Need Re-Jetting Help? ~YFZ450 Jetting Guide Inside~
This is a discussion on Need Re-Jetting Help? ~YFZ450 Jetting Guide Inside~ within the Yamaha YFZ450/450R (2004-Present) forums, part of the Performance /Technical category; as the weather cools we are up to 180 jet main and gytr race needle at #4 and pilot 48 and we hit 77 mph ...
as the weather cools we are up to 180 jet main and gytr race needle at #4 and pilot 48 and we hit 77 mph without a stumble, pulls real good also. Starts on the first or second turn with no extra throttle, and idles smooth, no lag on accelaration.
try it for yourself if you are at sea level, this was done at Florence at 70 degree ocean breeze temp.
we had gytr foam filter with airbox lid off and gytr carbon pipe
175 was too lean and popped all the time on deceleration. now that is gone.
that is with 21 extreme haulers 12 inches wide and 8 inch rims aired up to 2.5 pounds 8 paddles on mild to rough sand.
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The surest way to learn, is the hard way. And we're sure learning hard.
MOTTO: ) Don't Automatically Believe Everything You Read 2) Always "Explore The Opposite" 3) Never Fear Failure
4) When in Doubt, Go For It !! 5) Never Put Limits On Your Imagination 6) Spill the beans 7) Let the cats out of the bag. www.eskimo.com/~daddog/index.htm
yeh i really does help, I've also found that these carbs are fairley easy to work on as each day goes by i'm finding more and more good things about the yfz 450 I'll get the 45 pilot can i ride until they come in i don't think my dealer will have them for a few days friday is when i should get them
dude try a 48 ppilot and a 175 main and the needle on #4
you will haul.
Nice thing is you can try all kinds of jets and they all run pretty good.
except the stock ones, they pop and backfire all day.
__________________
The surest way to learn, is the hard way. And we're sure learning hard.
MOTTO: ) Don't Automatically Believe Everything You Read 2) Always "Explore The Opposite" 3) Never Fear Failure
4) When in Doubt, Go For It !! 5) Never Put Limits On Your Imagination 6) Spill the beans 7) Let the cats out of the bag. www.eskimo.com/~daddog/index.htm
Daddog, with the 48 pilot where should the mixture screw be?
1 turn maybe?
I am at 1500-2000ft, 85-95 degrees and am currently running lid off, baffle out, and cam mod; with 168 main, 45 pilot, GTYR (YZ) Needle on 4th clip, and 2 turns. Seems to run good and I spanked the crap out of everything at Dumont on Tuesday but I am going to be putting the K&N on soon and am not sure what to do. Also the temps will be dropping to 70-80 degrees here soon.
i've just received my pilot jet (thank god) but its a 48 however i still put it in, the popping has dramaticley decreased to next to nothing and i can go from idle to WOT a lot better but it still stumbles a little but just not as bad, the only one problem is if i go up to through the rev range in idle slowly it backfiree a bit in the higher rev range, could this indicate anything?
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04 YFZ 450
FMF Ti4 & Power Bomb, Vortex X10 CDI, Pro Design kill switch & filter kit with airbox lid off, GYT-R Jets set at 175 main clip position #5 45 pilot, AC nerf bars and YZ cam
ITP holeshots to be mounted on Douglas beadlocks soon.
temp is about 18*C at sea level i think my main is 168 but am not to sure what should it be
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04 YFZ 450
FMF Ti4 & Power Bomb, Vortex X10 CDI, Pro Design kill switch & filter kit with airbox lid off, GYT-R Jets set at 175 main clip position #5 45 pilot, AC nerf bars and YZ cam
ITP holeshots to be mounted on Douglas beadlocks soon.
Seems to run fine and accelerate great however upon decceleration I occasionly get some loud backfires.. thought someone shot a gun at me the first time it happened..
My qeustion is what do I need to change on my jetting to eliminate this??
