03 660 Cannot find answer to choke plunger ? - Yamaha ATV Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-23-2018, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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03 660 Cannot find answer to choke plunger ?

Hey everyone!

I have not posted many times on here. But I have been able to do every single bit of maintenance on my 2003 Raptor 660R with the Carbon Fiber hood because of this website. I have completely tore down the entire intake system, rebuilt the carburetor completely (well as complete as I could within reason) and have no landed on something I am not sure of. I have spent a nice little chunk of change buying tools and small things in order to make this entire carburetor and intake system brand new. I updated the air filter to a UNI air filter, using 240 Ė 2200 grit wet sand paper and a dremel with a stone ported and polished the entire inside of the carb matching them to the hoses and to the head to a mirror shine.

I went to put the choke back onto the carb last night and ran into an issue. When cleaning the carb (every inch possible with wire brushes) I noticed the hole where the choke plunger went which came out easily is simply a hole with a small brass metal hole at the end. Itís obvious the plunger for the choke slides back and forth allowing a little more or less fuel. Well I put a new O ring on the plunger and it didnít slide in easily. Well the metal plunger itself has a tip, the tip on mine is loose and moves up, down, and around in almost a circle if I wanted. It came out like this. Is it broken?

Shouldnít that tip be stiff so itís snug when sliding it back and forth inside the hole so it plugs that brass hole?

Before doing this carburetor rebuild I did a lot research and seen lots of people having a hard time getting there choke cable unhooked. Mine came out no problem at all and the spring is still gold looking new. So does the stem at the end of this little metal plunger move or is it stiff? I just donít feel like spending another $20 on a new one and having to wait another 5 days before I can ride this quad. I figured one of you guys might have one laying around you can look at or would have experience with this part.

JMH
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-23-2018, 01:05 PM
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i dont remember from when i did mine but looking at the schematic it is multiple pieces so i would expect some movement and the carb body to keep it in line but thats just an educated guess. hopefully digger is around he has done a ton of these and i am sure he knows
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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I would very much appreciate it if you would bump some of the veteran ppl in here that you know would have an idea on this or I'm going to have to order it today just to find out.

JMH
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 11:12 AM
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i sent him a pm. he is usually around every few days. i looked a lot of pictures of the plunger and there is not any with the exact detail but it looks like the needle floats in the barrel and i suspect your is fine. (how would you break that) you can easily access the choke after it is assembled so if digger does not get back to you i would install it and see if it works. worst case it is a little hard to start until you get your new one. as far as the choke being tight after the new o ring. did you get an oem one or try to use a generic. if the latter did you use a properly sized metric o-ring. i have never had much luck using an off the shelf o-ring in a carb. they just never fit quite right.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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I used one from a carburetor rebuild kit but there were extras so I guess it could have been wrong. I'll toss the old one back on there (I hope I kept it, I usually keep everything just in case). When I put the old one next to the one from the kit they looked to be the same size. I just can't believe that tip would move around like that when it has to close that hole off. I just don't understand the point of movement but I'm no engineer. I wish I could find a simple push pull one like on my Warrior so I could remove that whole stupid assembly of the handle bars.

JMH
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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How could you break that? My guess would be the rubber stub that goes over it is held down by a metal wrapped lip. If you were to slam the choke switch back and forth it might loosen it? I was thinking of drilling a hole into a piece of wood and lightly tapping the plunger with a small soft mallet possibly tightening the tip back up.

JMH
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 12:45 PM
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look at the pin in this link it appears to be doing just what you described https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-RAPT...0AAOSwS9pZdknK

i did a google search on 660 choke mod and there is some info out there about a harley choke but the links were old. dennis kirk used to sell a kit but i could not find it on there web site. you might try to call them.

looking at images of the warrior choke and the raptor chock they sure look close, you might try it. i would think if it was that easy someone else would have tried.
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-30-2018, 09:54 AM
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Do you have a picture of your choke plunger? It may be broken into two pieces. If i remember correctly there should be a short needle/nub on the end. The brass piece your seeing may be part of the plunger still stuck in the carb.

The plunger should glide in out with little resistance, the spring has to be able to re-seat the plunger when you shut the choke off.

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post #9 of 10 Old 06-04-2018, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Fixed

I figured it out, the o ring I was using in my rebuild kit was way to thick. It was a 4mm oring I needed. works perfect now


Thank You for all your help

JMH
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-04-2018, 10:20 PM
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good news
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