2005 yfz not charging - Yamaha ATV Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-12-2017, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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2005 yfz not charging

ok im having a problem of my bike not charging. i know about the reistor mod and i called my local yamaha dealer and they are discontinued and not available anywhere. i dont have lights on my bike at all. could i buy a newer voltage regulator and splice or should i buy a replacement 05. also when i make a sharp left turn the bike wants to turn off. stage 3 hot cams 13:1 gytr compression vp110, gytr needle. 145main and 35 pilot. full sparks exhaust. thanks
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-12-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by haydenyfz450 View Post
ok im having a problem of my bike not charging. i know about the reistor mod and i called my local yamaha dealer and they are discontinued and not available anywhere. i dont have lights on my bike at all. could i buy a newer voltage regulator and splice or should i buy a replacement 05. also when i make a sharp left turn the bike wants to turn off. stage 3 hot cams 13:1 gytr compression vp110, gytr needle. 145main and 35 pilot. full sparks exhaust. thanks


Don't the headlights have to be on for this year of bike to charge?
Your jetting seems very lean to me, may not be though, my bike is 14:1, Exhaust, ported head, and intake. I'm running a 48 pilot and a 175 main with needle on the top position.


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post #3 of 9 Old 05-12-2017, 10:14 AM
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the 04-05 will charge without the lights on just not at low speeds. it would be tough to add the 06 and up resistor (you can get them on ebay) to an 05, the harness is different. it is possible but probably not worth the effort. my guess is that is not your problem. do an ohms test on your stator. my guess is it will fail or you rectifier is bad. either way the the best solution it to get the high output stator/rectifier combo from ricks motor sports. the kit solves all the factory problems and give you a little more juice if want to ad leds or heated grips

i would need to know your elevation to comment on the jetting, pull your plug and take a look at it. it should look like chocolate milk if it is white or leaning to white you are too lean.

in general motion related stalling can be traced to improper float level. my guess is your float is too low. not enough fuel in the bowl and when you make the turn you starve for fuel. another possibility is cable routing, specifically your tors cable. if it is being stretch to far it could be messing with the tors switch
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-13-2017, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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i ran a 45p and a 175 main and it would just stall and die all the time no matter needle position. 1200' elevation. it starts decent and runs and idles smooth. i think my jetting is very close but ill pull the plug and see. i put a new high output stator in it already and no luck and honestly may put the old one back in because its leaking out from where the wires come out. i tried setting my float height as per the manual but i would honestly hit a tree root and it would almost cut off.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-20-2017, 10:09 AM
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did you put a quality high output or just one of the ebay ones? they will all leak if you dont use sealant around the rubber plug. i use the grey permatex gasket sealer, just put a little bit in the u of the case and smash the plug into it and make sure it oozes out. i also squirt a little silicone in the plastic tube where wires come out of to keep the water out. another possibility with the stalling is a loose or cracked carb boot. i have never had a high comp piston but 175 sounds like too much and 145 is too lean. i run a 170 in my 502 stroker with cams at sea level and it seams perfect. if i had to guess 160 ish for you but again i dont know how the hi comp piston effects jetting. did you have your carb on its side when you set the float? the tab has to touch the spring pin but not compress it. if you do it upside down it will not be accurate. also check the tors connection at the carb. it is the grey plug with 2 wires, make sure you are getting good contact.
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-24-2017, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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charging issue is resolved with ricks stator and voltage regulator. no leaks from the new plug either i put rtv on the "new" one that didnt fix it it was a cheapo off ebay and is now in the garbage. ok but the sputtering and wanting to die in anything other than flat straight line still remains. yes it has plenty of fuel. i believe i am running a bit lean. the carb boot is less than a year old(oem). my current settings are 3rd pos from top on needle a 140 and a 35. my brother has a trx 450r with relatively the same mods and he runs a 170 and a 42 on the 4th clip.(high comp piston stage 3 cams qs 3 vp110.) i do know his carb is a 42mm i think and mine is like a 39mm? maybe? anyways when my bike was stock the jetting was just about as perfect as you could get. 4th clip 45p and a 175m. its just annoying that i have put all this money into the engine but cant get the jetting and float height correct. tomorrow im gonna set the float height to 8mm and put a 38p and about a 155 main and 4th clip and see what happens.
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-24-2017, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by haydenyfz450 View Post
charging issue is resolved with ricks stator and voltage regulator. no leaks from the new plug either i put rtv on the "new" one that didnt fix it it was a cheapo off ebay and is now in the garbage. ok but the sputtering and wanting to die in anything other than flat straight line still remains. yes it has plenty of fuel. i believe i am running a bit lean. the carb boot is less than a year old(oem). my current settings are 3rd pos from top on needle a 140 and a 35. my brother has a trx 450r with relatively the same mods and he runs a 170 and a 42 on the 4th clip.(high comp piston stage 3 cams qs 3 vp110.) i do know his carb is a 42mm i think and mine is like a 39mm? maybe? anyways when my bike was stock the jetting was just about as perfect as you could get. 4th clip 45p and a 175m. its just annoying that i have put all this money into the engine but cant get the jetting and float height correct. tomorrow im gonna set the float height to 8mm and put a 38p and about a 155 main and 4th clip and see what happens.


Have you messed with the air fuel mixture at all?



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post #8 of 9 Old 05-26-2017, 11:06 AM
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that sounds like a good place to start but you might still be a little lean. i am not an expert in the high comp stuff but assume it takes more fuel and makes more heat. keep an eye on your plug to make sure. as far as setting the float when you have the bowl off note the level of the overflow tube, usually around the height of the top of the bowl. set your float. place a clear tube long enough to wrap around and reach slightly higher than the carb on the bowl drain nipple. zip tie the tube above the carb and open the drain. the fuel should rise to just below the level of the overflow. this will ensure you have the float perfect and can rule it out as an issue.
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-01-2017, 03:39 AM
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I sell the Rectifier MOD complete if interested. Its only for YFZ's with NO lights. It is the same as Yamaha use to sell just without the bracket.

YFZ 470 MXP YMX1, GT Thunder, ARS-FX, AXIS, Rekluse, Hipers, Fourwerx Carbon, RPM, Houser, Fasstco, IMS, WC,TMD, HMF, CV4, Precision, TireBlocks, OMI,RJR, Pro Built 2011,
YFZ 460, GT Thunder, Houser, Quadtech, WhiteBros carbon, CV4, Hipers, Mud Motorsports
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