New slipping problem?? Tranny or clutch?? - Yamaha ATV Forum
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By cory52000
  • 1 Post By cory52000
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 Old 04-17-2017, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
walzy444's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Derry, NH
Posts: 10
New slipping problem?? Tranny or clutch??

Got my 03 660 running again, upped the jets to 150/155 and 27 pilot, moved needles to 3rd clip and had way better torque and power and cut way down on the backfiring.. also there is no parking brake, and rev switch is grounded. It still slightly bogged out in 1st at 3/4 - full throttle.. might have to play with the mixing screws now.. anyways. Went out to the woods with my bf Easter morning to test it out on the straight aways.. he has a raptor 350. I was riding my 660 fine the whole time besides the slight bogging at 3/4 throttle on the straight aways.. but no stalling out. he had just put a new chain on his and it snapped off while doing a burn out...the link popped off. soo he took my quad back to his house to get a tow strap (I dont know my way back thro the woods) he kinda revs the hell out of it and every time he rides it he stalls it out a lot. Hes ridden sport bikes and stunted them most of his life and has his 350 now... i dont have a problem with it stalling.. not really sure what he is doing.. its def a different clutch feel than his 350 because I have ridden his a few times.. Im just use to the 660 clutch I guess.. you almost have to ride the clutch a bit so it doesnt stall in 1st.. its a bit touchy.. and its kinda of hard to shift up into second.. if I lightly shift I sometimes put it in neutral.. (I use to have a yamaha YZF600r street bike and it was the same exact way with having to hard shift up into second.. and its kinda difficult to put into neutral,, gotta play w it a few times.. same with the raptor 660)

Ok sooo I thought the raptor 660 was running way better than before.. after jetting and was super happy.. so we had to tow his bike home through the woods.. he drove my 660 and i sat on his 350 so less weight.. he kept stalling my 660 out, going thro mud, trying to go over logs, in turns ect.. We got finally back to his yard and he was like its not really moving... we untied his bike and he was giving my 660 gas and releasing the clutch and it would rev up like it was going but the wheels barely moved..it would be in gear.. the engine rev did not match the wheel speed at all, would go at a slow speed like it was slipping or barely catching to spin the wheels.. he drove it around the house and it slowly picked up speed.. then drove it into the garage.. he said I think your tranny is shot.. im like oh wtfff :( (We then had to leave to Easter lunch.. so i didnt test it after that..) I just got it running again, this suckssss.. to me it sounds like the clutch is sliping... the guy i bought it from messed around in the shifter side of the case (replaced the case cover without a gasket and it was leaking oil like crazy... I think he said he replaced the clutch cable.. maybe he said the clutch too i forgot.. deff the cable because it looks new.. I need to lube the cable also because it its not smooth, kinda sticks...sometimes like clicks hard at the lever.
When i put the gasket on the case I obviously did a full oil change w k&n filter.. filled with Yamalube All Purpose 4 Four Stroke Oil 10w-40.. case still leaked sooo drained it again and had to use permatex aviation form-a-gasket on the gasket and that finally sealed it.. so it got a 2x oil flush (flushed the upper reservoir as well the first time.. ran it and added more accordingly. bla bla..

Sooo my question is.. before I buy a transmission gear kit.. (I obviously dont want to split the case and deal with that crap..) does this even sound like a transmission problem?? or a clutch plate slip problem or clutch cable adjustment problem?

If the transmission is slipping I feel it would be making a grinding noise or not even makes the wheels spin at all if the fork snapped.. (i had a 650 streetfighter w 2nd gear forks snapped and it acted like neutral in 2nd...) and it doesn't make any bad noises.. just revs and slowly spins the wheels.. almost like a belt is just slipping and spinning but not fully grabbing to spin the axle... Not sure if he burned something out by towing his quad.. or messed something up by stalling out so much.. any input would be great, thanks!
walzy444 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 04-17-2017, 11:23 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 1,795
Garage
it is definitely not your transmission it is your clutch. that clutch was never designed for the load you put on it towing the raptor, you can make a 660 clutch slip pretty good just buy dumping the clutch. my guess is if you check you oil it will be black and stinky, full of clutch dust. the added weight, mud bogging and log crossings while towing most likely did it in. compared to the carb work you have done the clutch will be easy but the raptor 660 clutch is one of the toughest out there to change. with the exception of the the bikes being way to dirty to work on there ar 2 good videos on youtube that walk you through step by step. you will need to pull the water pump and drain the coolant so dont forget the gaskets for that, you will need fresh oil and a new filter. use a tusk clutch kit with heavy duty springs, they are the best bang for the buck clutches i have used. it even hold up on my hopped up yfz. you will need an 8 mm ratcheting end wrench or a lot of patients to get the lower case bolts out. getting the case in and out of the frame takes some practice, again watch the video. put you new clutch in a zip lock and soak it overnight in the yamalube. you dont need a bunch just suck the air out of the bag so all of the fibers are covered. unlike most off road machines the pressure plate is indexed on a 660, mark it when you remove it and put it back on the same way. tighten the bolts on the pressure plate evenly and use blue locktight on clean bolts when you put it back together (dont use the red). the throw out rod is a little tricky to readjust, get a good feel for how it works and feels before you pull the case. after you have the new clutch loaded practice putting the case on and adjusting the throw out rod without the gasket in place until you can do it with ease. the lower left hand corner where the problem bolt is is very easy to rip. dont do like the guy in the video, power wash your machine until it is clean enough to eat off of before you open anything up. dirt inside is bad very bad. stalling didnt hurt you clutch it was the towing but dont let your boyfriend near your quad anymore lol. if i missed anything or you have any more questions let me know. i just did one 2 weeks ago so it is still pretty fresh even for my feeble mind.

