'99 warrior is there a aftermarket or oem harness? - Yamaha ATV Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-28-2017, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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'99 warrior is there a aftermarket or oem harness?

Does anyone know where to go to get a new wiring harness for a '99 warrior. I've had it!!!! They wired this all wrong and I want It correct!........lol

One of the new headlight bulbs already blew out.... the neutral indicator light has no power coming from baby blue wire but reverse works....... the starter starts up again while your riding the bike and when you come to a stop... you can't shut the bike down. This happens when it wants and will eventually stop when it wants.

Thank you.

Last edited by bwatson; 11-28-2017 at 04:23 PM.
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post #2 of 15 Old 11-28-2017, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bwatson View Post
Does anyone know where to go to get a new wiring harness for a '99 warrior. I've had it!!!! They wired this all wrong and I want It correct!........lol

One of the new headlight bulbs already blew out.... the neutral indicator light has no power coming from baby blue wire but reverse works....... the starter starts up again while your riding the bike and when you come to a stop... you can't shut the bike down. This happens when it wants and will eventually stop when it wants.

Thank you.
Found a OEM harness at partzilla.com
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-28-2017, 08:36 PM
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if you are blowing bulbs check your rectifier
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-29-2017, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Faulty readings on Rectifier

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Originally Posted by cory52000 View Post
if you are blowing bulbs check your rectifier
Yep... it's not to spec but also there is a lot of re-wiring the previous owners did. The more I unwrap the harness, I see that in the front they don't really have connecters. It's like every ground wire in the front is tied together and they were attempting to ground it all back to the battery.

It's time to just get a new harness and add new electrical parts as needed. I'm still in my budget, everything else is fixed and i'll be keeping this one.

I won't put you through trying to fix it this time. lol Thanks Cory

Last edited by bwatson; 11-29-2017 at 05:06 AM.
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-29-2017, 03:58 PM
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that is how the factory did the connections and why warrior have so many wiring issues. i said the same thing the first time i unwrapped one. hope your aftermarket one is better
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post #6 of 15 Old 11-29-2017, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Question

OK... maybe i will bug ya abit if your willing. If not... new harness. Here's what i found.

1.) ground wire from shutoff switch grounded at the Ignition Coil/Frame ??? Never seen that before and there was no wire coming from negative battery terminal to frame like most atv's have. I added one.

2.) connector coming from the stator... not the 3 white wires but the other clip... it's getting very warm.

3.) the battery is charging at 14.1 volts avg and with the bike off the battery reads 12.45 ???

4.) took apart headlamp that blew out and there was water in there from rain. Maybe just shorted

5.) New Neutral Switch......ohm checked baby blue wire to RELAY... and back out to light indicator socket. The wires are good but there is no power getting to the light bulb. The reverse indicator works with the same bulb.

6.) the biggest problem... you can start the bike as normal and ride around in third gear for awhile......but if you go fast and stop quickly.....the starter engages and you can't shut down the bike in anyway until it decides to shutdown. I've banged on start switch and even replace starter solenoid twice. The start button's ohm is correct and appears to be functioning every time correctly to start bike.

7.) the site isn't letting me upload pic's in any format or size to show you anything

SO....think your up to the headache to help Cory or should i just get the new harness.... lol.... don't worry, i was going to order one today but just maybe this harness isn't so messed up as i thought?

Last edited by bwatson; 11-29-2017 at 07:08 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-29-2017, 10:06 PM
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i am willing to help for sure. not sure what the deal is on pics try logging in on your phone and upload them directly.

1) a ground is a ground as long as it is good. the frame was never directly grounded to the battery but it wont hurt. there should be a large diameter black wire going from the -battery to the back of the motor and a small black wire that pigtails into the large one and connects to the harness with a bullet connector on the left side of the bike by the battery.

2) i am actually having the same heat issue with a bayou 300 right now (it is with the field wires not the pickup like yours) and i have not solved it. it almost has to be a short or broken wire increasing the load somewhere. my guess is it is a side effect and will cure its self. mine melted the connector and the issue i am having now is how hot is to hot i have never had occasion feel one before. in my case i think it all leads to me not following my own advice and using a cheap cdi but we will see.

3)that is perfect as long as it does not spike when you jab the throttle. 12.45 is your resting voltage (in other words the voltage stored in the battery) the 14.5 is the regulated voltage from the stator. when the stator spins it puts out a/c voltage as high as 20 volts depending on rpms it sends that through the white wires to the regulator/rectifier where it is converted to d/c and dampend to the 14.5 volts you are seeing on your meter

4) good guess if you did not blow the fuse at the same time.

5) i will have to see a wiring diagram to help with this one but you will need to test the switch and the starter relay for starters.

6) you will need to determine if the problem is electrical or mechanical, it could be either. the starter is not a standard bendix style starter that most people are familiar with. the starter is engaged to the motor at all times via a one way clutch. when it sticks test the positive lead from the battery at the starter for voltage. there should be no voltage. if there is no voltage it is mechanical and will likely need a starter clutch. if there is voltage you will need to figure out where it is coming from. unbolt the lead that runs from the starter to the solenoid, at the solenoid and check for voltage (this will be tough to do with out shorting , consider putting some tape on your wrench) while the machine is still running and the starter stuck check the lead for voltage and then the solenoid. if there is voltage on the lead the starter is being overdriven and is turning itself into a dc generator and backfeeding the machine and that alone could cause some of your issues. if the bike dies or the lead is dead and there is voltage on the solenoid lug you just unhooked you either have a 3rd bad solenoid or there is a short in the switch wires, the 2 small wires on the solenoid (possibly blue and red) the solenoid is nothing more than a high amperage switch, the small wires carry a small amp load to open and close the switch. one will be power and one ground. again if memory serves (check your diagram) power should come to the grey button from the cdi, through the switch to the start relay, if all of the safety switch are in the correct position or bypassed the relay will be closed and power will travel to the solenoid, close the switch and then to ground. if that lug is hot without pushing the button and the starter lead unhooked you are picking up 12volts somewhere and will need to find the short.

so on my 87 and my 96 i had similar gremlins and i repaired the harness i had. most of the hacks in a harness are to bypass safety switches or remove lights for "racing" and are generally superficial in the harness and can easily be found on your wiring diagram. i did a lot of tail chasing to no avail. i ended up pulling the entire harness from the machine, starting at one end unwrapping the harness and repairing shorts and rubs as i went in small sections rewraping as i went. then i cleaned and repaired all of the connections and reinstalled the harness. it took less that 4 hours and then i new for sure that i was not chasing gremlins and could rule out hardware. if you do it take your time, dont unwrap to much at one time, use heat shrink and solder for your repairs, test that you have continuity through all of the pins in every connection. they are easily bent and may not make contact. take lots of pictures for routing. dont try to add convoluted tubing to make it look good and be stronger it wont work and will make you cuss a lot and then you will have to remove it to get the harness back in. yamaha had a horrible plan making an entire wiring harness out of cheap electrical tape and bare wires but it worked for the first 20 years so repaired correctly it should last another 20 and it will then be some other poor bastards problem lol. my guess is any new harness will come smelling strongly of chineseium and will have its own demons to evict.

it has been my experience that when the standard troubleshooting methods dont work you have to drop back to step one and positively rule things out one at a time. it is super frustrating and seems like the long way around when all you want to do is ride but in the long run it will save you time and money.

Last edited by cory52000; 11-30-2017 at 09:29 AM.
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-30-2017, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
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I can't thank you enough Cory for helping me out. Your right... i don't have the money to waste but i do have the time and patience. I have a hard time looking at a wiring schematic.

I'll check out what you mentioned today and see what i find. I have not done a full harness wire to wire ohm test yet but i can see now that the "bare wire connections" were soldiered or factory clamped and the harness maybe able to be salvaged.
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-30-2017, 09:29 AM
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its not hard and take your time. as far as the schematic goes you are right they are a tough nut your mind cant unsee the shape of that picture. try to think in terms of colors and not shapes. reading glasses help me focus. read the map key so you know the difference between a connection and a passover. not every place a line crosses is a joint.
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-30-2017, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Here's what i found that i think is not correct. These are the two big issues.


1.) THE STARTER ISSUE: it occurred while revving engine at idle. I tested for current and it read 12vlts from Positive Post of the Starter to frame. . I tapped on starter solenoid (gently once) and it immediately shutdown. Mind you this is the third one that's been on bike. Something is causing it but i can't believe 3 solenoids are bad.

2.) NO NEUTRAL INDICATOR LIGHT: Because of previous test... i did check POS Battery Terminal to frame ..... no volts. I thought positive was getting to frame again but fixed that. I also thought that (BR) or BROWN Wire was the ground color for most of the Electrical components on bike according to schematic........ but maybe wrong?????