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04 YFZ 450
GYT-R +1" A-Arms & rear DMI 1" billet spacers GYT-R Swing Arm Skid, Engine Skid, Front Bumper, K&N Filter,EHS Racing Lid, YZ Needle, Trail-Tech X bars and Clamp/Computer, Spider Grips / Wired- 22 guage, Motion Pro Twist Throttle, Jardine full exhaust
When I finished re-jetting to what I mentioned and tried it with the air box on or with just the baffle out, it would sputter and not reach max rpms.. It wasn't until I pulled the baffle and removed the air box that I felt the engine start to sing.
Could it be just my air mixture screw or needle clip position? Would it mean that I am lean on my main if the backfire occurs when just down shifting and after 5 to 10 seconds from running at rpm while the engine is idling and I am coming to a stop?
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04 YFZ 450
GYT-R +1" A-Arms & rear DMI 1" billet spacers GYT-R Swing Arm Skid, Engine Skid, Front Bumper, K&N Filter,EHS Racing Lid, YZ Needle, Trail-Tech X bars and Clamp/Computer, Spider Grips / Wired- 22 guage, Motion Pro Twist Throttle, Jardine full exhaust
I can't believe the main is lean since if I either stick the baffle in or stick the lid on,, it will hardly run on the top end.. I have to have both removed for any type of smooth rpm.
It backfires after coasting for a 5 to 10 seconds with the throttle fully closed (idle position) and not all the time..just some times.. I would assume that I am lean in the low end???
Help ,, I don't want to cook this engine..
What exactly does the air mixture screw affect? What part of the Fuel delivery?
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04 YFZ 450
GYT-R +1" A-Arms & rear DMI 1" billet spacers GYT-R Swing Arm Skid, Engine Skid, Front Bumper, K&N Filter,EHS Racing Lid, YZ Needle, Trail-Tech X bars and Clamp/Computer, Spider Grips / Wired- 22 guage, Motion Pro Twist Throttle, Jardine full exhaust
I've been reviewing threads on thumpertalk.com and have concluded that it might be lean on the fuel mixture screw...
I also found this posted by one memeber.. any truth to it??
From the General Tuning manual found at Mikuni.com
4: Backfires in Exhaust
Note:
It is normal for many high performance exhaust systems to moderately backfire or pop when the throttle is closed from mid-to-high rpm. In fact, one should expect a well-tuned high performance engine to "pop" and "crackle" when the throttle is closed at high rpm.
The popping is a result of the air/fuel mixture becoming very lean when the throttle is closed and the engine is rotating well above idle speed. It is also necessary that the exhaust system have rather open mufflers.
Why This (normally) Happens:
1) When the throttle valve is in the idle position, fuel does not flow out of the main system (needle, needle jet, main jet). Fuel is only delivered to the engine by the pilot (idle) system.
2) The combined effect of the closed throttle and elevated engine rpm is to create a fairly strong vacuum in the intake manifold. This vacuum, in turn, causes a high air flow rate through the small gap formed by the throttle valve and carburetor throat.
3) Under these conditions the pilot (idle) system cannot deliver enough fuel to create a normal, combustible air/fuel ratio. The mixture becomes too lean to burn reliably in the combustion chamber. It gets sent into the exhaust system unburned and collects there.
4) When the odd firing of the lean mixture does occur, it is sent, still burning, into the exhaust system where it sometimes ignites the raw mixture that has collected ---- the exhaust then pops or backfires.
5) Completely stock Harleys do not do this until open-end mufflers, such as the popular Screamin' Eagle slip-ons, are installed. The exhaust must be both free-flowing and have an open exit for the popping to occur.
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04 YFZ 450
GYT-R +1" A-Arms & rear DMI 1" billet spacers GYT-R Swing Arm Skid, Engine Skid, Front Bumper, K&N Filter,EHS Racing Lid, YZ Needle, Trail-Tech X bars and Clamp/Computer, Spider Grips / Wired- 22 guage, Motion Pro Twist Throttle, Jardine full exhaust
I went to a 48 pilot and the popping went away. If the post above is correct then maybe I'm too rich on the pilot? Anyone else pop when letting off the throttle? I thought this was a bad thing and was happy it was gone.