1992 Yamaha Warrior Sputter - Yamaha ATV Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-23-2019, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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1992 Yamaha Warrior Sputter

Hello all,

I have a 1992 Yamaha warrior with a bad sputter when I apply any throttle after idle. The clutch safety sensor and the parking brake is completely gone so I know those are not the problems. I have tried rebuilding the carb, changed out the stator, ignition coil and just adjusted the timing to be within spec. Can anyone help me with this? Also, while riding, if I let off the throttle to coast it will shut off like I turned the key off.
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post #2 of 14 Old 09-23-2019, 05:08 PM
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Have u pulled the pitcock apart n make sure its clean? My have some trash in it from fuelin up. That could give enough fuel to idle, but not enuf wen u throttle. Is your float set right? I know u said u just rebuilt the carb, but ive had it happen myself. Thats all i cna think of at the moment

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post #3 of 14 Old 09-23-2019, 06:45 PM
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is the air filter clean. why did you change all of those parts, did they test bad or were you just guessing? did you put a new plug in it? what brand of parts did you use. check the valves and the intake boot. when did it start to run poorly? have you changed anything
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post #4 of 14 Old 09-23-2019, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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I have not checked the petcock yet, but I will now. I believe I have the float set correctly. I had the carb apart quite a few times. I will verify this though.
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-23-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yes the air filter is clean. Yes they tested bad with a multi-meter according to the specs in the service manual. Yes new plug. it's an NGK but I can't remember the number off the top of my head. The stator is one of the cheap ones off of amazon. Do you think this could cause this problem? If yes, what brand do you recommend? The valves were adjusted yesterday and the intake boot is free of holes and is in good condition. I purchased the quad this way and have been troubleshooting it ever since. Thank you for the help so far.
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-24-2019, 10:17 AM
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it could be the stator i have had problems with the cheap stators and pickup. i use either ricks motorsports or ricky stator. rocky mountain atv also is a good choice. but check the new ones with a meter, dont just dump them. there should be a green wire hooked to the forward reverse lever remove it from the switch and put an eye on it and ground it under the shift lever mount bolt. it controls the rev limiter for reverse and fails often. be careful it will do full throttle in reverse now.
is the stutter throughout the throttle range or does it clear up on the top?
make sure they unplugged the switch when they deleted the brake. here is what i am getting at. when you do the deletes you plug the 2 wires from the clutch switch into each other and simply unplug the brake switch, make sure they did not put a jumper or something for the switch. that would make the cdi think the brake is on.
run the orange wire that goes to the primary coil they can sometimes get routed incorrectly and melt on the head
honestly what you describe sounds like carb (if grounding the green wire does not fix it ) but if you are confident in your carb building skills my next step would be to pull the harness and check for shorts. i have had 3 warriors and had to do it on all of them they are prone to rubs and shorts.
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post #7 of 14 Old 09-24-2019, 10:19 AM
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also check the baffle, i have had the packing come loose and blow back into the baffle/spark arrestor and plug it causing similar symptoms
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post #8 of 14 Old 10-06-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for all the help this far. A quick update: After playing with the carb some more and no resolution with the issues I went ahead and bought another carb. The one that was on there was a aftermarket Chinese one anyway. Installed the new one yesterday and it's running much better! Has a little big at about 3/4 throttle but that's about it. The only problem I have now is the shutting off while I am coasting. It will run great and then I let go of the throttle and the engine will just shut off. It still does this even with the clutch pulled (I know it shouldn't make a difference since the switch is not hooked up). Any ideas what this could be? I was thinking the secondary/excitor coil but not sure. It will start right back up after this as well with no problem and run fine.
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post #9 of 14 Old 10-07-2019, 09:52 AM
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did you ground that green wire? check all of you connections for a loose wire and test your stator and pickup coils
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post #10 of 14 Old 10-08-2019, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Yes the green wire is grounded and I went through all the wiring. I cleaned up a few connections that looked leery and added dielectric grease and a few others I removed all electrical tape to inspect the wiring and they all seemed to be okay. Added new electrical tape and placed back on. I tested the charging coil, pickup coil, spark plug cap, primary, secondary ignition coils, source coil, and the pickup coils. The only one that tested out of spec was the pickup coil at about 500 ohms. Could this be causing too much resistance and a no spark at coasting speeds? I suggest this because there would not be much voltage going through this system at that time. Am I thinking correctly? Please correct me and explain if I am not on the right track. Thank you.
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post #11 of 14 Old 10-08-2019, 09:48 AM
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well if it is out of spec it could be the problem but i am not sure your theory is sound. i assume you are running the battery. if so between the regulator /rectifier and the battery any highs and low will wash out. even if the stator drops clear out at low rpm the battery would take over. also the "voltage " would be even lower when you are trying to start it and you say it starts right back up. the pickup does not use voltage to create the spark. it is just a magnetic impulse that tells the cdi to make the spark. if that trigger/impulse is out of spec it could confuse the cdi possibly worse at low speed.

try this and post the results if you can
test the resting battery voltage
test the voltage at the battery when the machine is running
jack up the rear wheels, put a drill or something on the axle nut, pull the plug and spin the motor. test the AC voltage coming out of the stator. test it just like you tested the ohms just us the ac portion of your meter.

make sure the battery has a good over night charge and try running it with the regulator/rectifier unplugged and see if it makes a difference for you
the clutch switch has nothing to do with the run circuit it simply activates or deactivates the start relay, it is simply a safety switch to keep you from starting it in gear.

i am assuming the symptom is exactly the same with the old and new carb.

just confirming clutch pulled in and coasting the motor dies? will it restart if you let the clutch out and give it some fuel or do you have to stop to get it to restart.

have you set the idle speed to spec. if you set it by ear it is probably too low spec is faster than what sounds correct to my ear.

as far as your bog goes there is a mod for the accelerator pump spring, just google it there are lots of write up on it. it might help but it is probably a jetting issue try 1 up on the main and see what that does and then try one down. another option is to order a custom kit from sigma they will custom make a kit for your elevation and mods and they are pretty cheap.

will it idle?

i am trying to rule out a dragging clutch and a bad rectifier
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post #12 of 14 Old 10-09-2019, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the clarification and the explanation.

To answer your questions: Yes I am running with a battery. Yes the symptom is the same with both carbs. Yes the motor will die with or without the clutch pulled in and yes if I let the clutch out it will start back up on its own. I have only set the idle by ear. I will check those videos out and play around with the jets if need be. Yes it idles well.

I will test out your suggestions in the next few days and report back my findings. Thank you again for the help and taking time to write all this up.
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post #13 of 14 Old 10-09-2019, 10:14 AM
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no problem
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post #14 of 14 Old Yesterday, 08:28 PM
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The pickup resistance should be 275 Ω so 500 is a problem. What is the exciter resistance?
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