raptor wont start - Yamaha ATV Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 06-16-2009, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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unhappy raptor wont start

i dont know what the problem is... everything was fine. i started it up and backed it off the truck then cut it off, went to crank it back up and it did nothing. first thing i did was check all my connections and grounds. everything looks good. when you turn the key on, the lights will cut on but when you hit the start it wont do anything. i tried unplugging everylittle thing thinking maybe a safty sensor went out but i didn't know which one so it was a trial and error sort of thing and nothing worked. i did some research on this site and found out that they are bad about blowing the starter relay, so i did like many other people are doing and did the ford relay swap. it still doesnt work. i even unplugged the wires down by the shifter for the neutral safty and reverse safty (im guessing thats what the 2 wires by the shifter are for). still nothing. also, if you take a screwdriver and touch the positive and the starter terminal it will turn over fine, just wont fire so its got to be somewhere between the switch and the relay

any ideas on what it could be? this is getting really frustrating. i just bought the thing saturday :( its a 2004 LE
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post #2 of 24 Old 06-17-2009, 07:23 AM
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I'd check all the wiring from the switch back to the relay, and since you've done the relay swap I'd recheck all the wiring there as well, also the contacts down in those switches can get dirty and not make good contact
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post #3 of 24 Old 06-17-2009, 08:13 AM
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The same thing has happen to me and the contacts down in the switches was very meddy cleaned it . No problems after that.

2001 Raptor Black and White- Renthal bars W/ Pro grips,FMF Q muffler ,Jet Kit KN Airfilter ,wesco piston,A-arm guards, frame guards, rear sprocket guard, Yam front bumper plus rear grab bar, Head light protectors,engine frame guards,coolant guard ,maxxis razor 2 Tires and black IMS bead lock rims Gyt-R hand guards -yamaha shock covers
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post #4 of 24 Old 06-17-2009, 09:10 AM
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How did you hook the ford relay up. Did you go by my write up and still used the factory yamaha starter relay to triger the ford relay or did you chop the factory yamaha wiring harness plug and wire it directly to the ford relay?

03 Limited Edition Raptor Hot Rods 720cc Stroker, Megacycle x-4 cam, Sparks 6X Big Core Exhaust, 35mm Keihin FCR's.

97 Yamaha Banshee - F.A.S.T. Dune Ported 4mill Stroker, CPI Pipes, Keihin PWK33's, Direct Drive Lockup,
158 main jets, CEL Needles on the middle clip, 45 Pilots.
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post #5 of 24 Old 06-17-2009, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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How did you hook the ford relay up. Did you go by my write up and still used the factory yamaha starter relay to triger the ford relay or did you chop the factory yamaha wiring harness plug and wire it directly to the ford relay?
i fiqured my stock relay was bad so i just bought a ford one. i hooked it up by running the small red wire with the positive main battary terminal on the positive side of the relay. i then took the yellow/black wire and ran it to the S termanal. the Blue/blk wire i mounted to the bolt that i used to mount the relay to the airbox. does this sound ok?

I also took the switch apart last night and everything seemed to be ok. i didn't see any mud or anything in there but i didnt take it apart all the way down to the start button. i just pulled the little brass plate off and looked down in there.

now there is also 2 wires that run down by the shifter, i pulled them off thinking it it would bypass some sort of safty thing. should i put these back on? one looked like a wire going to a terminal but when i pulled it off it felt more like a hose?
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post #6 of 24 Old 06-17-2009, 03:19 PM
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do you still have the park brake and clutch sensor hooked up. To buy pass those you unplug them. Then on the raptors wiring harness you plug the 2 bullit conectors into each other.

That bypasses the parking brake rev limiter, and the clutch safety start switch. Those wires down by the shifter wont affect anything. They are for the neutral and reverse indicator lights.

