamaha parts but there is no shaft/impeller. does that need to be replaced?

you can delete the tors in either place. you have to cut wires if you do it on the bars. if i was going to do it i would do it at the carb. just insert the yellow female spade connector shrink wrap it and tape it to make sure and that is it. if i was going to delete it forever i would spend the 12 bucks on this https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2009-Y...bBYQ:rk:3:pf:0

dont cut anything on or near the cdi its not worth the risk when there is such better places to delete it

if you delete the tps you will lose power on the bottom and mid range. not much but your timing will be incorrect at any rpm below wot

this is the kit i use https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hot-Rod...U1C:rk:31:pf:0 i have not had to replace a shaft but they can get pitted and need replaced.

if the shaft is bad i would use this kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/ModQuad-Wat...ztR:rk:10:pf:0

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