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Rear Axle Bearing Installation
INTENDED: Most ATVs | PERFORMED ON: Banshee | DIFFICULTY: 6/10
INTRO: When your rear axle bearings are on their way out, it's best to replace them as soon as possible. Failure to do so can result in the damage of other parts, or worse cause poor handling which can lead to accidents. It's not a real quick job, and will take some time and plenty of patience, but can be easily accomplished by the average-skilled wrencher with the correct tools. The quad in the photos here is a Banshee, but the installation instructions ahead will roughly be the same for all solid rear axle, chain-driven ATVs.
STEP ONE: First you will need to loosen the large outer axle nut (counter-clockwise) with a wrench and back it all the way off until it's off the axle threads completely. Keeping the ATV in a low gear should be plenty to keep the axle from spinning while turning the wrench, but you may need to have someone apply the rear brakes while doing this.
STEP TWO: Next, use your wrench to loosen and take the inner large axle nut off of the threads of the axle just like you did with the outter one. Again, keep the transmission engaged in low gear or the rear brakes applied. You can also now remove your rear wheels & hubs from the axle and slide the axle nuts off of the axle.
STEP THREE: Now you can remove the master link from the drive chain with a flathead screwdriver or similar tool, and take it completely off of the rear drive sprocket. Be careful not to lose the master link clip or any O-rings associated with the link.
STEP FOUR: You should now remove the rear brake caliper from the axle housing. It is held on with two 14mm bolts in this case; one upper bolt, and one lower bolt. After both bolts are removed completely simply lift up the brake caliper and slide it off of the brake disc, laying it back out of the way on the swingarm.
STEP FIVE: Grab the sprocket with hub attached and slide it to the left untill you have it completely off of the axle. Wiggle it slightly while pulling to the left at the same time if it is having trouble sliding off. If it's very rusty and isn't budging, spray it thoroughly with penetrating oil and tap the sprocket hub with a hammer until it is freed.
STEP SIX: With everything off of the left side of the axle, you can now thread the wheel hub castle nut back onto the axle so it's flush with the end of the axle. Now, while placing a block of wood against the nut, you can tap the axle out while using a hammer. This may take a while and require a lot of elbow grease, but use caution as to not damage the axle at all. If you can, have someone pull on the right side of the axle at the same time you're doing this.
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TECH
