water pump leak - Yamaha ATV Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-20-2007, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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water pump leak

got a leak coming out of the bottom of the water pump out of the small hole at the very bottom. is there supposed to be a hole there? is there a check valve in there or something? i just thought i would ask before i drained all my coolent

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post #2 of 9 Old 05-20-2007, 06:57 PM
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That is called the "weep" hole, and it allows any fluid that gets past the seal on the water pump shaft to exit the pump. If you are seeing more than a drop or two, it probably means that the water pump's shaft seal is leaking. Replacement will likely be necessary.

The seal MAY be available alone. It is Yamaha part number 11H-12438-10-00.SEAL, MECHANICAL. Moto-services.net shows it available for about $20, or check with your dealer. You probably should replace the oil seal at the same time, just to make sure that you never leak any coolant into your block. It's - 93101-12173-00, OIL SEAL


It doesn't look like too tough a job, but I haven't done it myself, so can't tell you for sure.

Good luck!

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post #3 of 9 Old 05-20-2007, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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yea i took it apart right before i saw ur post and its very easy i think 4 parts all together. as long as you have snap ring plyers.

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itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-20-2007, 11:30 PM
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Mind has dripped a few times. I would just go riding for a day and it would quit. Seems letting it sit over the winter caused it. after the first ride it would quit.

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post #5 of 9 Old 05-21-2007, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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yea im just gonna replace the seals its easy work.

02 raptor 660
itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-21-2007, 11:37 AM
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When mine went bad, the parts guy said I had to replace the aluminum over and the whole assembly! It was only $40 so I did it, but I am sure you can get just the seals if you wanted to look harder.

2007 Blue/White Raptor SE
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-21-2007, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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yea to change the seals takes about 10 minutes and thats it so im just gonna do that it was only 10 or 15 bucks

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post #8 of 9 Old 05-21-2007, 02:48 PM
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Make sure to check the shaft where the seals rub. If it's rough you need to smooth it up with some VERY fine grit sandpaper or crocus cloth and then clean it thourougly before assembly. Else, the leak will visit you again shortly!

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'01 Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 400ex, piped, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'02 400ex, DiamondJ +3 A-arm widener, Lonestar anti-vibe
'02 660 Raptor, DiamondJ +2 A-Arm widener, YFZ shocks, LSR anti-vibe, piped, jetted, K&N
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-25-2007, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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well i just got everything fixed and it was a major pain in the ass. the water seal is a press fit and you have to get that out to change the oil seal. just thought i would let everyone know. and if you are goin to change a seal just change them all it will save you alot of time

02 raptor 660
itp gncc rears, fmf powerbomb header, fmf ti-4 s/o wiseco 11:1 piston, hotcams stage 2 cam with springs, dynatech programable ignition, dial a jet atomizers, uni air filter, wicekd arms +2, 450 shocks, ims roll shifter
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