1995 Wolverine lack of speed and power - Page 3 - Yamaha ATV Forum
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post #41 of 63 Old 12-21-2017, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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I agree 90 lbs is not enough, however I find it strange that 2 different jugs with 2 different pistons would still come back at spot on 90 lbs.

However that would be my luck
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post #42 of 63 Old 12-22-2017, 10:40 AM
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the part i would struggle with is 90 pounds of compression and it passed a leak down test, that is almost impossible. are you doing the comp test with the throttle open? did you test your gauge on another machine. i know you checked the valves but is it possible one slipped?
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post #43 of 63 Old 12-22-2017, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartlu57 View Post
I have replaced the CDI box and no change.

If the stator is bad would the machine start and run but run slow? Or with a bad stator would it just not run at all?

It does have 90psi for compression but the weird thing about that is that I replaced the jug and piston and it still only has 90psi and according to the dealer it passed a leak down test so I assumed that the compression test is probably not a good test. Is that the case? I know thatís a dumb question but Iím starting to question myself now that I still canít get this thing fixed.
My warrior would run and idle great until it was warm. After warm it would idle fine but over probably 2500 rpm it would sputter. Replaced the stator and all was good. Moral of my story is test the stator cold and warm..

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
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06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax, 07' Nytro(b00sTed)
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post #44 of 63 Old 03-14-2018, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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@cory5200 I was checking the compression with the throttle wide open. I questioned a stick valve but didn’t trust myself to do a compression test so brought it to a dealer and got burnt. And thay even said it had 90 psi but passed a leak down test so I honestly do not trust anything they say after dealing with them.

I debating a top end and stator but not sure which one I should try first.

Sorry for the delayed response, it’s been cold in MN and I don’t have a heated garage so I haven’t had time to work on it.
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post #45 of 63 Old 03-15-2018, 09:45 AM
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well i would do like digger said and test that stator warm and cold but if i remember correctly the lack of power is consistent warm or cold. if that passes you are pretty much down to that top end

at this point you have ruled out electrical and it has a new carb correct? i recall you ruled out front and rear diffs and the trans and transfer case she must be worn out can you borrow a bore scope and take a look at the cylinder, it wont tell you much but you could see big issues. sounds like it might be time to dig in

i hate the cold to lol
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post #46 of 63 Old 03-28-2018, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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I’m going to start with the stator and see if I can find anything there but full disclosure I’m not the greatest with tracking and testing electrical. You are correct the lack of power is consistent warm or cold. I rebiuilt the palled the valves and re oiled the head but that’s not saying that fixed the issue. I also replaced the jug and piston. So I may look for a replacement head. Not sure if I buy used or aftermarket one.

Correct, it has a new carb and I have rebuilt the old card as well and no change for either carb.

Hopefully something will give and I find the issue soon!
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post #47 of 63 Old 04-30-2018, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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It’s finally nice enough to get out in the garage and get to work, but I’m second guessing where to start. I’m still struggling with the 90lbs of compression. I’ve replace the jug and piston with a used one off eBay last summer and rebuilt the head and relapped the valves and still same.

So I was debating on buying a used head and jug off eBay. The 2 Jugs and pistons that I have appear to be in good shape with no scratches or anything.

Or do I buy a head and new piston and ring for my jug?

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
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post #48 of 63 Old 04-30-2018, 11:18 AM
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i guess that would depend on if you miced the jug and piston before you assembled everything. since you already have 2 used sets i dont think a third set the same vintage will help much. as a general rule you cant just mix and match those parts. when you assemble the top end everything need to be measured and fit for optimum performance. it is possible you could get a stock piston and hone the jug and get a reasonable fit but it is unlikely. if the jug has any wear the rings will not seat.

with compression that low and the valves properly adjusted my first guess would be an error in torquing the head and you have a head gasket leak.

