|08-29-2003, 07:59 AM||#1|
Join Date: May 2003
how to bleed brake lines
how do you bleed the front and rear brake lines?
04 YFZ 450
FMF Ti4 & Power Bomb, Vortex X10 CDI, Pro Design kill switch & filter kit with airbox lid off, GYT-R Jets set at 175 main clip position #5 45 pilot, AC nerf bars and YZ cam
ITP holeshots to be mounted on Douglas beadlocks soon.
|08-29-2003, 09:37 AM||#3|
Join Date: Jun 2003
Buy one of them 10 dollar kits. Its basically a bottle, with a tube that connects to the bleeder which creates an air tight seal. As you pump the breaks you will see the fluid transfer to the bottle with most likely air bubles in it. Eventually as you pump the brakes it will become solid fluid ala no bubbles and the line will tighten up. Then tighten the bleeder, fill your resevoir and your allset. Dont forget to keep the resevior full as you bleed them, dont let it get empty or your starting from scratch.
'04 YFZ450, Cam Mod, No-Lid, Filter, K&N/Outer, Relocator, Yoshi Full, CDI, Needle, 45, 168, 3.5, Zip, Nerfs, Guards, Skids, A/C Bumper, +1 Douglass w/ Maxxis Razor 2, etc ..
|08-30-2003, 10:47 AM||#4|
Join Date: Jan 2003
remove the lid from themaster cyclinder.
crack open the right front bleeder screw.
deink a bevrage of your choise while keeping an eye on the fluid level on the master cyclinder and adding fluid when needed,
when your done with the bevrage, or in 5 minutes, whichever comes first, close the bleeder screw.
repeat for the other front bleeder line.
do the same for the rear.
its called gravity bleeding. and since you dont have any kind of a proportioning valve, metering valve, or an ABS module, there is no need to use the old school pump and bleed method.
The Original Michrider
( "Michriders", Coined by R4Race)
Tug Hill Veteran '03, '04
"The Lord Helps Me, So I Will Not Be Ashamed. I Will Be Determined. And I Know I Will Not Be Disgraced" ~ Isaiah 50:7
" And What We Have Is Much More Than They Can See" ~ DeLaSoul
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