|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-23-2019 10:26 AM|
the clutch is dragging. first try to tighten the cable, my bet is its adjusted to the max and you will need a new clutch but that is easy and cheap. if adjusting it does not work you can tip the machine up on its left wheels and let it set for a second or 2 and they you can pull the clutch cover for inspection without draining the oil.
as to the neutral light is the baby blue wire hooked up to the brass plug switch by the shifter? if not hook it up. if it is test the switch, they commonly go out. the power should come from the cdi through the light bulb and then to the switch. the switch should be normally open and go to ground when in neutral. this ground the neutral/start relay and allows power to the start solenoid.
pull the cam cover off and see if the chain is loose. i am pretty sure those have an automatic timing chain tensioner. pull it out and make sure the spring is good and it is good and clean. if that does not stop you noise it is probably the bottom end and you will either need to tear it down and inspect it or ride with a buddy and a tow strap
|08-23-2019 10:09 AM|
The valves seem spot on still, so no idea there. Maybe I can take a shot at seeing if it is the timing chain. Just interesting this was never a sound before the valves were adjusted, but also before the valves had no gap at all.
As far as neutral goes is beyond me. I can sit there with the clutch in while running (F/R switch engaged) just fine. If the bike is off and F/R switch engaged either direction, I can not start it without it trying to pull forward (or reverse), nor can I just pull in the clutch and push it while off. Both starting and pushing the thing requires the F/R to be in the middle. I have found neutral (using the shifter) a few times but they were all accidental and random (maybe 5 times total). The quad never came with the Neutral/reverse light bezel. I did however purchase one and installed it with no luck. The lights worked when putting external voltage to them, but when installed and hooked up to the correct wires, they never worked. Took my trusty DMM to the leads as well and seen no voltage. I took the bezel off. Seems like unless it is running, the clutch has issues.
|08-22-2019 10:12 AM|
did you ever adjust the valves? its not likely a clutch issue and i am not sure how that is possible. the only clutch related thing i could think of is if it is not adjusted properly and is dragging it can be hard to hit neutral it will skip right over it. but if you can hit first and second neutral should be there. does it jump when you put it in gear. the light should at least flash as you go by neutral. test the switch. be very careful using that method as neutral. there is no neutral there it is just splitting those 2 gears and could easily drop into one or the other
when my boy was 5 he crashed about that far out, what an ordeal. i cant count the flats and such we have had together. good times
|08-21-2019 09:57 AM|
I took it our riding over the weekend and hit up the mountains. After about 5 hours of riding, It seemed to be running great still despite the noise. Didn't get louder or didn't go away. Only issue I am having is that it dies out when I come to a stop about half the time.
Also another thing, I NEVER had neutral in the shifter since I got the thing. I have always had to put the forward/reverse lever in the middle to be in neutral. Do you think this would a clutch issue or start looking somewhere else?
The quad was basically free but sucks getting something so old that you have no idea what was done to it in the past or what other issues have come up. I just want to hit the mountains in confidence!
BTW I was out with my 9y.o. son this weekend while he had his 96 PW80. Got about 6 miles from the staging area and about +2000 ft elevation up a mountain and his rear tire blew!! HEHEHE that was fun.
|08-20-2019 05:54 PM|
|tom bauer||when the cam mark is lined up it is at TDC compression stroke. that is where you adjust the valves. I would not run it with loud tapping, something is coming apart.|
|08-16-2019 07:16 PM|
|cory52000||is the timing chain tight? warriors break exhaust studs pretty often check that but if they are good sounds like you might have to tear it down and look at the crank and rod|
|08-16-2019 05:01 PM|
|michael0105||So I took everything apart again last night and the valve adjustments were still in spec. The rattle is still there, sounds like the front of the engine, possibly the lower half.|
|08-14-2019 05:18 PM|
|michael0105||Thanks a bunch Cory. Hopefully that settles the rattle.|
|08-14-2019 05:11 PM|
|08-14-2019 03:45 PM|
|michael0105||and the adjustments should both be done on the compression when both are loose?|
|08-14-2019 02:43 PM|
|cory52000||both rocker arms should be loose when you are on the compression when you are on the exhaust stroke the exhaust rocker will not rattle|
|08-14-2019 11:16 AM|
|michael0105||Maybe I will get a shot to try that tonight. When aligning for TDC, there are 2 different strokes when the "T" is lined up. What is the best way to tell that I am on the correct stroke. I suppose one there is no gap and the correct one has a gap?|
|08-14-2019 10:47 AM|
|cory52000||double check the valves|
|08-14-2019 10:03 AM|
It has been quite some time after I adjusted the valves (due to bad battery) that I have been able to test how it is with after the valve adjustment. Finally threw in a new battery (had other projects come up. It was turning right over and I was hearing the pressure coming out of the exhaust right away (before it would crank and crank before I would actually hear a poof out the exhaust). Fired up rather quickly and took it for a few laps around the block and seems to be running great.....except for.... there is this loud clicking sound I am hearing now. Never heard it before and my wife even heard it inside the house. It goes with the speed of the engine. Any idea of what this could be?
I am trying to take my son out trail riding this weekend (he got a PW80) and would like to either solve this issue or know that its nothing that I need to worry about.
|07-12-2019 03:06 PM|
|cory52000||yes it would|
|07-12-2019 09:22 AM|
|michael0105||So far I got the intake adjusted to spec. It was very tight. My feeler gauge goes down to .04 mm and I couldn't even fit that in there. I got it somewhere in between .06 and .07. That's all the time my wife allowed for me last night, possibly able to get the exhaust side torn off today. Also wanted to note that yes I did my research and have the T facing through the little hole, lol. Would a very tight intake gap cause this issue I am having? I am curious to see what the exhaust is at right now.|
|07-11-2019 08:58 PM|
|michael0105||Well after I put the plug back in, it started up rather quickly today after sitting for 24 hours (maybe like 5 cranks). Gets very rough idle at first then dies out. If I even put the slightest bit of pressure on the throddle it stays running.Actual battery is dead so I jumped it. Maybe wife will be nice and give me time to adjust the valves tonight 😂😂. Glad you don't think it's an electrical problem. I am an electronics tech and I think way to deep into troubleshooting. It's always much more simple than I make it out to be.|
|07-11-2019 08:37 PM|
|cory52000||the electricity is generated in the stator, the pickup/trigger send pulse to the cdi/primary coil and then to the plug. again i dont think you have an electrical problem. as long as the plug sets against the seal ring its fine.|
|07-11-2019 08:27 PM|
|michael0105||Just got home and went to testing. Might try the valves tonight if I have time. So does the spark come directly from the stator? I pulled the plug and it was sparking just fine. Seemed a little loose when I started to take out though. Wonder if that has anything to do with it? But yet again it was like that with the old plug as well. Maybe tomorrow I can pick up a compression tester and give it a shot.|
|07-11-2019 06:42 PM|
|cory52000||the spark has nothing to do with the battery you could take it clear out. it only runs the starter. it is very unlikely that this is electrical but if you order the manual it will walk you through step by step to test all of the electrical parts so you dont wast money. a proper stator is 150 bucks or so. i would not replace it in case. you dont need to pull the motor to adjust the valves. just pull the valve caps, it might be easier if you pull the tank for access. you dont even pull the motor to replace the top end. yes you test the compression in the spark plug hole.|
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