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660 Sputtering and almost dying at wide open throttle

This is a discussion on 660 Sputtering and almost dying at wide open throttle within the Yamaha YFM660R Raptor (2001-2005) forums, part of the Performance /Technical category; ive got a 2001 raptor with a +1mm 11.1 piston, full trinity exhaust, and a stage 1 hotcams cam, i also have stiffer valves springs ...


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Old 02-26-2008, 02:04 AM   #1
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Default 660 Sputtering and almost dying at wide open throttle

ive got a 2001 raptor with a +1mm 11.1 piston, full trinity exhaust, and a stage 1 hotcams cam, i also have stiffer valves springs in case i ever wanted to drop in a stage 2 cam. The fourwheeler idles and runs fine until i pin the throttle all the way in then the fourwheeler either spits and sputters or tries to go completly dead( or sometimes both) until i pull in the clutch and rev on it. Ive been all over the place with jets 165 all the way to 200 i even tried stock jets to see if it still sputtered same thing and yeah the pippes were glowing after about 10 seconds. Are the valve springs possibly to much for the stage one cam( thats what someone else suggested. but i dont believe that to be the case) so any advice would be greatly appreciated. ive got to ride the fourwheeler maybe an hour afer putting all this money and time into i would like to really get out there and enjoy it. Thanks Again for any advice
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2001 Raptor 673
+1mm wiseco 11.1 piston
Hotcams stage 1 intake cam
trinty stage 4 exhaust
sparxx coil and cdi box
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Old 02-26-2008, 07:20 AM   #2
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Check the the carb slide springs. I had one break on me. That was how mine ran. I also run the hd valve springs with a stage 1 cam with no problems.
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:51 AM   #3
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my springs arent broke, but i did clip off about 2 to 3 coils (less than half an inch) cause i read in another forum that clipping the springs would make the fourwheeler rev quicker due to less stiffer springs. i also heard that you can use 2005 model springs as they came shorter from factory . any truth in either of these? but i dont think either would affect WOT with less pressure on the needle if anything i would think it wouldnt idle right. also my buddies 660 is heck to start and hes got a full scopion exhaust k&n with no lid and im thinkin we put 145/150 mains but mine no matter how cold it is fires right up without even using the choke. also could any suggest what clip position i run my needles ? right now i have stock needles but i think i might have some dynojet needles layin around somewhere. as well as where i should run my air/fuel mixture screw tried it at 3 now i believe i have it at 3 1/4?
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sparxx coil and cdi box
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:59 PM   #4
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It is not the valve springs, it is either carburation or ignition. First things first put a new plug in. I have heard of problems with the choke plunger before. You might check that. Also double check your parking brake sensor.

Clean your carbs again and use fresh fuel.
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:43 PM   #5
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ok ill tear down the carbs again and cleam them i could probably do that with my eye closed ive had to tear them down so much. ill check the floats while im at it too but i borowed my nephews carbs off his running four wheeler and put my jets in them and it still does the same thing. ill also try borrowing ihs coil just to eliminate that since i know his is working i went back to my stock cdi box no change there either and i had a new high output stator put in when i had all my work done to it so i dont think thats it. and before i done everything to the motor i done away with my parking brake and sensors and it ran fine so thats not a factor. im gonna go ahead and pick up some new slide springs while im at it to just to make sure. keep the suggestions coming im greatful for any advice
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sparxx coil and cdi box
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:45 PM   #6
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could it be a timing issue?
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sparxx coil and cdi box
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:29 PM   #7
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Timing is set solid there is no changing the ignition timing.

The stator is more likely to fail then anything else in the ignition system. A quick test of the stator is to unplug the voltage regulator and see if that fixes it.

Make sure your petcock it flowing full stream.
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:09 AM   #8
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Quote: Originally Posted by diggerzmound View Post
Timing is set solid there is no changing the ignition timing.

The stator is more likely to fail then anything else in the ignition system. A quick test of the stator is to unplug the voltage regulator and see if that fixes it.

Make sure your petcock it flowing full stream.

He said your petcock. hehehehehe
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:59 PM   #9
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Are you running lid/no lid, did you completely remove the air box (highly recommended if you didn't, unless there is a lot of water in the area)?