What happens if you turn the key on and use a jumper wire and arc the neg terminal of the battery to the metal ford relay bracket. It should crank when you do that. With the key on is should start.

josh

03 Limited Edition Raptor Hot Rods 720cc Stroker, Megacycle x-4 cam, Sparks 6X Big Core Exhaust, 35mm Keihin FCR's.

97 Yamaha Banshee - F.A.S.T. Dune Ported 4mill Stroker, CPI Pipes, Keihin PWK33's, Direct Drive Lockup,
158 main jets, CEL Needles on the middle clip, 45 Pilots.
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post #7 of 24 Old 06-17-2009, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommygunn View Post
i fiqured my stock relay was bad so i just bought a ford one. i hooked it up by running the small red wire with the positive main battary terminal on the positive side of the relay. i then took the yellow/black wire and ran it to the S termanal. the Blue/blk wire i mounted to the bolt that i used to mount the relay to the airbox. does this sound ok?
Yea that sound right.

03 Limited Edition Raptor Hot Rods 720cc Stroker, Megacycle x-4 cam, Sparks 6X Big Core Exhaust, 35mm Keihin FCR's.

97 Yamaha Banshee - F.A.S.T. Dune Ported 4mill Stroker, CPI Pipes, Keihin PWK33's, Direct Drive Lockup,
158 main jets, CEL Needles on the middle clip, 45 Pilots.
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post #8 of 24 Old 06-18-2009, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 03LimitedEditionRaptor View Post
do you still have the park brake and clutch sensor hooked up. To buy pass those you unplug them. Then on the raptors wiring harness you plug the 2 bullit conectors into each other.

That bypasses the parking brake rev limiter, and the clutch safety start switch. Those wires down by the shifter wont affect anything. They are for the neutral and reverse indicator lights.

What happens if you turn the key on and use a jumper wire and arc the neg terminal of the battery to the metal ford relay bracket. It should crank when you do that. With the key on is should start.

josh
I'll try that when i get home. i still don't know which connectors i am suppose to unplug and plug into each other.. where are they located?
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post #9 of 24 Old 06-18-2009, 08:07 AM
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Follow the clutch handle wires down to their connectors.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
06' Vmax 1200
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post #10 of 24 Old 06-18-2009, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Follow the clutch handle wires down to their connectors.

is it just one connector or 2? when i find them i just unplug both of them and plug them into each other?
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post #11 of 24 Old 06-18-2009, 12:31 PM
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ONe will plug into itself, the other won't if I remember correctly.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
06' Vmax 1200
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post #12 of 24 Old 06-18-2009, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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ok... i plugged the 2 wires into themselfs and still nothing. i also took a jumper wire and put it on the neg side of the relay and touched it to the mounting bolt. also went from bolt to neg side of battary. it still doesnt even do anything. its like theres no power at all. the only time the relay shows power is if you jump the positive to the starter post. could i have got the wrong relay?
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post #13 of 24 Old 06-19-2009, 08:25 AM
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Use your multimeter to test to see what kind of signal you are getting from your push button.

The button grounds the blue black wire to actuate the factory starter relay. A ford solenoid needs 12v+ to start.
You will have to use a relay to change the - signal of the button to a 12v+ signal.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
06' Vmax 1200
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post #14 of 24 Old 06-19-2009, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by diggerzmound View Post
Use your multimeter to test to see what kind of signal you are getting from your push button.

The button grounds the blue black wire to actuate the factory starter relay. A ford solenoid needs 12v+ to start.
You will have to use a relay to change the - signal of the button to a 12v+ signal.

now im lost... how do i do that?
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post #15 of 24 Old 06-19-2009, 09:46 AM
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Ohm meter, checks for a complete circuit . Put one lead on the neg battery terminal or a good ground and the other lead on the blue/black wire at the starter relay. When you push the button the meter should read 000 which means its a good path to ground. This means your button is working, and nothing is interrupting the signal.

But a Ford relay does not work on the negative-ground signal, it is looking for a positive-hot signal on the small post.