Last edited by cory52000; 04-17-2017 at 11:25 AM.
cory52000 is offline  
post #3 of 7 Old 04-17-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
walzy444's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Derry, NH
Posts: 10
Ok awesome! So clutch like I thought.. Thank you!

The heavy duty tusk "complete kits" have plates, spacers, springs and new gasket. Do you think the basket teeth got screwed up? I mean in theory I can use my oem basket and pressure plate... and replace the burned out plates/springs... or is it not grabbing because the teeth broke off the basket? Im leaning towards the plates just being glazed over...

Also.. if I do need a new basket, i was looking at the Weisco ones.. can you use the OEM pressure plate with that basket?

Hopefully the case is easier to put back on than the other side with the shift lever in the way.. that was a pain but I succeeded haha are the torque specs the same 7.2lb as the other side?

Last edited by walzy444; 04-17-2017 at 12:39 PM.
walzy444 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 7 Old 04-17-2017, 01:35 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 1,795
Garage
i would not plan on a new basket. i am pretty sure the teeth are not broke you would hear that. if it is excessively worn you might have to replace it but they will work fine in pretty rough shape. unless you are planning on adding a bunch of power or racing i would just find a good used basket if you end up needing one. i you want to spend the money wiesco makes good parts. and yes you can use your stock pressure plate with the wiesco basket.

yes you can use your stock pressure plate and basket

yes on the torque for the small case bolts and i think 10 on the pressure plate but check you manual to be sure. i go more by feel and stick to the lighter side and use blue locktite on everything.

you will need to remove the foot peg, heel guard, brake assembly in addition to the other things i mentioned. you might be able to work around them but it faster and easier just to remove that stuff. and no the right side case is harder than the left to do but it will make sense after you watch the video. it is not hard you just have to be patient and methodical.
walzy444 likes this.
cory52000 is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 04-18-2017, 09:09 AM
Crowd Control
 
diggerzmound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 8,514
Garage
Send a message via AIM to diggerzmound Send a message via Yahoo to diggerzmound
You probably will not like their springs, it makes the clutch pull pretty heavy. I put my stock springs back in.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax, 07' Nytro(b00sTed)
06' Vmax 1200
diggerzmound is offline  
post #6 of 7 Old 04-18-2017, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
walzy444's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Derry, NH
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by diggerzmound View Post
You probably will not like their springs, it makes the clutch pull pretty heavy. I put my stock springs back in.
Hmm I didnt think of that.. I did order the adjustable levers.. i have kinda of small hands and its a stretch to reach and grab my levers.. i was thinking with the adjustable i can make the clutch pull a bit shorter.. (did it for my motorcycle.. my raptor clutch is really squishy right now, so added stiffness shouldnt be too bad.. ill test the pull before I put my peg and stuff back on.. Thanks for the tip!
walzy444 is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 04-19-2017, 01:45 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 1,795
Garage
i did the heavy tusk springs in mine (its my wifes bike) and she has very small hands and she preferred the tusk springs but she hated the heavy ones in a warrior she had
walzy444 likes this.
cory52000 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha ATV Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Problem with tranny main axle oiler plugs MolonLabe Yamaha YFM660R Raptor (2001-2005) 2 10-28-2016 07:53 AM
'05 Bruin 350 / Oil in Clutch & Drive Band Housing MarkC Other Models/Brands 7 07-31-2016 10:14 PM
Tranny problem Stanley420 Yamaha YFM660R Raptor (2001-2005) 2 03-08-2016 08:55 PM
Banshee clutch problem. Shonagh Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee (1987-Present) 5 01-16-2016 02:38 AM
clutch problem moneymoore Yamaha YFM350 Raptor/Warrior ('87-Present) 8 12-21-2015 04:14 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome