1987 Warrior 350x need help - Yamaha ATV Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 04-13-2017, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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1987 Warrior 350x need help

I'm new to this forum, and am a novice fixing ATV's, so any assistance is greatly needed and appreciated.

My 1987 has no spark. Originally, it was running for 3yrs and all I had changed in that time was the stator. Then recently, it started to backfire and when you throttled it... it felt like it was hesitating to get moving.

So I have done the following on this bike recently, but still can not fix the no spark issue. I am getting charge readings from the ignition coil wire but it seems it's not enough to fire the spark plug, but the bike does turn over great.

I have 3 square relays, 2 are white and 1 is blue on this bike. I don't know what they do but I did cycle the white ones out with a known good one but not the blue one and I don't know how to test them.

VERIFIED USED
Cdi box

VERIFIED USED
My original battery which will charge to 12.99dc

BRAND NEW
Rectifer - Good
/Starter Selenoid - Good
Starter - Good
Stator - Caltric - cannot test
Carburator - Zoom aftermarket - Good
Ignition Coil - Good
Spark Plug - Good
Tusk Clutch Kit & Cable - Good
Neutral & Reverse Switch - Good
Ignition Key Switch - it's aftermarket and don't know if it could be causing an issue.

I hope this is enough detailed information for someone out there to point me in the right direction. Thank you again!

UPDATE1: 4/13/17
Battery fully charged is 12.99 - but goes down to 12.56 when turning the bike over 3 times. Goes down to 11.34 volts when turning bike over.

Read other threads and double checked harness for any issues. Found none.

Put old ignition coil back on... nothing. Put new one back on.

Last edited by bwatson; 04-13-2017 at 01:39 PM. Reason: Update
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post #2 of 32 Old 04-13-2017, 09:02 PM
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was the backfiring before the no spark. check the intake boot for the backfiring. as far as the no spark some of the Chinese electronics have the red and white wire swapped on the pickup coil (i know caltrec sounds like it is should be good parts but they just rename the same Chinese knock off stuff everyone else sells) look closely at your old one or look for a picture of a factory one. check your key switch with a meter, compare it to your reining diagram if you dont have one down load it from the sticky. make sure you have power to and through it. the relays are the safety stuff if it cranks they are good. you should be able to do an ohm test on the caltrec stator, yoiu wont know the exact numbers but you will be able to tell if it is shorted.
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post #3 of 32 Old 04-14-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Cory for your help! I think I have checked the stator correctly.. but double check if you would please. I have the meter set at 2000 ohms.

The white wires (3) test at 001 in any config I do... I don't think that's good? I tested by putting the red to one prong and the black to another... and kept switching them around in the plug.

Both Pick ups are at 380.

The blue single wire from stator test 1 or n/a

The brown single wire from stator test 309 ohms.

I would upload pics I took but it's not letting me. Thanks again for your help.
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post #4 of 32 Old 04-14-2017, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Fixed the pic upload issue

Hope these pics help. Thank you again!
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post #5 of 32 Old 04-14-2017, 12:11 PM
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i would say that stator is junk. i have had good luck with the ricky stator replacements. if i understand your numbers it sound like it is shorted out.
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post #6 of 32 Old 04-14-2017, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Ok... thank you again Cory! I will get a Rick Stator cause it seems they are better even tho they are still aftermarket but most people trust them.

UPDATE:
Just for EVERYONE that see's this post.... Caltric told me through email that they DO NOT TEST THERE STATORS and they will just offer a replacement first without needing to send the broken one back. Guess it's the luck of the draw!

Last edited by bwatson; 04-14-2017 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Update
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post #7 of 32 Old 04-15-2017, 07:39 AM
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Stator, im pretty sure. Nice you could get a new one for free and hopefully it solves your issue!

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post #8 of 32 Old 04-15-2017, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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thumbs up Caltric Stator Aftermarket Info

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Stator, im pretty sure. Nice you could get a new one for free and hopefully it solves your issue!

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Yes, that's what is good about Caltric....tell them it's a defective part, take pics and show them what's wrong, and they will send you another one quick. Other company's out there are selling aftermarket Stators for much more. The last one I bought lasted 3 years on this bike from Caltric. I have access to a shop about 35 minutes away from my house that repairs atv's and they use Caltric Stators. I personally believe that any aftermarket Stator is not an OEM so you will expect lower performance and shorter longevity from any aftermarket part. The only difference is Caltric sells tons of there Stators at only 35.oo.

I'm not investing in OEM on this 1987 Warrior because I might sell it and use the money for a down payment on a 2014-15 used raptor. If I knew I was keeping it, then for sure I would be buying OEM even tho the cost maybe triple.

Happy Trails all!
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post #9 of 32 Old 04-15-2017, 11:15 AM
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I totally agree with you :)

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post #10 of 32 Old 04-15-2017, 12:09 PM
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in most cases i would agree that oem is best but on the warrior the oem stators suck. the wiring yamaha used does not hold up to the heat that a warrior makes and the winding's break down prematurely, that is why you will almost never find a warrior with the original stator in it. the ricky stator replacements are hand built using a higher temp wire and are definitely worth the money. its cool caltrec will send you a new one but they wont push your bike back to the truck when you cook a stator on the trail.
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post #11 of 32 Old 04-16-2017, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Caltric - Ricks - OEM Stators for warrior

[QUOTE=cory52000;870066]in most cases i would agree that oem is best but on the warrior the oem stators suck. the wiring yamaha used does not hold up to the heat that a warrior makes and the winding's break down prematurely, that is why you will almost never find a warrior with the original stator in it. the ricky stator replacements are hand built using a higher temp wire and are definitely worth the money. its cool caltrec will send you a new one but they wont push your bike back to the truck when you cook a stator on the trail.[/QUOTE
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I have heard that before that a OEM stator isn't great for a Warrior but thought the source of info was full of crap.... so thanks for the update. If I do keep this bike then the next stator i'll probably switch to the Rick Stator seeing it does get a lot of good reviews. The good thing about where I ride is it's 10 minutes away and in a National Forest OHV trail about 24 miles worth. If you break down, they will tow your ATV to your trailer. You just need to flag a cycle or atv down as they pass and they will alert the officers.

Laters!
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post #12 of 32 Old 04-18-2017, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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OK.... the new Stator from Caltric came in and the source ohm's where at (001). The spec calls for (0-10). Both pickups are now reading 380 so I am assuming!!! that this stator is good, but still won't fire.

Sooooo.....i'm still at a no win situation. Going to try and and test/used old rectifier, cdi box and ignition coil again one by one till I find the culprit.

I did change the clutch plates also when I was adding new electric parts. I'm sure I put it together correctly using the Tusk Kit, new cable and watched a youtube vid of a guy fixing his 1987. Could I have done something wrong so this bike won't start? You never know so thought I would bring that up.


Thanks all :)

Last edited by bwatson; 04-18-2017 at 09:12 AM.
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post #13 of 32 Old 04-18-2017, 10:28 AM
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the clutch has nothing to do with spark. have you pulled the plug to see if you have spark? did you try a new plug. did you ever test the key switch?
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post #14 of 32 Old 04-18-2017, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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thumbs up Checking of Spark Plug and Ignition Key

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the clutch has nothing to do with spark. have you pulled the plug to see if you have spark? did you try a new plug. did you ever test the key switch?
Cool on the clutch. I bought 2 new spark plugs when I bought the rest of these parts. I have tested both of them by arcing to engine block......and nothing. I even bypassed plug and arced with a screwdriver. The key switch wires have continuity in all wires and that part is new.

The one thing that I can tell you is both of my cdi boxes do show a pulsing current coming from the orange wire when you turn it over. I don't think you can test a cdi box that way. But because of those readings.. I tested if there was a reading coming from the spark plug wire and there is a reading of .22 average at 20v DC multimeter setting.

It just seems to me that there is juice going through everything but not enough to kick the spark plug.

I just sold a Honda trx250 after rebuilding it and never had this kind of a "ghost" issue. But I just got to get this beast going.. got to much into it.

Thanks thanks thanks!

Last edited by bwatson; 04-18-2017 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Tested the current from spark plug wire
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post #15 of 32 Old 04-19-2017, 03:08 PM
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well if you have a pulse on the orange wire unless you have a short in it or it is broken i would highly suspect you primary coil or a bad ground on the ignition coil. have you checked and cleaned all of your grounds
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post #16 of 32 Old 04-20-2017, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Ignition Coil Voltage?

