Yfz450 not starting ( electrical problem ) - Yamaha ATV Forum
 
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Yfz450 not starting ( electrical problem )

My 2008 yfz now will not start after sitting for a bit, just clicks at the solenoid! A few days ago i got new swing arm bearings and a chain guide so I took her for a ride now that she was fixed and it worked perfect, started awesome, but after that’s ride it’s been sitting in the shed because we recently got too much snow to ride, and I’ve been starting the quad once a day or maybe once every 2 days, but today I went out and tried to start it and it cranked over fine but didn’t start, then took my finger off the button and tried again and it clicked from the solenoid 2 or 3 times then started turning over again, then once again went back to clicking and now won’t even turn over once just clicks. I didnt think it was a wire grounded out or rubbed because i haven’t used the quad in a while, and we’ve been getting warm weather, then cold, then warm , and now it’s freezing again, could that be why it’s not working right ? Headlights work, tail lights work, neutral light comes on and temp light comes on every time I touch the start button. The battery said it was at full charge when i charged it but could it just be bad enough to where it won’t start the quad ? Heard some people with the same problem solving it by putting in a new battery but I’m not sure if that’s my problem. And insight as to what’s causing this problem would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-05-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Tested the fuse at the 2 contact points with a test light, tested the wire going to the starter from the solenoid at the 2 points, which all have power going to them. one thing I didn’t test was the battery because I don’t have a voltmeter. Could the battery not be pushing enough volts to crank the starter ? Also I’ve heard if the motor is seized this could cause clicking but the bike is kept in a heated shed, started every few days, hadn’t been used in a bit, and had new oil once it stopped wanting to start, so I’m 99% sure that’s not the problem.

Last edited by PZ09; 02-05-2019 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:31 PM
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most likely the battery, jump between the 2 big posts on the solenoid and see if it turns over. check the ground ans the big wire to the starter. then test or replace the battery if you are starting it every day and on running for a minute or 2 the battery does not have enough time to recharge the voltage get low and it kills the battery. you are better of putting a battery tender on it, dont get a cheap one or it will smoke your battery as well. use a genius or battery tender brand.
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Old 02-06-2019, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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It could be the battery but I tested it with 2 different voltmeters and they both said 12.5v which is if I’m not mistaken what they’re supposed to sit at
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Old 02-06-2019, 10:38 AM
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correct on the voltage but it is very common for those batteries to take a surface charge and that is what you are describing. your daily starting without allowing a complete charge would speed the destruction of the plates. there are tons of things it could be and i am not suggesting randomly changing the battery. i am saying it is the most likely component with the limited information i have. my suggestion is to test the battery. first clean the connection, put it on a charger over night and see if that fixes it. if not pull the battery and take it to be tested or put a jump pack on it and see if it spins. if none of those thing fix it we can go from there
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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You could be right, there’s a chance the battery’s shot, but i just found that there’s a single wire that has been disconnected ( no plug or anything Just wire ) that comes from the main wiring harness and is up by the battery and solenoid and all that, so my thought is if it’s important enough to come from the harness it should be doing something, right? I can post a pic if needed

Last edited by PZ09; 02-06-2019 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:41 PM
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the small black wire grounds the harness and the small red wire powers the harness. but the have connectors post a pic and i will see if i can figure it out but again if it is clicking it is likely an amperage issue, the clicking indicates a complete circuit just not enough juice. but we do need to figure out that wire.
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Old 02-07-2019, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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I’ve been studying wiring diagrams but I can’t make much sense of where it would go, I’m thinking it either broke off from the cluster of wires in the white connector that goes into the solenoid, or broke free from the bunch of wires that goes into the little black box that slides off the rubber mount. ( not a very good explanation but I’m not sure what it’s called ) but it’s closest to the right of the solenoid, and also on the mount for the solenoid and that little black box that mounts to the subframe there’s a plastic thing for grouping a single wire on the right side. That and the fact that the wire is not long enough to reach anywhere else makes me think it’s supposed to plug into one of the 2 things mentioned. One more thing to mention, you said there’s a connector on that wire but we may be thinking about different kinds of connectors, there was a male to female connector that me and my buddies thought was the root of another problem so we cut both of them off and spliced them together. Anyways that’s not the connector that’s at fault, the wire goes another 4 inches or so before it’s cut off. I can’t seem to post a pic either as it says the files too big.
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:17 AM
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one thing at a time. the broken wire is probably not you current problem. its a problem but not the one causing your clicking unless it is not clicking a the solenoid and it is clicking at the start relay. ( probably the little black box you are referring to. there should be 2 1 is the start relay and the other is the neutral relay) if the clicking is indeed at the solenoid your start circuit is complete and the problem has to be a bad battery, bad solenoid, bad wiring between the solenoid and the starter, bad starter, frozen starter clutch or seized motor. i feel like i am repeating myself but here goes. you have to rule things out one at a time there is no short cut.