With bike in neutral and on... no light... so i tested the BROWN wire/to frame and got 12.38vlts on the REVERSE LIGHT. It works. When i tested the BROWN the same way on the NEUTRAL INDICATOR LIGHT... i get -12.38vlts. I thought that the baby blue wire and the other blue wire to reverse carried the POS current. I don't know which way is correct but somethings not right in the wiring.

**original neutral light indicator bulb was coming on sporadically when i first got bike and i could just move the harness and it would blink on and off. Found the wires touching the frame and fixed the issue with pos touching frame. Light bulb blew out. I have not changed anything with the wiring except unplugged the Parking Brake at harness after changing the rear caliper**

A> tried new CDI BOX... no effect
B> double checked that all wires were taped and not touching frame
C> put in a 15 amp as per schematic instead of the 20 amp fuse that came in it... no effect
D> disconnected headlights from harness while testing everything else and never turned them on.... no effect

So in the end... there is a issue in the wiring and the more i look at it... i can't tell where it's coming from.

Thank Again for your time.

Last edited by bwatson; 11-30-2017 at 11:31 AM.
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post #11 of 15 Old 11-30-2017, 12:02 PM
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did you ever order a clymer manual. if not at this point i think it is critical for you from here on out some of the test procedures are going to be tough to do without a manual and even i have trouble following the factory manual. the clymer also has a color wiring diagram that is the actual wire colors. guaranteed it will be the best 30 bucks you spend on this thing. i order one for every bike i restore

next time it sticks unplug the small blue and red wires from the solenoid. if it shuts down the problem is in the harness if not the problem is the solenoid.

neutral light; to test the switch put the positive lead on the brass tit and the negative lead on the battery ground, in neutral it should show continuity and open when in gear.

the brown wire is not ground, black is ground.

the brown wire carries the battery 12 volt from the key switch to multiple electrical components. with the key on, the black lead on ground the brown wire should have 12 volts anywhere you test it. i suspect if the neutral switch is good and you say the reverse light works the problem is in the neutral switch relay follow the instructions in the manual to test it.

the light gets its 12 volts power from the brown wire and completes the circuit through that relay and finally to ground via the switch. i suspect you had your leads swapped when you got the negative voltage. that is pretty much the only way that can happen. the brown wire for the reverse light and the neutral light are tied together and would have to be the same.

so the next step is to test the start circuit relay, the neutral switch itself and the neutral relay.

i cant remember is the only problem we are trying to fix just these little gremlins or is there a bigger problem we are looking at.
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post #12 of 15 Old 11-30-2017, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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There are the two big things to solve. The biggest is this bike starting out of nowhere now with the KEY off and the Handlebar shutoff switch off. I had to disconnect the POS Terminal on Battery until i test something again. I have the handle bar off the bike and all parts just hanging. Does the handlebar shutoff switch ground to the handlebars to work properly

TESTED With KEY/ON and Shutoff Switch/ON:

1.) unplugged the red/blue wires from solenoid..... no effect... just kept trying to start

2.) Neutral Switch TIT to Negative Battery.... 0.00 bat.

3. Neutral Relay... i unplugged and tested harness baby blue/baby blue got 12vlts. At the neutral light, I retested Brown wire to frame and got 12vlts..... Tested Brown to Baby Blue got .34vlts

And just to make sure.. the large POS Battery wire to solenoid and a large wire down to starter POS post. Just the two wires. Or is this missing a wire?

Last edited by bwatson; 12-01-2017 at 08:43 AM.
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-01-2017, 10:57 AM
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if the signal wires from the harness are unplugged and it is still trying to start it almost has to be the solenoid it is literally a switch that is operated by that plug.

sorry on the neutral switch you are looking for ohms or continuity not volts, do the same test. you will be testing the mechanical action of the switch

you need to test the actual relays i dont think they are working properly.

other than the small blue and red wires that plug in to the solenoid. large red wire from the battery to the post on the solenoid and a large black wire carrying 12 volts to the post on the starter.
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post #14 of 15 Old 12-01-2017, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Found the issue!!!! I stepped back and saw that the POS Battery Terminal Wire and the wire to the Starter were replaced (much larger than factory).

When I looked at the starter... I noticed that there wasn't a rubber boot around this large connecter and wire sticking out that they used. It was about 1/2" from frame. So I moved the connecter away from frame and poof.... starter problem went away! lol

The Neutral Relay is bad. There is 12vlts from babyblue-B/W to Baby blue. It's just not getting through the Relay.

Other than that...the headlights are corroded and just not working right so i'll replace those.

Thanks again Cory!

Last edited by bwatson; 12-01-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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post #15 of 15 Old 12-01-2017, 02:41 PM
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nice work
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