Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: southern oregon
i am willing to help for sure. not sure what the deal is on pics try logging in on your phone and upload them directly.
1) a ground is a ground as long as it is good. the frame was never directly grounded to the battery but it wont hurt. there should be a large diameter black wire going from the -battery to the back of the motor and a small black wire that pigtails into the large one and connects to the harness with a bullet connector on the left side of the bike by the battery.
2) i am actually having the same heat issue with a bayou 300 right now (it is with the field wires not the pickup like yours) and i have not solved it. it almost has to be a short or broken wire increasing the load somewhere. my guess is it is a side effect and will cure its self. mine melted the connector and the issue i am having now is how hot is to hot i have never had occasion feel one before. in my case i think it all leads to me not following my own advice and using a cheap cdi but we will see.
3)that is perfect as long as it does not spike when you jab the throttle. 12.45 is your resting voltage (in other words the voltage stored in the battery) the 14.5 is the regulated voltage from the stator. when the stator spins it puts out a/c voltage as high as 20 volts depending on rpms it sends that through the white wires to the regulator/rectifier where it is converted to d/c and dampend to the 14.5 volts you are seeing on your meter
4) good guess if you did not blow the fuse at the same time.
5) i will have to see a wiring diagram to help with this one but you will need to test the switch and the starter relay for starters.
6) you will need to determine if the problem is electrical or mechanical, it could be either. the starter is not a standard bendix style starter that most people are familiar with. the starter is engaged to the motor at all times via a one way clutch. when it sticks test the positive lead from the battery at the starter for voltage. there should be no voltage. if there is no voltage it is mechanical and will likely need a starter clutch. if there is voltage you will need to figure out where it is coming from. unbolt the lead that runs from the starter to the solenoid, at the solenoid and check for voltage (this will be tough to do with out shorting , consider putting some tape on your wrench) while the machine is still running and the starter stuck check the lead for voltage and then the solenoid. if there is voltage on the lead the starter is being overdriven and is turning itself into a dc generator and backfeeding the machine and that alone could cause some of your issues. if the bike dies or the lead is dead and there is voltage on the solenoid lug you just unhooked you either have a 3rd bad solenoid or there is a short in the switch wires, the 2 small wires on the solenoid (possibly blue and red) the solenoid is nothing more than a high amperage switch, the small wires carry a small amp load to open and close the switch. one will be power and one ground. again if memory serves (check your diagram) power should come to the grey button from the cdi, through the switch to the start relay, if all of the safety switch are in the correct position or bypassed the relay will be closed and power will travel to the solenoid, close the switch and then to ground. if that lug is hot without pushing the button and the starter lead unhooked you are picking up 12volts somewhere and will need to find the short.
so on my 87 and my 96 i had similar gremlins and i repaired the harness i had. most of the hacks in a harness are to bypass safety switches or remove lights for "racing" and are generally superficial in the harness and can easily be found on your wiring diagram. i did a lot of tail chasing to no avail. i ended up pulling the entire harness from the machine, starting at one end unwrapping the harness and repairing shorts and rubs as i went in small sections rewraping as i went. then i cleaned and repaired all of the connections and reinstalled the harness. it took less that 4 hours and then i new for sure that i was not chasing gremlins and could rule out hardware. if you do it take your time, dont unwrap to much at one time, use heat shrink and solder for your repairs, test that you have continuity through all of the pins in every connection. they are easily bent and may not make contact. take lots of pictures for routing. dont try to add convoluted tubing to make it look good and be stronger it wont work and will make you cuss a lot and then you will have to remove it to get the harness back in. yamaha had a horrible plan making an entire wiring harness out of cheap electrical tape and bare wires but it worked for the first 20 years so repaired correctly it should last another 20 and it will then be some other poor bastards problem lol. my guess is any new harness will come smelling strongly of chineseium and will have its own demons to evict.
it has been my experience that when the standard troubleshooting methods dont work you have to drop back to step one and positively rule things out one at a time. it is super frustrating and seems like the long way around when all you want to do is ride but in the long run it will save you time and money.
Last edited by cory52000; 11-30-2017 at 09:29 AM.