plan a
the first thing i would do is check my compression tester to insure you data is correct.
did we rule out some sort of auto decompression?
second disassemble the top end slowly looking for issues as you go. you will need to check the mating surfaces of the jug and head for flatness both alone and mated, next is using an inside mic make sure the cylinder is both round and in spec. take the rings off of the piston and place them back in the jug and use a feeler gauge to make sure the ring gap is correct, inspect the cylinder, it should not be smooth you should see cross hatching ( if you dont know what that looks like google it it is important ). inspect the head and valves. look for leaks in the head gasket itself. this will tell you for certain if the top end is your compression issue. and it will keep you from spending unneeded money. this will take some special tools and the skill to use them. it is not rocket silence but if done incorrectly it is a waste of time and will get you nothing.

plan b
order a good name brand oversize piston and rings, take the whole mess to your local machine shop and have them bore the old jug to match the new piston, also have them set the ring gap (again special tools and an increased skill level but it is possible at home). have them replace the valve guides and measure the valves. have them machine the head to the jug. this would be a waste of time and money if that is not the problem but if you cant do the measurements your self it is the next cheapest way to rule out the top end as you problem

plan c
order a matched cylinder and piston off of ebay (if you ever had dreams of a big bore this would be the time to do it there is no cost differenc but it will open up some jetting/carb issues later). if you do this you will need to set the ring gap, have the head machined flat, replace the valve guides and inspect the valves to make this option a absolute rule out for the top end.

another guy pm me this weekend with the same bike and same issue. (ignoring the 90 psi) i cant help but wonder if it is a vacuum issue somewhere and the slide is not opening correctly. when i was doing some research for him i found several kits that convert that machine to a regular barrel slide carb. you might try googling your symptoms with barrel carb ans see if anyone else has been down this road. why would those kits exist if there was not a need.

i think plan b while likely the most expensive would be the best, as long as you have a good machine shop. factory jugs are generally better than aftermarket and all of the tec stuff would be professionally done. you are getting to the tough decision part of owning an atv. at some point you need to decide if it is worth it to YOU to fix. every machine can be repaired but some are not worth it. when you get there is determined by your skill, the value of the machine, your love for the machine, and the value of the education. i have a 5000 dollar jeep that i have 10 grand and hundreds of hours in. i enjoyed the jeep, the journey, and the education so it was worth it at the time. now that it is time for something different, eventually even your favorite toy grows old. i am faced with loosing thousands of dollars or finding a way to fall in love again. in other words is sucks to be so deep in a project you cant get out.

if there is no attachment to the machine you may be able to sell it as is to someone else and take the money and time you were going to spend on repairs and upgrade your machine and kick the hassle to the curb.
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post #49 of 63 Old 05-03-2018, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Cory52000, I agree with every thing you said! I have a hard time with this machine because I’ve done around 50-60 engine rebuilds having raced Dirt bikes but this dang thing is proven to be testing my skills it’s fun working on it but riding it is way better haha. I think I’ll try #1 again and look into switching the carb over.

Thanks again I appreciate the time and info!
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post #50 of 63 Old 05-04-2018, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well just put a little oil down the cylinder and got the compression to go from 90psi to 120psi so I’m goin to go the route of replacing piston and rings. And since I have the jug off, inspect the cross hatch.

Thanks for listening to all my questions, everyone has been great on here I appreciate it!
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Last edited by Smartlu57; 05-04-2018 at 06:42 PM.
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post #51 of 63 Old 05-22-2018, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Well unfortunately the saga continues. Beougyt the head and jug to a professional machine shop and the jug was out of round and so I had the jug bored over and added an new Wiseco piston and rings. Also had the head professionally redone with one valve guide replaced.

I let it idle and warm up for about 5 minutes then took it down the alley and showed no change. No power cold or warmed up. It got late so I did not do a compression check last night, I’ll have to do that today.