The stock needles suck. If they are your only choice run them on the 4th clip and put a 170- 175 main with 25 pilots and air fuel at 2 1/4 - 2 3/4.

I don't know the taper on the dynojet needle but try clip 3 and use a 160-165 main.

What kind of fuel are you running?
Is this thing ported?

Also, if you are running stock valves don't run heavier springs they will cup/ break and make a mess....they are a soft metal.

Last edited by orangeforce; 02-27-2008 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:30 PM   #10
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yeah im running no lid afraid to remove my airbox as i do like to ride in water from time to time creeks and rivers so aint like im puttin around in mudholes.

im pretty sure i have some dynojet needles ill have to hunt them up though, but if i dont any recomendations? GYTR?

Im running 93 octane and i told the shop to port and poish the head but they didnt said they wernt told to but there thieves anyway fro you who live in the nort georgia area dont use Kirks Cycle Shop
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sparxx coil and cdi box
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:13 PM   #11
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If you use the GYTR set it up like the dynojet...clip 2 or 3. The GYTR needle likes to get to rich in the midrange.
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Old 02-29-2008, 11:17 PM   #12
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2nd or 3rd from the top right? just wanted to double check
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:55 PM   #13
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Quote: Originally Posted by iceman_12_18_87 View Post
2nd or 3rd from the top right? just wanted to double check
Yes. Start counting from the end the clips go on, not from the pointed end.
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:39 PM   #14
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Default I see you found bluetraxx

If you have ck'd averything and have the same problem, try putting the lid on and see what it runs like
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:16 PM   #15
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MORE PROBLEMS NOW!! it warmed up a bit today and i had all my parts in so i decided to take the advice given on here and try to get this thing fixed. letting my nephew borrow my battery so i hook some jumper cables up fire it up turn the choke off and it idles fine i let it warm up and give it some gas bout quarter throttle and now it will rev momentarily then cut off almost die and im still holding the throttle then after almost dying it will start reving again and just do the same thing over and over again. ao i pull the carbs anyway put my dynojet needles at clip 3 put my 25 pilot jets in turned air mixture screws to 3 turns out reassemble fire it up and it doe the same thing mentioned hear. didnt get a chance to ride it to see if it was still cutting out at WOT. oh and i also unplugged my voltage regulator to see if that fixed it but it didnt help. the gas did smell a little old but ive ran it on old gas before and it didnt do anything like that regardless tomm. im draining the old gas and putting my battery back on it and my aftermarket cdi box because it didnt do have this problem when i had the aftermarket cdi box on it. any other suggestions? i know its getting gas its like it momentarily loosing fire but its not a skip if it is its a very very bad one never heard something skip and do this
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Hotcams stage 1 intake cam
trinty stage 4 exhaust
sparxx coil and cdi box
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:23 AM   #16
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I would try it again with the battery installed.

never jump it with a running vehicle.
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94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:56 PM   #17
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well when i got home today i put my battery back on. crunk it let it warm up gave it about a quarter throttle it revved a second then almost died then revved up again. i dont know what to do ive got a new coil but ima jack my nephews tomm. just to rule it out. if thats not it i dont know where to turn. anymore advice?
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:19 AM   #18
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Put stock slider springs back in, for one... go back to basics. May not help, but won't hurt. The sliders are vacuum operated, less spring pressure means it's running much richer than it should at low vacuum (WOT). Sounds like it could be the culprit.

And don't believe everything you read in forums (even me!)... Many times ppl put in what they THINK is correct when often it's just plain wrong... (ok, NEVER me, lol)

Running with a stuck choke plunger will make for rough idle and a little sputtering at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, but great at WOT... This one I know cuz i ran that way, then adjusted my needles to overcome the rich mid throttle... until i found out my choke was stuck on. Ran great except for the Harley idle sound. Then I fixed my choke, returned the needles back to where they were, all good.
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Old 03-15-2008, 03:40 PM   #19
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well come find out i have had the dynojets in it thought i had put stock ones back in it but now i remember that i had put stockers back in and it didnt help so i went back to the dynojets and yeah ill have to order some springs but i had also already had them clipped before this new problem arose
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sparxx coil and cdi box
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:48 PM   #20
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think im just gonna start from scratch and buy some carbs on ebay and go from there.
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