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well if you have a pulse on the orange wire unless you have a short in it or it is broken i would highly suspect you primary coil or a bad ground on the ignition coil. have you checked and cleaned all of your grounds
I have checked the ground wires and all seems good. With both new and old ignition coils i'm getting the same result.... a spike to .22 and then down to a steady .14 on the multimeter set at 20v dc. I'm testing that red to spark plug wire and black to engine frame.

I'm afraid that without knowing what and how to test the current from the ignition coil... I may never figure this out. Advanced Auto and I double checked to make sure the new spark plugs were in fact the right ones for this bike. But maybe it's possible I bought to bad ones... I just can't believe it.

Thank you and I will keep trying anything I can.
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post #17 of 32 Old 04-20-2017, 03:58 PM
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i have never seen a spec on the pulse voltage so who know if that is correct. are you getting a full 12 plus volts to the cdi? i dont think you got 2 bad plugs. it is starting to look like the cdi might be the issue and that is a bummer on an 87 they dont make new ones for it and the used ones are super spendy.
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post #18 of 32 Old 04-21-2017, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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Low Voltage?

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i have never seen a spec on the pulse voltage so who know if that is correct. are you getting a full 12 plus volts to the cdi? i dont think you got 2 bad plugs. it is starting to look like the cdi might be the issue and that is a bummer on an 87 they dont make new ones for it and the used ones are super spendy.
The CDI Box on the bike now I just bought from a bike shop who is telling me that it was in working condition. My old box is giving me the same readings when I turn it over and there saying this is an under volt issue.

So I will try and figure out how to test the current from the stator up to the plugs at the CDI and see what I get as you are suggesting Cory.

Thanks.
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post #19 of 32 Old 04-30-2017, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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I have done as much as I can do to this bike. I seem to be lacking in the "electrical testing" ability needed to figure out where the issue is. It seems that the volts and ohms for any part I put on this bike end up being the same whether I use my old parts or not.

The one thing I have figured out is that initially I was getting weak or broken spark when the issue started to happen and the bike would fire up but not stay running and turned over slower like it didn't have a lot of battery power. Now, no spark but the bike turns over like a new bike.

So, I still would greatly appreciate any feedback you guys might have before I take this to the local shop and eat the labor charges. lol

Thanks so much!
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post #20 of 32 Old 05-01-2017, 11:13 AM
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i read back through the thread and i cant see anything electrical we missed. in the manual there is a step by step trouble shooting guide for the electrical system. i think you have done it all but try walking through that one more time. so if it is not electrical components you have to rule out the mechanical components. first check the timing make sure they line up correctly. if they dont then you will need to figure out if it has jumped time, if the timing chain is worn and stretched or if you have partially or completely sheared the flywheel key. i honestly doubt it is mechanical because with timing issues normal you have spark it is just at the wrong time. did you ever compare your caltrec to the original stator to ensure the red and white wires on the pickup are oriented correctly. the only other thing i can think of is those plugs can be problematic. the pins are very tiny and can easily bend, i have had the pins bend far enough that they did not go into the female side of the plug. everything looked good but there was no continuity through the plug. if you do end up taking it to the shop be very careful. it has been my experience that most mechanics today have little experience in this area and this machine was probably built before they were born. they depend on being able to plug their lap top into a machine and it tells them what part to replace. that is not an option here so they just start replacing parts. i just searched e bay and found a complete electrical system for a 97-01 for 99 bucksit had everything except the flywheel and i found that for 59 bucks it is used of course so no guarantee but for under 200 bucks you can have a 3 generation warrior. that gets you more power and significantly cheaper parts. if you have 2 working 87 cdi you could ebay them and come out 200 bucks ahead. my point is you can quickly find yourself 500 bucks deep in a 1000 dollar bike and it may or may not run in the end they charge you for diagnostics even if they cant figure it out and like said in most cases any more they just start throwing parts until something works and it is not the cheap ebay stuff because they cant take the rick of cheap parts. if you do take it in have a conversation with the tech, not the guy behind the counter and tell him the things you have done and checked and how you did it and you should be able to tell if he or she knows more or less than you.
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