Stator the next area to to look into probably.
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post #52 of 63 Old 05-22-2018, 10:32 AM
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bummer man
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post #53 of 63 Old 05-23-2018, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Compression cane back at 90 PSI with the fresh bore, piston and rings. So now I’m super confused.
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post #54 of 63 Old 05-23-2018, 11:32 PM
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almost has to be in the head sounds like you have eliminated everything else. have you miced the valves and checked the seats, spring tension. i have to admit i am stumped i know we have talked about valve and cam timing. i assume you checked it. the fact that the comp test is exactly the same tells me you fixed a problem but not the problem. i cant believe this thing is still fighting after almost a year. dumb question have you ran it next to another one to know it is slow or is it obvious. i cant remember does it have any after market electronics? ps dont feel bad about the bore job, even though it did not fix it it was a problem and you have positively ruled out a cause. you must really love this thing i would have parted it out long ago
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post #55 of 63 Old 05-24-2018, 12:17 AM
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so i just went back and re read the entire saga. did you ever get the stator tested i never saw results if you did. if you did not we need to do that next. after looking at all you have done and the redundant repairs with no change

at one point we talked about carbs and we discussed a diaphragm operated needle as a possible issue. does your carb have a regular cable operated slide or is it a vacuum assisted. i thought you answered as if it had a vacuum assisted slide but i may not have understood. i just did some internet creeping and your machine should have a flat top non vacuum slide carb. they switched in it looks like 96. everything else is the same so it would bolt right up

i keep coming back to not getting enough throttle for some reason and that would explain it. it looks to be the same carb they used on thee 87 and 96 and up warriors.88-95 was the same carb just duel cables. the carb and the stator status are the only 2 unknowns i can find and since the carbs were changed out before you got it it is a possibility.after rereading i am less confident it is in the head.

did you ever do any jetting? didnt see the answer on that.
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post #56 of 63 Old 05-26-2018, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah this is a real stumper.

I have not tested the stator yet, that is now the next task. I waited because I wanted to try resolve the 90 psi issue first but now I don’t know why it only has 90 psi. Do I need to do the compression test hot I wonder?

It had an aftermarket carb on it but it also came with the factory carb but he said it sat for 5 years and that’s why it has the new carb. So I bought a zoom zoom after reading a few different trends online and then saying that fixed their issue. Then when it didn’t I put the factory carb in an ultrasonic cleaner and put that on. It is a flat top cable slide that I’m considering swapping out for the diaphragm style but not till after I test the stator probably.

I did buy a dyno jet kit and tried a few.

It starts right up and then idles great but it doesn’t really rev up really quick. It doesn’t jolt it just has a steady band of no power up to a max speed of 22mph and I believe it should do at least 40+. But it’s able to climb the ramps just fine into the back of my truck.
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post #57 of 63 Old 05-29-2018, 10:41 AM
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check the stator for sure. have you pulled the spark arrestor out of the pipe and cleaned it ? if there is a significant blockage there it could be you issue. have you tried running with out the air box lid?
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post #58 of 63 Old 06-09-2018, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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I did check the spark arestor and it was clear, no blockage. I tried the air box without the lid and a new air filter.

I took the stator out and tested it but still not 100% sure I did it right so looking to find somewhere that’s willing to take a couple minutes to check it for me.
I took a couple bad videos but I’ll post them when I get a chance
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post #59 of 63 Old 06-09-2018, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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post #60 of 63 Old 06-11-2018, 11:52 AM
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i could not see which wires you were testing in the first vid but i am guessing you were testing the field wires one the stator. i would no get real hung up on the numbers your free harbor freight meter is not that accurate but what it does tell you is you have resistance (good) on some of the phases and open circuits on others (bad) as long as you were following the manual and testing the correct wires together you should not have any open circuits. i dont know if it is "the " problem but i think your stator is bad. it looks like ricky stator sells a stator for that machine. i dont know if he always does this but i had problems with a warrior stator and i called him and he walked me through the test and helped me interpret the numbers. if i was you i would call him and see if he can help. his equipment is had made by him and works really well
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