2001 Yamaha Warrior valve question - Yamaha ATV Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-08-2008, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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2001 Yamaha Warrior valve question

I just bought my son a 01 warrior and it seems to run fine. But there sounds like to be some valve noise. What all tools is need to adjust these besides a feeler gage?
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-08-2008, 09:16 PM
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Does it have an after market header? An aftermarket header will reveal every noise in the motor, I don't think they are as thick as the stocker, if not its just Remove the front plastic and fuel tank and then its just the feeler guage and an allen wrench, large flat head screw driver for the timing caps on the flywheel cover, spark plug socket.

-2012 TTR230.
-2013 350 Raptor.
-2007 CRF50
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-12-2008, 10:29 PM
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Does this bike have the stock cam in it? I know when you run a performance cam with a higher valve lift you will hear more valve noise due to more valve train movement.

But, I would for sure open the valve covers and look around and see if there is anything that has broke or come loose. At the same time go ahead and adjust your valves it wont hurt if you do.

Intake 0.06-0.10 cold

Exhaust 0.16-0.20 cold

If do all of this and there is still valve noise, then we need to look at the two bearings that support the camshaft in the head. The inner bearing is a roller style bearing and the outer bearing is a ball style. If either of these bearings are getting bad, they will surly let you know with high heat and noise. The cam can be pull out of the head without removing the head.

If you do so, note the timing marks on the cam sprocket and also the cam sprocket bolt need to be torqued to 43 inch pounds. Be sure to use a strong magnet to remove the cam sprocket timing pin, the timing is behind the cam sprocket bolt and washer. Also the timing pin is very small and can be easily drop down the cam chain valley. Be careful and take your time on this step.

TW
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-18-2008, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I did exactly like the manual said. I aligned the T on the crankshaft and the and the line exactly. I put the intake at 0.06 and the exhaust at 0.16. GOt it all back together and started it up and it sound like a gaint sewing maching. It sounds horrible. What did I do wrong casue I know its not suppose to sound like that?
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-18-2008, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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oopps

Last edited by cokeman277296; 10-19-2008 at 01:12 PM.
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-19-2008, 07:12 PM
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Do you know if the cam is the stock cam? If it is then, it should run very quite. I know for a fact, if you run a higher performance cam other than the stock one you will hear more valve noise for sure due to more valve movement.

One of the biggest mistakes I see people do is install a high performance cam and do nothing to the valves. The stock valves springs will not handle the higher lift of a "hotter cam".

Are you sure that the valves are the problem? Did you check the cam support bearings?

2005 Yamaha 350 Raptor. Powroll 365 kit, 430 cam, 1mm over valves, custom intake, 111 race fuel. Not red neck built!
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-20-2008, 11:25 PM
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Tools you need:

4mm allen wrench ( to remove tank cover and whatnot )
10mm socket or gear wrench to finish removing gas tank.
5mm allen wrench to remove valve covers.
10mm again gear wrench preferably to loosen jamnut on rocker arm.
I believe a 4mm to tighten/loosen the adjuster that the jamnut is on.
You obviously already know you need feeler gauges for this job.
I think an 8 or 10mm socket/gear wrench again to remove side cover/pull starter.
and last but not least either a 17 or 19mm (think its 17) to turn the crank bolt to get your engine TDC.

All this is to the best of my knowledge I havent owned a warrior in a few years but this is what i can remember so far. Good luck. BTW I had a hotcam and when adjusted to their .004-.006 intake, .006-.008 exhaust settings, it was VERY noisy. Local engine builder told me .002-.003 int.......003-.004 exh. and it ran excellent.
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-21-2008, 07:30 AM
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Make sure you used the right feeler guages reading mm. I usually take the timeing cap off and the spark plug out and put your finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the motor CCW until the compression pops your finger off of the spark plug hole that way you know you are at Top Dead Center of the compression stroke, you will be able to see the mark on the flywheel through the hole or be very close, enough to line it up exactly, then you will be good to go adjusting the valves.

-2012 TTR230.
-2013 350 Raptor.
-2007 CRF50
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-26-2008, 10:20 AM
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Yeah make sure your on the right stroke TDC compression.
Make sure you have the correct feeler gauge. NOT .10" which you would have all sorts of clearance.
I would try .003-004" intake, .004-005" exhaust. Rotate the engine once and check again to verify.

1998 Warrior. JE 366cc, Mega .450", HD TI valve springs, DR P&P head, DR flywheel, KW SS Oversized valves, TM36-68 Carb, Dyna DFS7P, HD Barnett clutch springs, Earl's custom oil cooler/big bear setup. AC Bumpers, Holeshot's with .190 rims.
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-26-2008, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replys. I finally got it done and sounds alot better then it did.They where defintly in need of adjusting. Thanks again, or rather my son thanks you.
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