If you read 03's post you will see that is what he is doing with the factory starter relay. The factory relay uses a ground signal to send power to the the starter. 03 is sending the power to the small post on the Ford solenoid instead of the starter. This puts the heavy load on the solenoid instead of the factory relay. It also is still using the negative-grounding signal from the button to start the quad.

You cannot just hook the Ford Solenoid to the wire coming from the button. It needs a positive signal the button sends a negative-grounding.

You say you hooked the blu/blk wire to a bolt? This is your signal wire from the button. It needs to be hooked to some relay that in turn sends a positive signal to the S terminal on the solenoid.

The only way you could use the ford solenoid without another relay is to wire up the battery and starter terminals to the large posts and put a jumper from the battery to the S terminal. Then you would have to mount the solenoid so the case is not grounded, and use the blu/blk wire as a ground for the case. You would have to find a way to mount the solenoid so it is not touching metal or the frame and then attach the blu/blk to the case of the solenoid.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
06' Vmax 1200

Last edited by diggerzmound; 06-19-2009 at 09:54 AM.
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post #16 of 24 Old 06-19-2009, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Ohm meter, checks for a complete circuit . Put one lead on the neg battery terminal or a good ground and the other lead on the blue/black wire at the starter relay. When you push the button the meter should read 000 which means its a good path to ground. This means your button is working, and nothing is interrupting the signal.

But a Ford relay does not work on the negative-ground signal, it is looking for a positive-hot signal on the small post.

If you read 03's post you will see that is what he is doing with the factory starter relay. The factory relay uses a ground signal to send power to the the starter. 03 is sending the power to the small post on the Ford solenoid instead of the starter. This puts the heavy load on the solenoid instead of the factory relay. It also is still using the negative-grounding signal from the button to start the quad.

You cannot just hook the Ford Solenoid to the wire coming from the button. It needs a positive signal the button sends a negative-grounding.

You say you hooked the blu/blk wire to a bolt? This is your signal wire from the button. It needs to be hooked to some relay that in turn sends a positive signal to the S terminal on the solenoid.

The only way you could use the ford solenoid without another relay is to wire up the battery and starter terminals to the large posts and put a jumper from the battery to the S terminal. Then you would have to mount the solenoid so the case is not grounded, and use the blu/blk wire as a ground for the case. You would have to find a way to mount the solenoid so it is not touching metal or the frame and then attach the blu/blk to the case of the solenoid.
this is sort of like what i did. i have the relay mounted to the plastic. no metal or anything is touching it. the blk/blu wire is going to the bolt that holds the relay to the plastic thinking this would ground the relay and cause it to work with i press the button. my small red wire coming from the harness and the big red wire coming from the battery both go to the + side of the relay. so i need to make another wire that goes from the battary to the S terminal? does the small red wire coming from the harness still go to the + side?

thanks for helping me get though this...hopefully its something simple
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post #17 of 24 Old 06-19-2009, 11:51 AM
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I am not sure, but I think the small red wire is power for other systems on the quad. You will need to have power at the S terminal all the time.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
06' Vmax 1200
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post #18 of 24 Old 06-19-2009, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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I am not sure, but I think the small red wire is power for other systems on the quad. You will need to have power at the S terminal all the time.

ok.. let me try that tonight and ill see what it does.. as of right now, the only wire going to the S terminal is the yellow/black. should i keep that one there?
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post #19 of 24 Old 06-19-2009, 03:26 PM
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Have you performed all of the steps in the manual to make sure its not something obvious?

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
06' Vmax 1200
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post #20 of 24 Old 06-20-2009, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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ok, i took a jumper wire and ran it from the positive side of the battary to the S terminal. hit the start button and it turns over fine now but still wont fire. im guessing the yellow/black wire needs to go somewhere else? right now its on the s terminal and i have tried it on the other ones too but still nothing
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