step 1: charge the battery overnight on a 2 amp charger and see if it cranks in the morning. if it does test the rectifier and stator to make sure it is putting out 13. 2-8 volts. if it is you problem was just not letting the battery charge long enough after your starts. if it does not test the battery at an auto parts store or use a jump pack to start it. if it starts with the jump pack or the battery tests out of spec replace the battery and go back to the start.

step 2: battery is good and wont crank even with a jump pack. test the solenoid. jump between the 2 big posts on the solenoid. if it cranks test the red and blue small wires as per the instructions in the manual you should get a 12 plus volt signal from the start button if you get the signal and it wont crank test between the 2 big posts. should be a normally open circuit and closed when you hit the button. if you have signal and the solenoid passes go to step 3. if there is not signal you will have to trace the red and blue wires to find the short. if the solenoid fails the jump test or fails to close with a signal from the red/blue wire replace the solenoid.

step 3: hit the button and see if you have 12 volts to the big black wire on top of the starter. if no check the connection there and the ground wire to the motor. if you have 12 volts to the starter go to step 4

step 4: pull the starter and bench test it, use a jump pack and hook the black lead to the case and the red lead to the post on top and turn on the jump pack. ( make sure you have the starter clamped down) if it spins go to step 5 if not replace the starter.

step 5: put the machine on jacks stands with the rear wheels of the ground, put the machine into second gear and spin the rear wheels. if the motor turns over( you may have to pull the plug ) investigate the starter clutch if it does not turn over your motor is seized. ( this is what mine was when i had your symptoms) not uncommon in a yfz.

as to the broken wire and posting a pic. yo will need to go in and set your camera to the lowest resolution and crop it to get it under the file size. i have a manual so the wire color may help me figure it out. the other option is to create a youtube and post the link
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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this is the wire, and I think I found where it goes, on the negative wire coming from the battery perhaps? From pictures I’ve seen it looks to be attatched to the bare wire on the negative cable as a ground for everything connected to it, may be wrong but worth a shot. Oh and sorry for making you repeat your self, got a little bit ahead of my self there whoops 😀
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:52 AM
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its hard to tell on the close up but i think you are right. to say for sure i would need to see the wire on the other side of the wire nut. obviously that is not factory. to fix that you will need to open the harness, trace that wire back some and solder/shrink wrap a new piece in there and add a connector that matches the one on the neg battery cable. looks like there has been a real "pro" working on that machine at some point, it might be worth pulling that harness and giving it a good inspection and getting rid or any household wires and connections. any repair should be made with solder and shrink wrap or the new expensive low heat solder, shrink wrap butt connectors. simple crimp on connectors just wont do. no worries on repeating my self. i get frustrated sometimes when there are new questions that depend on answers to questions i have already asked and not got answers to. i know everyone just wants to ride but in order not to wast tons of time on an electrical issue you have to go step by step
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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The real “ pro “ happens to be me, and it was a really good fix and was holding up until that end that shows bare wire came disconnected if the orange connector is what you are referring to. Also what would opening up the harness do? I don’t think there’s anything wrong besides where the harness ends towards the rear of the quad, although it wouldn’t hurt to tidy everything up I do not currently have time to go pulling everything off the quad to tidy up wires that may or may be the problem. That orange connector is the only part of the wiring that’s not factory so I don’t see anything wrong with the rest of the black wire that recedes in the harness.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:36 PM
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when you are trying to track down an electrical issue and see home wiring parts in the mix it is generally an indication that the harness could be suspect. yamaha harnesses are not the best to start with and prone to wire rubs and shorts. if you are confidant that the rest of it is good then by all means proceed. i am not trying to be insulting but repairs like your wire nut are what cause premature death in these machines, in this case it worked for a while but it did fail and will fail again if you dont fix it correctly. but again feel free it is you bike and you pushing it home. i have been repairing and restoring power equipment for better than 30 years and try to give professional advise verified by me. i never pass on rumors or internet quick fixes. i spend 1-2 hours a day answering questions trying to save guys like you money and help them build dependable trail rigs. i dont get a thing out of it. if you dont want my help just say the word.
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Didn’t mean to come off as an ass your help is very appreciated, but asking questions is half of learning. I wasn’t doubting your skills or what you know I’m just trying to get a little more insight my self. And I also laughed when you said the thing about the real “pro” because I know I’m not the best when it comes to wiring, I’m more mechanically inclined, but we can all learn eh. Any ways I’m gonna take into account every thing you’ve told me and go step my step with it when I’ve got the time.

