Break-in period after rebuild? - Yamaha ATV Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 05-21-2007, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Break-in period after rebuild?

Just got the raptor back together and running. Whats the normal break in period that i should follow? I had to put a new piston, rings, one way, cam chain etc....dont really want to screw myself right out of the gate now that its running again.
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post #2 of 26 Old 05-21-2007, 09:46 PM
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Take it out and beat it up. What you want to avoid is cruising. Accelerate and decelerate constantly for the first few hours. You want to get pressure on both sides of the rings often initially. Other than that ride it normally. This is how I'd do it.
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post #3 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project20v
Take it out and beat it up. What you want to avoid is cruising. Accelerate and decelerate constantly for the first few hours. You want to get pressure on both sides of the rings often initially. Other than that ride it normally. This is how I'd do it.
i would never do that on a fresh motor. you should run 5-10 hrs of easy accerating and deceleration and mid range rpm. you should not go WOT at all within the break in period

02 raptor 660
itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 08:13 AM
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I do break-in like motorhead says, take it out and ride it with varying RPM's accelerating and decelerating, just never let the motor rev into the upper RPM's for more then a second.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
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post #5 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 11:17 AM
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Lol, 5-10 hours can be a WHOLE season for some of us. I had the same problem with my sandrail after I rebuilt it. Just bit the bullet and took it easy for the first few trips to the desert. Don't want to ruin all the hard work you've just accomplished! After the break-in you can enjoy it that much longer.

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'01 Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 400ex, piped, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'02 400ex, DiamondJ +3 A-arm widener, Lonestar anti-vibe
'02 660 Raptor, DiamondJ +2 A-Arm widener, YFZ shocks, LSR anti-vibe, piped, jetted, K&N
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post #6 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadmaniac
5-10 hours can be a WHOLE season for some of us.
true, i suppose but wether its an 1 hr or 5 hrs you shouldnt start it up for the first time and beat it. if you look at hotcams they will tell you an hr for their cams. the piston the proper break in is 10 hrs i belive. also after a few rides you may have to take the valve cover off and re torque the head

02 raptor 660
itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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post #7 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 02:26 PM
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Do a search on motoman. This is the break in procedure that I've always used and it's short. It really works. I've done this with all of my engine and believe in it.

02 Blue Kenz 686 with everything chrome or polished
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 02:32 PM
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This is the web site. Pretty informative. www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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post #9 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 03:12 PM
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Good topic guys.... I am about to install a new set of rings in my Rappy

2001 686 Raptor
Barker Duals
DG chrome Nerf Bars
FullBore plastic
+2 arms and +4 axle

Did I mention?
It's pretty fast

"Crashing Builds Character"
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post #10 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 08:12 PM
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I did it this way and she's been running like a champ for over a year.

04 Raptor 686R (Mine)
Wiseco 11:1, Falcon Knife Rod, Stg 1 HC, Alba Pipe, No Air Box, Epic w/Elkas, G-Force, T-Dub+2...
04 Raptor 80r (Son's)
Web Cam, Big Gun pipe, K&N, Hi-Perf CDI
07 250ex(Wife's)
Stock for now
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post #11 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 08:18 PM
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its deffinatly up to the person who is building but i offer one last thing to think about and that is that breaking it in easy has been done for the past 50-60 yrs and it works. i understand that materials and quality has changed but the concept is still there. and one year of riding is not enough to show the affects of inproper break in. for example on a car you would not see the affect until 150,000 + miles

02 raptor 660
itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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post #12 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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OK so after reading the info from motoman i must say he does make a pretty strong argument. Still a little on the side of caution but his logic makes sense so what the hell why not do it his way(besides i am hoping to be running strong for the long weekend). That is unless anyone else can sit here and mae what he says sound completely wrong.....
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post #13 of 26 Old 05-22-2007, 10:53 PM
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If you want to go against the grain and follow what someone opinion is rather then fact go to that sight. Simple as that.

