Ninja Warrior Twin 500cc Build - Yamaha ATV Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-10-2010, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ninja Warrior Twin 500cc Build

New to BlueTraxx, just wanted to say hello to the greatest Yamaha ATV forum known to man, I cannot tell you how many times I have referrenced this site with 'how to' questions or 'DIY' stuff, thanks to all its members!

I would like to post up pics of the build but need 3 or more posts!
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-10-2010, 02:25 PM
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Free bump for ya :). I'm sure others won't mind if u bumped urself a couple tmes. I'm sure they are all as eager as me to see this build!
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-10-2010, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the free bump.... I may just do that...
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-10-2010, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I give in, I need some thoughts on this build!
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-10-2010, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I started off with my 2001 Warrior which is pretty much bone stock other than exhaust. The donor bike was a 1993 EX500 bought from craigslist for $300 running and driving, no title so it was a perfect match.

Here is the build:
I started by removing some of the front mid and lower frame rails, this took alot of strength out so I put in some 1/4x4 flat bar to help. I know it weighs alot but strength is key!

Welding the A-Arm upper supports together left to right

Here is a pic after the down bars were cut out and the top backbone's were cut

Front view

Here is the end result of the front motor mounts and frame restructure

Rear motor mounts made from the 1/4" flat bar

To reconnect the upper front and rear frame I used 7/8th solid round bar ran throught the front frame. The frame is almost all 1" round pipe so the 7/8ths fit well. The rails are some thick 3/4" pipe saddled over the old upper frame rails with 5/32nd holes all the way through the 7/8ths, this is where a pin will be placed to hold the rails on but will not be holding any force since everything is saddled on the 7/8ths round bar (removable rails incase the motor blows, I dont want to have to cut the damn thing out!)

For the rear I used the 7/8ths again and old upper frame rail slid over the 7/8ths, 5/32nd holes and pins with 1/4" plate gussets

As far as the plastics go, the rear did need about 1" trimmed off at the very front, to clear the rear top frame rails, and the very bottom of the seat needed trimmed about 3/4", just pulled the staples, cut, and restapled and it turned out great!

The front needed 2 holes drilled for the front frame rails, I left the rails long on purpose for a possible headlight mount?

The radiator is still in the works, I cut out the upper bars to the bumper and I think this is a good spot for it, I haven't put in any mounts or restrengthened this yet (hopefully I never smack something hard or bye bye radiator!) The fenders were trimmed a bit along with the hood to help make it look more stock.

I bought new sprockets for both front and rear, put a 50 in the back and found out its too big to run my skid plate and was only around 2" off the ground so I swapped hub's and taller tires from the wife's blaster for a test fit, will need to figure out the skid plate though...

Getting the sprockets straight was extremely easy with this motor

The EX500 uses dual CV carbs, a big pain if you modify the air box, I met a guy that ran one as a drag bike and used a similar set up made from PVC and cone filters, mine will run out each side just above case, I hope they arn't in the way of my legs, if so it will SUCK and I'll have to figure something out

The only thing left is to figure out the radiator, I want to make it fit somewhere nice, not look like a bike that was just thrown together and a gas tank. The carbs are gravity fed but I dont have alot of room ontop of the motor any more, but do have plenty infront of the battery, but this means I need a fuel pump. My dad took a look and said maybe a rat rod style KegTank where the stock headlight goes. I'm not sure yet.

Please let me know if you have any comments or questions, I build this bike from the ground up in house so know pretty much everything about it. - Thanks for looking! - Jon
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-13-2010, 12:02 PM
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What about getting a Clarke oversive tank and modifing the bottom so it will fit? and can you fit the radiator by the steering stem? I've seen that on other hybreads, if it doesn't fit maybe one that is a little smaller. Also if you hit the airfilters it looks like you maybe able to turn the pvc pipe so the elbows inwards so they touch that may give you a little maore room. Looks real good, wish it was mine!! I hope something I said helps. Also if the rear spocket height becomes an issue when riding I woud put a smaller back on and change the front sprocket to comansate for it then you can also put the skid back on

Last edited by elwood; 12-13-2010 at 12:05 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-16-2010, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Elwood, thanks for a reply, I was hoping for a bigger turn out with thoughts of the build, I guess this one is a BUST. I still love it though.

I looked up Clarke tanks and I don't think I could use one because of the upper frame rails are too high. Thanks for the idea though, I had not come across Clarke in the past.

Also if I go down with the rear sprocket I would need to go down with the front to help keep the speed down, but I bought the smallest one for the 500. I think I will be able to figure something out by cutting a relief where the sprocket is and add some 1/4" flat bar in the shape of a obtuse triangle to help it slide over the dirt and protect it from rocks.

I'm worried that the bike will overheat as it is and don't want to go with a smaller radiator, and have to keep in mind that the exhaust is already going to be cramped in there. Do you have any pictures of other builds? I have found a few but most are either 4 cylinder motors or some type of frankenstein setups with the radiator way up out the top of the steering stem or off some crazy braket sticking out the front. Makes me think of looking into the banshee setup, but I won't the stock plastics to fit without tons of cutting. thanks - Jon
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-17-2010, 09:50 AM
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i'm guessing you had ridden the warrior and ninja with their original engines in place? the ninja motor will rev to 12k, but it has no balls. the warrior about 8k, and plenty of balls. if it wasn't worn out. my warrior would spin the tires easily even in third. if i remember right, you have to powerbrake the ninja to even get it's tire to spin.
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-17-2010, 05:37 PM
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the ninja motor has 60hp and 31 lb's all about gearing, a ninja 500 motor is a side by side twin and doesn't weigh a lot more than a warrior motor. If the gearing is right i would think a warrior would be a lot faster with the ninja motor. very cool build by the way
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-17-2010, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by firechicken93 View Post
the ninja motor has 60hp and 31 lb's all about gearing, a ninja 500 motor is a side by side twin and doesn't weigh a lot more than a warrior motor. If the gearing is right i would think a warrior would be a lot faster with the ninja motor. very cool build by the way

Fire Chicken, thanks for the response, and I 100% agree its all about the gearing. As you can see in previous posts that I have geared the bike WAY down, not only that but my holeshots are WAY smaller than the stock EX rear tire. I know the bike makes all its power around 10K but is still friendly enough to lug around the woods or to let the wife drive. I would like to see that out of the MANY 4cyl 600cc+ builds and CR500/KX500 Warrior builds. I wouldnt be caught dead with my wife on something so small capable of 50mph in first.

Over all I think my only 'mistake' was chosing a motor that was water cooled, since I am trying to keep the look as stock as possible. But on the plus side, its nice to have a water cooled bike!
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post #11 of 12 Old 12-17-2010, 10:32 PM
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Yeah the water cooling will help alot on tight slow trail rides. And alot of the hybrids are not done for trail riding. most that i have seen are more for just the road, flattrack.

97 Warrior-366,JE 10.50:1,Mild P&P,Kimble White +1 valves,3 angle valve job,Kimble White HD springs & keeper,Stage 1 Hotcam,Edlebrock carb,Pro-design filter w/ adapter,Yoshimura RS-3 Full exhaust,Bigbear oil cooler,+2 ASR a arms,SS brake lines,+3 Lonestar swinger,Durablue +2+4
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-08-2011, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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I need some help with radiator ideas. I am not happy with the setup I have now. I was maybe thinking about running dirtbike radiators inside the fenders but worry about mud caking up on them. I'm at a loss right now and can't seem to figure it out, any thoughts? I don't want it to look stupid and want to try and retain as much of the stock plastics as I can, maybe like a 'shee setup or fab up a custom hood? Thanks!
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