Last edited by PZ09; 02-09-2019 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:58 AM
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ok i am happy to help. electrical demons are a real pia and ruling out components step by step is the key to success. these carb yfz are kinda my specialty so we can make it like new again. there are some really good you tubes on soldering and wire harness repair. it it pretty easy and does not really cost any more to do it correctly. it funny i am restoring a prairie 360 right now and nearly done. when i got it it did not have a battery but would start with the pull start so i figured it was all good. finally got it mechanically repaired and threw a battery in it and had nothing, not so much as a dash light. i went to tracing wires and found the original main fuse had been replaces with a blade type fuse holder and when they did it they used the wrong size crimp, they did shrink wrap it so it looked good but the splice didnt make contact. all to save a 5 cents worth of solder.

Last edited by cory52000; 02-09-2019 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Once I figure out a little more about the wiring and whatnot of this quad I think I’m gonna pull the harness and inspect everything carefully and clean it all up. Also what would be a good fix for the wire nut? One more thing, if I put a screwdriver across the 2 posts of the solenoid, nothing happens at all, it’s supposed to turn the motor over isn’t it?

Last edited by PZ09; 02-09-2019 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:46 AM
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they way i splice those is strip the wire back (dont twist it leave it as is), slide some shrink tube down the wire, mesh the 2 wires by intermixing the t wires and twisting them together, apply some flux and solder the joint, slide the shrink tube over the joint, shrink it and then cover it with electrical tape. here is a good youtube
you can also use a product like this
. stay away from wire nuts. standard crimp style connectors will work but they have a pretty high long term fail rate.

if you are jumping between the 2 big posts and have a fully charged battery and it is not spinning it narrows it down to 3 possibilities bad starter, bad starter clutch, or a seized motor. put the red lead of your meter on the post with the black wire on the starter and the black lead on the neg side of the battery. jump between the 2 big posts you should see 12 volts on the meter. if not inspect the connections and wires between the solenoid and the starter. if you do see voltage on the meter go to step 4 in the above post.
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Old 02-10-2019, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Figured itd be handy to have a soldering gun so I went and picked one up today since I got a few light bars to hook and scattered wiring here and there so I’m gonna properly fix that wire and ground it where it’s supposed to be. As for jumping the posts on the solenoid it doesn’t even spark, doesn’t even try to do anything, not sure if that would make a difference in how to fix but thought I’d mention it incase

Last edited by PZ09; 02-10-2019 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 02-10-2019, 05:15 PM
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if it is not sparking the battery is either dead or the cable is broken or has a bad connection. check to see if there is voltage to the big post with the red wire
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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How would I check the voltage to the big post? And what wire could be damaged?
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