1998 Warrior. JE 366cc, Mega .450", HD TI valve springs, DR P&P head, DR flywheel, KW SS Oversized valves, TM36-68 Carb, Dyna DFS7P, HD Barnett clutch springs, Earl's custom oil cooler/big bear setup. AC Bumpers, Holeshot's with .190 rims.
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post #14 of 26 Old 05-23-2007, 08:40 AM
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http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
thats more my style

02 raptor 660
itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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post #15 of 26 Old 05-23-2007, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonp
If you want to go against the grain and follow what someone opinion is rather then fact go to that sight. Simple as that.
actually, if you read the motoman write up, it is based on fact, not opinion
and it works!

look at the photos of the pistons on the site, very large difference

just because something has "been done that way all along" does not make it right!
keep an open mind grasshopper!

~Hefe~
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post #16 of 26 Old 05-23-2007, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hefe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonp
If you want to go against the grain and follow what someone opinion is rather then fact go to that sight. Simple as that.
actually, if you read the motoman write up, it is based on fact, not opinion
and it works!

look at the photos of the pistons on the site, very large difference

just because something has "been done that way all along" does not make it right!
keep an open mind grasshopper!
I've read most of the junk that he writes on his site. If you want to believe it's fact go ahead... You'll just be going against most all SAE standards. . . Most people believe what he writes because they don't really know any better.

1998 Warrior. JE 366cc, Mega .450", HD TI valve springs, DR P&P head, DR flywheel, KW SS Oversized valves, TM36-68 Carb, Dyna DFS7P, HD Barnett clutch springs, Earl's custom oil cooler/big bear setup. AC Bumpers, Holeshot's with .190 rims.
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post #17 of 26 Old 05-24-2007, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonp

I've read most of the junk that he writes on his site. If you want to believe it's fact go ahead... You'll just be going against most all SAE standards. . . Most people believe what he writes because they don't really know any better.
right on!!!!

02 raptor 660
itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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post #18 of 26 Old 05-24-2007, 08:24 AM
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I've been around all types of engines for years and this does work. Ya an easy break in works too, but I personally feel this is better. I did this with my raptor and everyone I know that has seen and or ridden it can't beleive it's just a 686. I dont think you'd notice any big differnece on a low horsepower application but when it comes to trying to get everything out of an engine it's the way to go. You dont see top fuel cars doing an easy break in.

02 Blue Kenz 686 with everything chrome or polished
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post #19 of 26 Old 05-24-2007, 08:29 AM
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I get a kick out of you "company" guys... You take what the manual says as the gospel truth. If you read either of the articles that were mentioned, they are both supported by very plausible concepts. You actual have to take the time to read and understand these concepts.

JasonP you must check out SAE standard #2004-01-2917

From the handbook of SAE standards, "The key factor affecting ring wear is engine brake mean effective pressure (BMEP). Ring wear behavior is repeatable for a given engine type and between two different engine designs. Cylinder bore wear is dominated by initial break-in," sounds A LOT like the last link that was shared..

I've seen the effects of a super easy break-in. after 3 tanks of near idle conditions we pulled the top end of the quad and the cylinder was shiny for the most part but the deeper honing marks were still evident. 6 months later you could still see the hone marks. WHy? I have a suspicion it has something to do with break-in and BMEP during this period.

01' Raptor 720, Stage 2, FCR'd
97' 250 Vitos Blaster
06' Rhino 450
94' Banshee T-5's, Vforce, ported, Cool Head, 2-1
06' Wolverine 450 - Stock!
06' LTZ 440
94' Vmax4 750, 96' 600 MountainMax
06' Vmax 1200
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post #20 of 26 Old 05-24-2007, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Most people believe what he writes because they don't really know any better.
I was a mechanic for YEARS, till I got sick of it
I have test driven more vehicles than you have ridden in
I worked for Yamaha Corp as a "demo rider" (back in the days of the Seca II) (yes kids.. I am old)
I have test driven everything from Corvettes to Chevettes
believe me..
the manufacturers say easy break in because they worry about early engine failure
not optimum HP
they could care less how much compression we have
the manufacturers warranty is a numbers game, they want us to get through that warranty period as smoothly as possible
that is how they make their money
if they told us to beat the hell out of our bikes
then you would get a good percent of kids who would do JUST THAT
they would bounce them off the rev limiter right away
that is not the Motoman theory

seriously, read it
it makes sense
anyone with real knowledge on how engines work should be able to comprehend the theory

so, yes..
I DO know better!

~Hefe~
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